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dfwallis 
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 Topic: 1952 CA HP Boost Upgrades?
Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 1:44pm |
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1952 CA already has overbore "upgrade". What are the most common additional mods to increase hp, without stressing the engine too much?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 2:23pm |
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To be a real upgrade, your cranking compression has got to be 115 psi or more, which was what OEM 5.75 to 1 compression ratio was when the tractor was new. There are many after-market "over bore" piston/sleeve kits that actually have LESS compression than original pistons/sleeves, which gains you little to nothing. A larger carburetor or larger venturi in your carb is the easiest torque/HP gain. A D-15 governor spring will increase RPM's which increases HP thru more speed.
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dfwallis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 3:08pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
To be a real upgrade, your cranking compression has got to be 115 psi or more, which was what OEM 5.75 to 1 compression ratio was when the tractor was new. There are many after-market "over bore" piston/sleeve kits that actually have LESS compression than original pistons/sleeves, which gains you little to nothing. A larger carburetor or larger venturi in your carb is the easiest torque/HP gain. A D-15 governor spring will increase RPM's which increases HP thru more speed. |
The original upgrade was done in the 60s. Grandpa always said it had nearly the HP of a WD, but I think that's just what he was told. Per tractordata.com, the CA was 6.25:1, the C was 5.75 to 1. But it has been rebuilt at least twice since then.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 3:13pm |
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I thought the CA was 6.5 to 1 like the WD45, but I went to my official AC service manual and found the 5.75 to 1 ratio listed. So, maybe the book was never updated. Regardless, if you don't have at least 115 PSI cranking compression, or to your numbers, 125 psi cranking compression, your HP increase is minimal to nothing from OEM. EDIT: I checked Nebraska test and they showed 6.25 to 1, so quite possibly my AC service manual is in error.
Edited by DrAllis - 11 Mar 2023 at 3:27pm
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dfwallis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 4:05pm |
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Operating Instructions and Repair Parts Illustrations indicates that it came with either a low compression or a high compression engine. The low compression engine supported multiple fuel types, the high compression engine was gasoline only.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 4:51pm |
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Low compression version was 4.75 to 1 and 100 lbs cranking compression.
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dfwallis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 7:01pm |
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Engine is "stuck". Brother will inspect it tomorrow. He seems to think it was rebuilt just before dad parked it. It was tarped for a long time, not sure how long it's been without a functional tarp. So we'll see what it's going to take soon before a compression test is possible.
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PaulB
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 7:03pm |
How much are you willing to spend? How much HP do you want? I have built a reliable 60HP CA engine in the CE block and have parts on hand to build another. Very few have really done much with the BE/CE block and no off the shelf parts are available except for the 3-7/16" piston kit. If 30HP would make you happy, that can be done with stock stroke and at a reasonable cost. I also have parts to do this. Where are you located? If you would like help with more power in For your CA, you could Email me directly at; the1orangewizard@gmail.com
Here is my wife driving the 60 HP engine pulling a 2500 pound class in 3rd gear. Here's me pulling the 3000 pound class in 2nd. I was last puller of the class and the previous leader only got as far as where the flag person was standing at the start of my run.
If you really want power add a turbo. This is another tractor that I used to have. at 3000 pounds.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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dfwallis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 7:10pm |
PaulB wrote:
How much are you willing to spend? How much HP do you want? I have built a reliable 60HP CA engine in the CE block and have parts on hand to build another. Very few have really done much with the BE/CE block and no off the shelf parts are available except for the 3-7/16" piston kit. If 30HP would make you happy, that can be done with stock stroke and at a reasonable cost. I also have parts to do this. Where are you located? If you would like help with more power in For your CA, you could Email me directly at; the1orangewizard@gmail.com
Here is my wife driving the 60 HP engine pulling a 2500 pound class in 3rd gear. Here's me pulling the 3000 pound class in 2nd. I was last puller of the class and the previous leader only got as far as where the flag person was standing at the start of my run.
If you really want power add a turbo. This is another tractor that I used to have. at 3000 pounds. |
I'm just toying around with ideas at this point. I'd like to get it back in service but since engine work is likely needed, I was wondering what I might do while it's open. I live 1000 miles away from where it's located in Indiana. I'm just buying it for sentimental reasons. I can't stand to see the first tractor I ever used rusting away. Repairs will be a combination of what my brother is willing to help with, my occasional trips home, and professional where essential. Not the best situation for progress :(
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dfwallis
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Posted: 11 Mar 2023 at 7:16pm |
dfwallis wrote:
PaulB wrote:
How much are you willing to spend? How much HP do you want? I have built a reliable 60HP CA engine in the CE block and have parts on hand to build another. Very few have really done much with the BE/CE block and no off the shelf parts are available except for the 3-7/16" piston kit. If 30HP would make you happy, that can be done with stock stroke and at a reasonable cost. I also have parts to do this. Where are you located? If you would like help with more power in For your CA, you could Email me directly at; the1orangewizard@gmail.com
Here is my wife driving the 60 HP engine pulling a 2500 pound class in 3rd gear. Here's me pulling the 3000 pound class in 2nd. I was last puller of the class and the previous leader only got as far as where the flag person was standing at the start of my run.
If you really want power add a turbo. This is another tractor that I used to have. at 3000 pounds. |
I'm just toying around with ideas at this point. I'd like to get it back in service but since engine work is likely needed, I was wondering what I might do while it's open. I live 1000 miles away from where it's located in Indiana. I'm just buying it for sentimental reasons. I can't stand to see the first tractor I ever used rusting away. Repairs will be a combination of what my brother is willing to help with, my occasional trips home, and professional where essential. Not the best situation for progress :( |
:) PS I've seen those videos before. That looks like fun, but my long distance situation doesn't really lend itself to putting that much work into it :(
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DSeries4
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Posted: 12 Mar 2023 at 10:29am |
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If the engine is stuck, pull the head and take a look inside to see how bad things are. What ever you do, do NOT pull the tractor to try to start it.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 12 Mar 2023 at 11:37am |
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Had a stuck C engine - pulled the head, dropped the pan, and "lubed" is liberally with penetrating oil. Put a long handled socket wrench on the crank pully nut and gave it a yank every time I walked by it. After a few days it broke free and was on the road to recovery! Maybe you can talk someone local to the tractor into doing the daily walk-by after you pull the head....
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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PaulB
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Posted: 12 Mar 2023 at 12:56pm |
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Would you be interested in buying a ready to run engine?
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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dfwallis
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Posted: 12 Mar 2023 at 1:33pm |
PaulB wrote:
Would you be interested in buying a ready to run engine? |
Perhaps, but depends on whether the original is salvageable. I'd prefer to keep it original equipment, where possible. Miscellaneous items like the battery case, perhaps fenders may have to be replaced.
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WF owner
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Posted: 12 Mar 2023 at 3:59pm |
DSeries4 wrote:
If the engine is stuck, pull the head and take a look inside to see how bad things are. What ever you do, do NOT pull the tractor to try to start it.
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I agree.
I have soaked an engine for months only to find that the piston and sleeve were so badly rusted together that I actually broke the piston in two using my 20 ton press to try to salvage the connecting rod (I couldn't salvage it).
A borescope camera might tell you a lot, before you remove the head.
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