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1951 WD

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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 7:37am
wjohn,
 Yes that is a great tool for this work! I used it on the torque tube and the final drives too. 
I looked at the front seal and don't see much oil so maybe it decided to seal up a little! 

I think the pedestals are formed metal on the short heads??? Cant remember? But I do believe they are different.

This would be the time for a fresh clutch/ pressure plate, if your in need or in doubt. 

Hand clutch can be adjusted if the plates are good enough.

Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Sep 2019 at 11:56pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2019 at 8:25am
If that were me, I'd give Rick a call or e-mail him and have him fix you up with a new clutch/PP setup. Can't beat his prices, and man, he does a nice job. You have the Tractor all apart, and you plan on using your attachment. Put a new clutch set up in it so you don't have to split the Tractor again down the road. Why do twice the work?  JMHO.
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2019 at 8:39pm
Measured the clutch today. The service manual says the lining on one side should be 1/8" thick and 5/32" thick on the other. This one is worn down not quite 1/32" on each side assuming it was the same thickness as what AC had specified. For better or worse that seems like it should be in good shape. If it goes out sometime in the future then maybe that's an excuse to paint and everything at that time, too. I would hope I have at least one of my other tractors here and running as a backup by then!

Turns out the pilot bearing being open on one side is probably intentional. After looking through the service manual, it mentions engines prior to W310920 have a wick through the center of the crankshaft to bring oil to the pilot bearing. After that they quit using a pilot bearing until later on in WD-45 production when they must have realized they should have kept it and went to using a bearing, but sealed. It mentions that you should install it on tractors that didn't have it as it will increase clutch life and decrease the chance of leakage at the clutch housing seal, which makes sense. Anyhow, this engine is a little over 1000 serial numbers before the change, so I'll plug the oil wick hole and find a sealed bearing for it.

I wonder if the rivet or pin head that I found when I drained the oil was from something in the hand clutch. I will be checking that out in a couple weeks when I get a chance to work on this again (getting a dumpster to clean up all the construction debris around my house for a couple weekends). Then I need to put in some parts orders.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2019 at 8:33am
wjohn,
Clutch will probably work for a long long time! We ran the heck out of these in the old days and I don't remember ever having a clutch go out on a WD series. 
Regards,
 Chris 
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 8:25pm
I snuck in a little bit of time with the WD again. I had snapped off one of the front pedestal mounting bolts, so I spent a long but successful time drilling it out.

I wrestled with the engine on the hoist trying to get it on the stand I just bought but quit once I realized that I need two more bolts just 1" longer. Then I popped the cover off of the hand clutch, which has some light rust from what was probably condensation over the years. I've never dealt with a hand clutch before. The service manual says if grooves are still visible on the clutch linings then they're okay. I can still see grooves but I think what's left of the shims is just one big one so I'm off to watch Dennis' video on the hand clutch rebuild.

EDIT: They're actually a lot of shims glued together. I'm probably okay.

I have also decided that the head of the pin I found when I drained the transmission oil was probably from the hand clutch linkage. It must have been replaced at some point because I don't see any missing (and someone's been in it before since there was silicone under the access cover).




Edited by wjohn - 28 Sep 2019 at 9:45pm
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 12:28am
wjohn,

A trick I learned on the engine mounting to the stand, which maybe your already doing? I took the pivoting head out of the stand and then worked with just it, on the back of the engine. When I got it fit and secured, then could just lift/ tilt the engine stand base to slide it on to the pivot portion. It was one of those Duh moments for me, but I have a lot of those!

I have not had a WD clutch opened up recently. They are a 2 plate clutch vs a 3 plate in a WD45. Here is a picture of the 45 clutch I did last spring. This was before the rebuild I believe.

 This was the worn plate, which was working when removed: ( Yes the grooves were about gone, and cleaning didn't improve them.)

Also what a new replacement hand clutch plate looks like. I think it was .100 thick? around $80.

Yours is a little bit rustier, but if the drive plates are Ok then it may be fine.
Maybe snap open the hand clutch and take another picture of the plates of the hand clutch?
 Hard for me to see the drive plates in your picture? You have a lot of shims left so it has not been adjusted recently.

