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1968 D15 seriesII rebuild |
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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![]() Our dads D15 developed a knock recently as well as low oil pressure if going down a hill. Charlie pulled it in the shop yesterday and we began to diagnose its issue. He had checked the compression last week and the 2 middle cylinders were around 15 lbs lower than 1 and 4. 132,116,117,134 if I remember correctly. So we went after the oil pressure issue first by dropping the pan. Not good news, the sump pickup was laying in the pan. Unsure how it had come loose from pickup tube as the keeper is still attached. No shavings in the pan which was good news. So that explains the drop in oil pressure going down hill. Engine has never been apart and has been a really good and reliable tractor. Pulled the head to check cylinders only finding a slight ring groove which is normal. Pulled the rod caps and there was some wear but no scouring until we got number 4 piston out. Bearing had some damage but the crank wasn’t gouged. Not taking any chances, will be pulling the crank out to have a look at it. Can’t feel any scouring with a finger but will need to mic it for rebuild kit anyway and possible repair. Haven’t pulled the mains off yet. Looking for suggestions of a good quality rebuild kit, sleeves, pistons, rings, gasket kit. |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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tbran ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3532 |
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This is a G160 since do not see wires for headlights.. sources for kits are limited to one or two as it is a rather rare engine. sn 9001 and up - rods do not have small end clamp type pin retainer but rather full floating wrist pins. Just make sure get quotes on G160 engine. I am assuming the cotter pin cam out of the floating pick up. Have seen this once before. Two things to check here that are unique to this series. Inspect the pin in the end of the cam shaft at rear that drives the pump , if it has wear and is loose it will be a source of oil pressure loss, check closely. Also rebuild and inspect the oil pump closely since it has been run dry at times. This pump has a relief valve ball and spring as does the front of the cam... look at a parts break down and repair accordingly. IF you do go the complete route also note that the center cam brg is special and has to have the holes lined up to oil the rockers. These engines oil through the center of the cam to the rest of the engine.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1752 |
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I believe there is only 1 manufacturer of the G160 kits, (aftermarket) prolly in china, tiawan or india no matter who you buy though. Although I just checked now, and it looks like I can get OEM pistons and sleeves, possibly the whole OEM kit. I just rebuilt a D15 G160 engine and I have some advice on the cam bushings, which you always replace if block comes out of tractor. In your set of new cam bushings, the center one will NOT be drilled correctly. The little hole in the bushing that must line up with the little hole in the cam and again in the block is drilled on the wrong half of the bearing! Whoever installs the cam bushings must be very sharp to redrill the small hole in the correct spot!
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Thanks to both of you for your responses. It is a 160-14458R engine. Serial number D15 24633, purchased new 7-19-1968. Will be checking on kits after we get the crankshaft checked so we know what bearings will need to be ordered. It’s a shame this happened as it’s always ran well. Still need to figure out how the sump came loose from the pickup tube.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Alex, who was the manufacturer of the kit you used? I have never heard of having to modify bearings before.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88160 |
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you need bearings and rings and a good inspection... Do you really need piston and liners ? ........... just a thought.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Yes, piston #4 has some side damage probably due to the low oil pressure that occurred while going down hill. The bearing also showed some damage. Other 3 have a little marking on the sides but we are not going to take any chances. While its down she will get the whole rebuild. This tractor has been a work horse for us for 52 years, everything from a 3 bottom plow, disk, corn picker, sickle mower, hay rake duty, bailing hay, pulling the allcrop 60, wagon mover, and any other chore that you can think of. It was dads main tractor until he bought the 6060 in 1981. Used to farm over 200 acres back then. Hopefully our children and grandchildren will get another 50 years out of her.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 88160 |
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GOOD PLAN !!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1752 |
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The cam bearings were federal-mogul, which is a good USA brand, although some of their bearings are made in Mexico. There must have been a tooling mistake, that little oil hole is supposed to be offset to the front and it is drilled offset to the back, or vice versa. If you go all the way into the engine, the motor kit that I offer is $600. Includes pistons, sleeves, o-rings and rings. It is made in the USA!
