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1978 7060 powershift brake?

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Offroadnt View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Feb 2021
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1978 7060 powershift brake?
    Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 6:04pm
Hello everyone, we recently acquired a 7060 with the six speed powershift. 
Backstory...
We got it with a ranch and had no idea what and if anything was wrong with it. We got it running after changing the fuel, filters and getting the metering sleeve loosened up and attempted to move it, steering didn't work either and discovered a spool was installed backwards and an orfice disk was missing, fabricated a new plate and steering, brakes and hydraulics are 100% now Smile

So Attempting to move it we discovered we couldn't shift the range into any gear, it would just grind, had to stop the engine and restart in gear, then it would move slowly forward. Anyway it had no reverse and no 1st and second, 3rd was slow applying but would kill the engine and so would 4th, 5th and 6th. Checked all pressures and everything was within specs except brake pressure, it stayed at zero. Adjusted linkage, no change, pulled valve, dismantled, reassembled, used air pressure and check the plate movement of the clutch packs we could see and listened for leaks and everything seemed good. Interestingly the drums turned easily by hand and we stared the engine briefly and there was no dragging with the range in gear and it was easy to shift. So we reassembled everything and it was exactly the same as before. 

So I've split the tractor and pulled the powershift unit right out of it. What I've discovered so far is the six half inch bolts that bolt the 61T gear (70267719) to B1 clutch hub (70267754) were all sheared off. The rest looks pretty good so far, there may be some warped and discolored disks and spacers. 

Anyway, I cannot find the clutch brake, what am I missing? Logically I would think it would just apply three or four clutches simultaneously to act as a brake (similar to Case powershift) but it does have a dedicated transmission brake test port so how does this work? I've been back and forth through the service manual and parts book and cannot find any reference to the actual transmission brake components for the powershift. 

Can anybody help clear this up for me? I have to be missing something.

Thanks.
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Offroadnt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 6:09pm
PS, by "Kill the engine" in third, forth, fifth and sixth I mean in range gear with the brakes applied. Shifting with the range in neutral or park it seems good. Sixth was dragging (pulling the engine down a bit) before we did the valve, after it seemed good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 6:19pm
The transmission "brake" is the application of the reverse clutch and one of the forward clutches at the same time. Proper adjustment of the linkage is IMPERITIVE for the reverse clutch to have a long service life. To apply the trans brake, the clutch pedal must be pushed down into the "brake zone" which is close to the bottom of the pedal stroke. The trans brake shall not be used to stop forward motion of the tractor, which some people do, and this is a BAD thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 6:25pm
Unwritten rule: either reuse all the wave springs in a given clutch pack or replace them all in a given clutch pack. Mixing new wave springs with old flattened out wave springs can cause you trouble.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 7:40pm
Thank you very much! That's what I needed to know,I suspected as much as it makes sense.

I'll be tackling this again on Monday.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 8:30pm
Ever gear uses eitherA2 and B1 . The teeth on these clutch disks get worn and don't want to move on hubs, causing them not to want to take off in R -1-2 and 3. Might want to take a look at dish in A2 and C1.
Transmission brake applies about 400 PSI to C2 and B1.             MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 6:43am
Mack, what is the source of 400psi? Powershift system pressure is 200psi. How does the brake circuit work? Are there a couple of shuttle valves that transfer oil from the brake source to use these clutches? Do you have a diagram for the transmission shift circuit by any chance?

Just want to make sure I've covered everything before I put this tractor back together. Don't want to have to do this again.

Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 7:01am
System pressure is about 210 psi and brake pressure 40 psi.....typo.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 7:09am
Loctite those bolts that came loose and use new AGCO bolts. Be sure to replace all piston seals. Be sure to replace the three inner hub seals on the rear rotating clutch packs. Loctite and stake big nut on the front of transmission. Wrap front input shaft splines with thin layer of electrical tape to protect new shaft seal from being damaged when sliding it over the splines.  Clean, clean, clean valve body and use new gaskets.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 8:03am
I punched too many O's. 
When pedal is in brake position , inching spool opens a passage to C2 and B1 clutches. One of the plungers acts as a relief valve to lower pressure to 40 PSI.       MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 7:07am
Thanks guys, good advice. Sounds like I have a busy week, might not get back to it for a bit now.

I think I'll send the gear and hub in and get them surfaced, they are scored a bit. Shouldn't hurt to take a few thousands off should it?