Check for play in the brass collar. Now is the time to replace if its worn bad. They get worn on the inside as that gets moved back and fourth. 
It looks like your hand clutch area may not have had oil in it for some time? Was it full? 
One of mine failed due to lack of oil or years of wear? Actually broke the brass and rendered that hand clutch inoperable. The new brass collars are not a cheap date either. Around $200.

While you have that frame fail off, is the time to service the oil seal on the hand clutch pivot rod if it needs it too. 

Your doing good checking it out as you go. 

I do know that Nic's old WD with a new brass collar and no clutch rebuild is still pulling strong against probably better fresher tractors. These clutches were pretty darn good units and worked for a long time!

That video of Dennis' on the WD45 hand clutch rebuild is good! I watched it several times.

How is the rear crank seal project coming along?
Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 29 Sep 2019 at 12:50am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 7:28pm
The only thing that kept me from mounting the stand and engine was that I need two more bolts 1" longer than what I have. I'll pick them up after work sometime next week. Then I'll pull the pan and crank seals. Pretty soon I'll need to actually order my list of parts that I keep adding to!

I can't get a useable picture of the grooves of the clutch disks but I took a rough eyeball/caliper measurement of the thickness and got 3 mm which is just slightly over your 0.10" measurement. I'm sure mine would measure out close to that if I took them apart and actually got the calipers on both surfaces. Regardless, they seem to be plenty thick plus the fact that I can still peek at the grooves.

Thanks for the tip on the brass collar. I checked and mine has some play in it but hopefully not so much that it might break anytime soon? It had oil in it, but it sat in a shed for several (maybe 10) years. $200 is enough to make me stop and think I can make it for quite awhile longer, and it looks like I don't have to split anything to replace it if I do get around to it later. Bad idea?

The hand clutch shaft came out today as well as the seal. Not too bad of a job since I already have the RH frame rail off.

I also took a peek at the front input shaft seal and decided it's definitely leaking... Plenty wet with oil. Hopefully I can pull that out from the front and drive in a new seal over the shaft?

Although I also got to thinking the only other seal that would be easier to get to now is the one between the hydraulic oil chamber and the rest of the transmission that keeps the fluids from mixing... I think I should probably pull a few more things apart and replace those while I'm this far, unfortunately.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 7:39pm
wjohn,
If the brass collar does have much wear you will be good to go. So saving money can be a factor in these project! It can get out of hand and every thing can be replaced!:) 

One other thing some folks do is to run the same fluid in both compartments. Just have to check because one is at a different level. Cant remember which is higher??
Your moving right along!
Regards,
 Chris


 
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 9:38am
I was able to spend a couple more hours on this finally. Pulled the oil pan and didn't see anything obviously scary. I spent some time brushing up on Don's oil pan gasket installation instructions and making a list of parts I need to order. I'm planning on getting the Fel-Pro oil pan gasket kit.

Pulled the timing cover up front and found some broken gear teeth. Those are probably from when the original governor fell apart. The camshaft gear seems to have borne the brunt of it and the crank drive gear just has minor damage.

Should I be worried about that camshaft gear? The tractor sounded great when I tore it apart to fix the rear engine oil leak, but I'd hate for the rest of those two teeth to shear off at a random time in the future. I'm leaning towards finding a replacement unless the experienced folks on here have seen worse.




1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 8:47pm
The "tall" head was introduced in 1951 with Engine #WD289001.
I think the distributer drive housing with the newer oil filler cap was also changed shortly after that but I don't know exactly when.
My '51 WD has the old style oil filler but my brother's '52 (Ser. #WD116619) had the newer oil flller cap.
When my Dad and I rebuilt his WD back in 1958 we put  the 4-1/8" overbore kit in it.
Lots of people called that the WD-45 kit but that's far from the truth......without that extra 1/2" of stroke, a WD is no match for a WD-45.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 10:39am
wjohn,
Those gears may work broken for a long time??? I am not a good judge of that. I guess if I was going to continue to try and use them I would buff all the broken edges smooth.
 My only story on this is that the engine block that is now in my WD45 was in a WD I bought years ago and had two pistons froze up. I got the pistons out and the engine would only turn 360 degrees then stop. I did not try to force it. Asked a bunch of old Allis experts to no avail. Finally took off the timing cover and found two gear teeth from the governor gear stuck in the cam gear! Moral of the story would be to ry and find the broken teeth in the bottom of the cover. 
Second story was on my Dads WD I took the timing cover off and found a old set of chewed up governor weights laying in the bottom of the cover. 
You never know what happened to these tractors in their lives!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 9:47pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

wjohn,
Those gears may work broken for a long time??? I am not a good judge of that. I guess if I was going to continue to try and use them I would buff all the broken edges smooth.

