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1951 WD

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wjohn View Drop Down
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2020 at 10:34pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

John,
 My last WD45 project, took way longer than I expected, and cost more than I had planned too. But when I fire it up, its all worth it!
 Keep the pictures coming too!
 Regards,
 Chris

I'll get there eventually but I'm almost at the point where I'm keeping an eye out for another running tractor just to have something I can use right now. Once I have a couple of these fixed up and available it won't be so much of an issue.

Did have a question - do you remember having to ream out the new bushing that goes in the rear of the clutch/hyd pump/PTO drive shaft? I saw the pics of you cutting it out to remove it on your thread, but I'm curious if the transmission input shaft end fit inside the bushing with no reaming.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Location: Albion PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2020 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by wjohn wjohn wrote:

Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

John,
 My last WD45 project, took way longer than I expected, and cost more than I had planned too. But when I fire it up, its all worth it!
 Keep the pictures coming too!
 Regards,
 Chris

I'll get there eventually but I'm almost at the point where I'm keeping an eye out for another running tractor just to have something I can use right now. Once I have a couple of these fixed up and available it won't be so much of an issue.

Did have a question - do you remember having to ream out the new bushing that goes in the rear of the clutch/hyd pump/PTO drive shaft? I saw the pics of you cutting it out to remove it on your thread, but I'm curious if the transmission input shaft end fit inside the bushing with no reaming.

John,
 I dont think I had to ream it. Let me think on that a little. 
I dont have a reamer for that job and I dont remember borrowing one either. So maybe I lucked out. I do remember cutting the old one out. and I ordered the wrong one with out the oil groove from McMaster Carr. Got the correct one from Sandy Lake I believe. Any way mine went together OK. I will go back and review my pictures Maybe something will jog my old memory?
 Regards,
 Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Location: Albion PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2020 at 7:59pm
John,
Ok I went back and looked at the pictures of my tussle with the pilot bushing. Correct me if I am wrong but is this a split bushing? Mine came out in two parts. I had cut a groove through it to try to remove it. If I did have to ream it it was with drill bit or just emory or a dremmel. Might have use the little drum sanding wheel on a dremmel??
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2020 at 9:05pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

John,
Ok I went back and looked at the pictures of my tussle with the pilot bushing. Correct me if I am wrong but is this a split bushing? Mine came out in two parts. I had cut a groove through it to try to remove it. If I did have to ream it it was with drill bit or just emory or a dremmel. Might have use the little drum sanding wheel on a dremmel??
Regards,
 Chris

Yep, it's the split bushing. I saw your removal pictures but didn't see any mention of reaming it and neither did the manual, so I'm wondering if I have something wrong. The transmission input shaft is measuring right at .748-.749 in most spots and the bushing after installation is .738. Maybe I need to pull it back out and make sure I don't have any scratches or something in the bore of the clutch shaft that might cause the ID to be too tight when installed. Or I could just sand it a little with the die grinder, too.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2020 at 7:45am
John,
If you can pull it out easily and clean the bore I think I would try that first. The split ring style should allow it to open to the correct inside dimension. Maybe kicked up a burr. doesnt take much to get .012 reduction. I guess about any thing can happen on these old tractors. 
Keep your expectations low, and keep hitting at the project!
I have a WD cam shaft setting here on the bench too!:) Just sayin. But you never know it may not be any better than the one you have.
I have a whole pile of WD stuff that I need to go through in the vast warehouse and inventory and decide if I am keeping it or moving it down the road? Let me know. Sometimes its the little things that are missing or broken that help bring the project together. Lots of folks on here have helped me with good used parts for my Allis Addiction problem!

Regards,
 Chris

 
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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wjohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2020 at 11:27pm
I pulled the bushing back out, cleaned up the bore of the clutch shaft, and still had to take a fair amount of material out of the bushing after it was installed. The die grinder got a careful workout between lots of measuring of the ID. It definitely wasn't perfect without a reamer but I think it's much better than the old worn bushing.