Edited by Alex09(WI) - 05 Jan 2021 at 6:32pm |
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A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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We are at the point to remove the engine. What is the correct procedure to remove the front end? Remove the front axle and roll it out and use a chain hoist to support steering pedestal so it can be removed? It looks like the 4 bolts attaching the power steering need to be removed so the bolster can be pulled forward. Our manual is very vague in the disassembly process.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3027 |
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Pulled the engine out of my Series 1 D 15 back in July . There's a post somewhere on here , but I'm thinking most of the pics are gone . Might be of some help if you can find it .Thanks
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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![]() We rolled the axle out and used the chain hoist to hold the bolster. Came out fine, no issue really from there. Just a tight squeeze at the power steering assembly. Have the engine out, sleeves removed. Crank definitely needs to be checked. |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3027 |
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Glad everything is going well so far .
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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![]() ![]() We put the oil float pickup back on to see how it came off. If the carter key is in a certain position it will slide off. Wear of 52 years has worn it slightly and it will slide by. Really a poor design IMO. Sure caused some serious damage. Piston is from #4 as well as the crank position. A good days work, great spending time with my 2 brothers as we take care of dads 1st AC tractor that he bought new in 1968. No major problems in countered so we are happy. A pretty normal overhaul and she will be ready to go for hay season. |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8534 |
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AC720Man,
Great that you and your brothers are working on this together also. Thanks for the update! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1752 |
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Might want to enlarge the cotter pin hole to use a bigger pin so the pickup doesnt work its way out again. Looking good!
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Tbran, you are correct, it is a interesting oil pump. The sweeps appear to be fine as well as the cup that it rides in. Haven’t removed the housing yet as I am quite nervous about the springs of the sweeps flying out. I guess the cover and 3 small cover screws could be placed back on and then remove the pump itself to inspect the pin at the end of the cam as you recommend. Will be cleaning everything up to send to the machinist.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3027 |
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When I had the engine out of my D 15 the oil pump pick up had what looked like steel wool in it ? Does yours ? Thanks !
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Yes it does, I guess it’s a mesh screen to help keep debris out of the pump. I’ve seen it used as air filters before also, at least ones that are oil bathed.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Rick if you have read the post you know we will need one of your awesome clutch packages while we have it apart.
Edited by AC720Man - 10 Jan 2021 at 4:30pm |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3027 |
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Good to know . Thanks
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Tom IA ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Donahue IA Points: 255 |
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AGKITS has the overhaul kit they are Reliance
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structures ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2011 Location: Beggs, OK Points: 335 |
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If it's of any use there are some pics of my D15II engine rebuild on page 4 here:
page 5 has the cam bearing that I had to drill out.
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Robert
1964 D15 Series II |
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Robert I just went through your post on your D15 and I must say your a gifted and talented man. Very impressive work. Some good information that we can use for sure. Thanks for letting me know. And can’t wait to see the final product.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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structures ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2011 Location: Beggs, OK Points: 335 |
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Hey thanks. I appreciate that. I assure you I am not gifted or talented. I just jump in face first, screw up alot and do it again! Looking forward to following your build here.
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Robert
1964 D15 Series II |
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8534 |
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AC720Man,
Thanks for the update on your 15! These can take some time but well worth the effort if you like these quirky old orange machines! Good to hear from Robert! I didnt know he was lerking! His work was a inspiration for me and others as he brought back his fathers D15. A great build thread! We need more pictures! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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We removed the cam and all the lifters yesterday. Bearings look good but they will be replaced anyway. Cleaned the inside of the engine of all the sediment of years of antifreeze circulation around the sleeves. Wasn’t too bad considering its 53 years old. Rear cylinder in the corner of the head had the most. Only had one issue. We went to remove the water pump and it was stuck on the stud that goes into the block. PB blaster, some heat would not budge it. It was rusted to the housing. Not enough threads to lock 2 nuts together. It eventually snapped off just inside the block. The stud had to be driven out of the pump once removed. Bolt is soaking in BP blaster. Easy out only turned it slightly. So before that snaps off will just soak and wait. Will put Kroil on it tomorrow as I have had better luck with it versus BP blaster.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8534 |
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I hate broken bolts, but on equipment as old as we are working on its expected. Good luck getting that rascal out of there! The one I just took out of the F40 had just enough to weld a washer to the bolt then a nut to the washer. I let it cool and worked it back and forth to get it out.
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5241 |
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Got the bolt out this evening...a little soaking and time did the trick. Waiting on parts, to be continued.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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