Thanks Sugarmaker. I looked at it again today and realized that two more teeth on the camshaft gear are completely sheared off about 180 degrees from the ones I took a picture of. I was concerned about those because that's the side of the camshaft gear teeth that drives the governor gear. That gear is narrower than the camshaft gear so the camshaft gear teeth are only engaging about 2/3 of their width with the governor gear... Approximately where my picture shows they sheared off, if that makes sense. Finding two teeth completely gone puts any doubts to bed now.

I did not find any loose pieces so those must have been removed when the governor was replaced by a previous owner. Now I need to find a good used bolt-on style camshaft gear!
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 10:17pm
I would use a file and remove any high spots on crank gear. That cam gear needs to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2020 at 8:48am
Yep sounds like you need to go shopping! Should be lots of good used ones out there. I will look and see what I may have in the vast warehouse!:)
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr 2020 at 8:37pm
Huge thanks to Chris for finding a camshaft gear for me! For now I've been working on the stuff behind the engine, though.

This crusty ball bearing at the transmission output shaft is getting replaced. A couple of the balls are pitted and it might have been some of the noise I was hearing in the drivetrain that I mentioned early on.

Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in this far? I was not planning on getting into the transmission or differential unless the wise folks on here recommend checking for some specific things. All gears functioned.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2020 at 7:43am
John,
 That bearing has a good crust on it for sure!:) Sounds like a good plan to look for any other issues. I have not had a transmission apart on one of the WD series tractors. So I am not going to be much help. 
Seals between the hand clutch area and the hydraulic area should be evaluated. If you have fluid mixing they probably need changed. Some folks just use the same fluid in both and monitor the levels.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2020 at 10:04pm
I didn't notice any mixing but I only ran the tractor for maybe an hour total after I bought it, and I figured I'd kick myself for not doing those seals now if they gave out a year from now and I had it all apart like this.

I apparently forgot to drain the transmission when I drained all of the fluids. At least I noticed it before anything came out. Got the transmission output shaft knocked out so I can replace the ball bearing, and noticed that the roller bearing behind it was in sad shape as well. No numbers on it, but after some research it appears that a National J321640 should be the right size. The other shafts in the transmission spin nicely and the rear tapered roller bearing looks good, so they must have been low enough and submerged in oil while this thing sat and got rusty. I've never been anywhere near this far into a WD so it's still fun.

The inside of the output shaft (where the outside of the roller bearing rides) is ugly, but not severely pitted. I'm comfortable polishing up the shaft in the trans (where the inside of the roller bearing rides) but I don't know about the output shaft. I personally wouldn't put it back in a car if I were rebuilding the trans... However I'm guessing I can't go buy a new shaft for my WD for $100.

Do I clean it up as much as I can and reuse it?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lon(MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2020 at 7:21am
I have nice shafts and gears on the shelf if you decide to replace.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 12:53pm
Thank you Lon. If I can't get the inside of that shaft cleaned up acceptably I'll be looking for a new one.

I had to take a sledge hammer and a block of wood to the engine clutch shaft in order to drive it out. It didn't want to move. All of the seals (engine clutch shaft, PTO, etc.) popped out yesterday with a little effort. The ones between the hydraulic and transmission compartments were about shot... Well, the rear one was completely shot, and the one on the hydraulic side was barely hanging on. I managed to over bend the snap ring on the PTO drive gear and it has funny measurements so I think I'll have to get that and a few other small odds and ends from my local AGCO dealer.

In the meantime I should be able to get all the bearings and seals I need, and work on the engine a little more. Hopefully the only question on the engine is the camshaft bushings but who knows what I'll run into.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 4:10pm
John,
You are deeper than I have gone. 
I do have a parts WD tractor here but the tranny is still in it. 
Keep us up to date.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2020 at 1:49pm
Not so great news on the camshaft bushings... Or even worse, the cam itself. The front bushing is visibly worn and measuring at 1.881" in about the worst spot (supposed to be 1.877" per the service manual). The journals on the cam look like garbage and measure from 1.868-1.871" (manual says 1.874-1.875").