Went to the machine shop with the head today only to learn that he can't do the intake/exhaust port surface with his equipment due to the casting sticking up for the water passages on that side of the head. His machine wouldn't be able to clear that. He suggested a couple of other shops and said basically they'd need a Bridgeport to reach in there, I guess. I will have to get in touch with them.

I did get the input shaft back in with new bearings, and made a new gasket for the shifter housing and bolted that back on. I think I even got everything lined up correctly since it seems to shift in and out of gears correctly.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 11:21pm
The worm gear steering shaft was severely worn where the frame support attaches, so I built it up as best as I could with my little Harbor Freight flux core welder and ground it down. It's ugly and I didn't consistently build up as much weld as I should have but I think it's no worse than before. I wanted to start by practicing with this piece before building up the vertical steering shaft in the front casting, where the bearing goes. I've never done a repair like this - thanks to Chris for covering that in his threads for his tractors!




I'll also need to replace or maybe weld a piece of tubing in the support that bolts to the frame, which is the other half of the equation. It surprised me that this area was so worn out since the pedals etc. aren't that worn on this tractor. They must have forgotten to hit this zerk with grease over the years. It's kind of an interesting part since it appears to be a stamping that is then brazed together along the sides and threaded for the bolt. I wonder why AC didn't make it a casting.


1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 9:59am
wjohn, nice work on the steering rod. I'm amazed at the amount of wear on that bracket.  I'm thinking it'd be hard to use tubing to replace the missing material as the wear is almost entirely on one side. Might it be possible to build up the lower half with weld, then bore it out to original diameter?
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 3:45pm
John,
 I have one of those steering supports that is worn about the same amount. They never got greased!:) Also a stamping is almost always cheaper than a casting. 
That's a tough part to repair. Maybe find a good used one on a low hour junk tractor. Check with Brenda at Sandy Lake they might have a used one?
I think you did good building up the worn rod. It will take another 70 years for it to be worn out again.
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 06 Jul 2020 at 9:26pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 8:41pm
I was actually wondering if I can find a piece of tubing with close to the correct ID for the steering shaft (1" as I recall). I could cut off the current "round area/bushing" from the existing support so I could weld the new piece on there and drill and tap it for the zerk. Machining holes that large is probably outside of my shop's capabilities for a little while otherwise I would consider welding it up and doing that.

Chris, agreed on stampings usually being cheaper, but the fact that this appears to have a brazing operation too made me wonder. They made castings for so many other things that it just surprised me.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 9:28pm
John,
 Its just steel! You can repair it somehow!
I think the tubing idea would work fine!
Post some pictures when completed.
The tractor is going to be like new!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 9:01pm
Spent most of the day working on the vertical steering shaft. It's an ugly process with this welder and my skills, but again, the shaft isn't as bad as it was before!






1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2020 at 9:23pm
I also made a holder for valve train components last week out of a scrap piece of 2x6. I saw several others who had done this and I have to admit it's a great idea. I wish I had done it sooner to keep everything matched up and in order. I went ahead and made it big enough for a 6-cylinder (with 2 valves per cylinder) just in case I end up with the nearby HD-11 I have my eye on.

Getting ready for valve and lifter resurfacing one of these days.


1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2020 at 8:49pm
John,
 The steering shaft looks very good to me! I had one of those welders and they were ok but when I changed and got a good used MIG with shielded gas, I could make a lot better welds! 
Nice holder for the parts. Did you get that package? If not let me know.
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 9:34pm
Chris, I personally don't mind flux core even if it's a little uglier. It's so windy here most of the time. But yes, I will need to upgrade to a real (non-HF) welder someday in the not too distant future. Thanks for sending the camshaft - the journals have almost no wear. I'm trying to find a place to grind the lobes since a couple have just enough pitting that I don't want to put it back in as-is. Way better than my original cam though as that would've had to been spray welded and ground back down to original size or something for those journals.