Otherwise I should inspect it and arrange for parts any moment I get.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 7:10am
Most that I ever had I felt the damage was such that parts needed to be replaced. The improved parts have 7/16" bolts, not 3/8" bolts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 8:13am
I can't help on your issue, but hello there Mr. Offroadnt, from the unique name and location, from the old CTF.  Welcom.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 8:19pm
Hi Tbone95! Thank you, good to see you here.

Got an Allis or two yourself do you? We will probably sell this one, there seems to be a number of people interested in it.

This is actually a fascinating tractor, I didn't even know they had a powershift. It's almost twice as much work to get into the powershift compared to a '90 series Case but it has six speeds and appears to be heavier built.
The cab sure is tight though and a challange to get into and out of. Must be one of the first to use an electronic tach.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 8:37am
Originally posted by Offroadnt Offroadnt wrote:

Hi Tbone95! Thank you, good to see you here.

Got an Allis or two yourself do you? We will probably sell this one, there seems to be a number of people interested in it.

This is actually a fascinating tractor, I didn't even know they had a powershift. It's almost twice as much work to get into the powershift compared to a '90 series Case but it has six speeds and appears to be heavier built.
The cab sure is tight though and a challange to get into and out of. Must be one of the first to use an electronic tach.
I have one Allis, a 7045.  Mine is a power director, not a powershift.   I needed some HP, and it was hard not to chance $9000 for 150 HP.  Probably got another $5k in it during the first couple years.  Agreed on the cab, but it is nicely quiet in there once you get situated.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 2:05pm
Anybody know a good source for this stuff?

Allis Chalmers 7060 s/n 5641 parts

1  70265383   GASKET, strainer
1  70265314   GASKET, front
1  70267727   GASKET, transmission housing
1  70246926   SEAL
1  70267706   GASKET
4  70267398   RING, seal
10 70268367   PLATE, driving
13 70267408   SPRING, wave
2  70268794   PLATE, separator
3  70268853   PLATE, separator
1  70268711   RING, seal, inner
5  70269775   RING, seal, piston, inner
6  70270094   RING seal, piston, outer
2  70268041   RING, seal
1  70268038   RING, seal

Looks like it'll be very close to 5000CAD here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 2:09pm
Maybe a muffler as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 5:35pm
There is a seal/gasket kit under one PN that makes it easier for an overhaul. Usually at the bottom of the page.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 8:40pm
AGCO is your source
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 8:53pm
You will still need the piston rings seals as they don't come in gasket kit.            MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 10:04pm
Try p/n 70270012 for the overhaul gasket kit. I'm sure it used to include every single seal and gasket, unless AGCO changed that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2021 at 10:08pm
Those kits have the rubber lip seals for the pistons, but doesn't include the steel sealing rings.

Edited by Lynn Marshall - 24 Feb 2021 at 10:08pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2021 at 7:15am
70267717 would be for the three cast iron hook-type sealing rings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2021 at 3:27pm
Annnnd I'm back...

Ordered the part, got some used stuff but I have a small problem...

I ordered  70268367   PLATE, driving (2 req'd in A1 & B2 Housing; 5 req'd in A2 Housing) and it turns out I needed
  70269418   PLATE, DRIVING (B1 HOUSING) and/or
  70262987   PLATE, DRIVING (C2 HOUSING)

The service manual doesn't show three different driving plates, only two. Online parts shows three.

Question is can I just use  70268367 throughout? What is the actual difference besides the way the teeth are cutout? They seem identical otherwise.

I checked four times before making the order, I can't believe I still screwed it up.

Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2021 at 6:07pm
There are two different drive disc teeth. You mix them up and you are on your own. If A-C thought they could mix them, they wouldn't have made two styles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Offroadnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2021 at 7:44pm
Yeah, I know. Thought I'd ask anyway.

I'm not mixing them, just using all the same instead of the two different styles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2021 at 8:29am
I don't know why the Allis engineers used different friction plates in some of those clutch packs. They look to be the same except for the shape of the teeth. I will say, that the Allis service manual is very specific about the number of friction plates,the shape of the teeth, the thickness of the separator plates, piston thickness, and all the flyball dimensions with different flyball springs. Considering the amount of labor to overhaul that transmission,I wouldn't want to have to redo it because I used the wrong parts.

Edited by Lynn Marshall - 05 Mar 2021 at 8:30am
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