The crankshaft was finished today and the engine kit came in, so I picked them up. .030" under was enough to clean up the crank. The Reliance rebuild kit looks alright at first glance, other than the head gasket seems a little cheap.


1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2020 at 11:56pm
John,
That crank looks great from here! New engine kit too. Its like Christmas at your place! Your tractor sounds a lot like the last one I got. 
Thanks for the update and pictures! 
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2020 at 10:09pm
Front hub service time... No nasty surprises, at least. The bearings have some wear but they'll survive for awhile longer. One side had less crusty grease in it than the other so it must have been worked on. Packing bearings is always messy but now I know that they have nice fresh #2 wheel bearing grease in them. Someone tapped the nut covers on Dad's WD so that you could mount a zerk and pump more grease in, and I'm thinking I may do that at some point on these, too. You just have to be careful to not go overboard.

I'm going to contact a few places about having the cam and lifters ground, and I have a line on a semi-local shop that should be able to machine the manifold surface on the head. They do work for the local AGCO dealer.


1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2020 at 11:45pm
Those hubs will work just fine! Good to check them out.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 8:44pm
Made some progress over the last couple weeks but internet's been iffy. The narrow front is mostly back together, minus the worm gear shaft which will need a new seal. AGCO provides 354A and 355A tapered bearing race and cone to replace the original barrel-type bearing.



The PTO gearbox is all cleaned up and put back together. I had to put a speedi sleeve on the used output stub shaft from my dealer as it was pretty pitted (but the bolt hole wasn't egged out like on my original). I didn't have enough room to use two so I only have one seal on there. I might add a second seal to try and keep grass from packing in there, even though it won't be sealing tight to the shaft. It might at least protect the inner seal somewhat from damage. The stub shaft seal is a National 471276 and the engagement shaft seal is a National 471554.



The torque tube seals are also in, with the clutch shaft. I had a heck of a time getting the hydraulic pump side seal to not roll over when inserting the shaft, but I finally got it. I sure hope I didn't damage either of the seals when installing. I'll probably get it bolted up to the trans sooner rather than later so I can fill it and see if it leaks, before putting the engine back in. I did appear to locate the speedi sleeves pretty well for the seal placement.

Pump side:



Hand clutch side:



I'm also having a hard time finding the right size snap ring that goes on the end of that shaft, retaining the PTO drive gear. My AGCO dealer says it's not available anymore but I'm not able to match it up in any of the snap ring catalogs I have looked at so far.

PS lots of handy seal drivers can be made from random pieces of PVC pipe, and various adaptor fittings.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2020 at 8:54pm
John,
 You wont regret getting those new seals in there! Good photos too. Thanks for posting!
 Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 07 Aug 2020 at 8:54pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2020 at 7:58am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

John,
 You wont regret getting those new seals in there! Good photos too. Thanks for posting!
 Regards,
 Chris
X2! Good to see someone else doing this. I've had a lot of the same struggles in the past. Real good feeling once it's back together, working, and not leaking!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 hours 31 minutes ago at 8:59pm
I'd feel dumb if I didn't replace those seals while I was this far into it!

I ended up putting a new bearing on the PTO gear end of the clutch/hyd pump shaft. I used an FAG 6207 which has fewer balls in it than the original - I am not too worried about this but it will be something to keep an eye on if I'm able to use this tractor for much tillage or PTO work like I plan on. Then there's that darn snap ring missing that I still need to hunt down a replacement for in a catalog (I hope).



No pictures yet, but the torque tube and clutch housing are bolted back together with a new gasket. I did discover that wrapping a 1" strip of glossy coupon/junk mail paper around the clutch shaft splines and rotating it slightly seemed to be the easiest and safest way to slip that seal in there with the shaft already in place. I will have to remember that one for the future. I tried electrical tape but the stuff I have is pretty old and didn't want to stay put while sliding the seal on.

I had to do a little filing on the end of the shaft where it goes into the pilot bearing as it had been dropped or smashed into something at some point in its life, and mushroomed somewhat. Should make lining everything up and reinstalling the engine easier.


1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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