AC calls for 0.002-0.004" bearing clearance and to replace if it exceeds 0.006". The manual also mentions "The 0.025" undersize bushings may be used if the shaft is worn 0.001-0.002"."

Since I'm looking at  0.005" or so of wear and the cam journals would need additional cleaning up, safe to say this one is done for? Wonder if it was run low on oil or a bunch of junk got in the system. It also looks like someone filed or ground on the rear journal, maybe to try to chamfer it slightly for installation? Maybe I never should've looked at the cam and not known what was in here, haha. The engine did run well.

Better go check the rest of the engine and make a list of what else I need to replace.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2020 at 1:56pm
John,
 I think I may know where there is a cam that might fit that gear you have? Just sayin....
Not sure its any better than what you have? Would have to do some inspection. 
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2020 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

John,
 I think I may know where there is a cam that might fit that gear you have? Just sayin....
Not sure its any better than what you have? Would have to do some inspection. 
 Regards,
 Chris

Thanks Chris. If you're able to mic the journals that would probably tell you everything.

No rush as who knows how many other parts I may need when this is all said and done! Main bearings visually look a little better and I'm trying to find my plastigage now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2020 at 7:08pm
The main bearings are done for, too. Here's a shot of the front... 0.0037" is the max allowed clearance per the manual, and I'm somewhere north of 0.006". This plastigage is good for 0.002-0.006 and it's still not even compressed to the 0.006 gauge width.

I still need to pull the crank and measure diameters but it's looking like it'll need to be ground anyway.

So much for sealing up the leaks and getting it back to work!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2020 at 9:21pm
John,
I will bring it in from the vast warehouse and try to get some measurements on the old cam.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2020 at 10:15pm
Pulled the head, pistons, and crankshaft today. The middle head bolt put up one heck of a fight. My 1200 ft.-lb. impact wouldn't budge it. It finally broke loose with a long cheater pipe on a breaker bar, and I have never seen so much powdery rust come out of a bolt hole in my life. I have yet to inspect the threads in the head.

No nasty surprises upon visual inspection of the pistons and sleeves. They will likely get reused after a light honing and measurement check. The pistons say "Alcoa" and "1533" and some name that seems to end in "-ex" so I may do some digging to figure out what they are and what compression ratio. This was a gasoline engine from the factory and should have higher compression pistons but I suspect they've been replaced since 1951. They are still 4" vs 4 1/8" bore.

The crank journals are all worn a good 0.020" or thereabouts. Since 0.040" undersize bearing sets are available I hope that they'll clean up fine... Now to find a decent machine shop here.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2020 at 7:53am
John,
Your getting into it now! That needed taken apart. May want to consider getting a kit for it? By the time your done chasing parts the cost of the fresh kit will look pretty good.
I was very happy with the kit I got from Sandy Lake Imp.
Just a note about the crank turning. My shop recommended me to find another crank due to the old one needing to be turned to .040 under on the mains. He thought it was just to risky. The original crank needed a bunch of other work too. So I did find another crank that only had to be turned .020 under on the rods and mains. But it needed work on the flywheel end which was spray welded and machined to make it into a good crank, with some life remaining if it ever needs to be overhauled again? 
I have to go find that cam shaft!:)
You will have a small fortune in the tractor but it will be a pleasure to use! Dont give up on the old girl!
I am very happy with my WD45 being completed. I need to take it out for a ride and maybe wash it up a little too! WE have sunshine!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Ford Jubilee, IH TD6 Many IH Cub Cadets
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2020 at 9:52am
Chris,

Funny how this works... I bought what I thought was a decent running tractor, but you never really know until you get into it. Of course the oil pressure gauge had quit working who knows how many years ago so I wasn't able to verify that when buying. On the bright side hopefully I am catching things like the crankshaft/bearings before they were too far gone to be saved. Hopefully fixing this WD will still end up being cheaper and faster than trying to fix up my stuck WD-45.

I have seen references to WD-45 cranks breaking when pushed to higher HP with different sleeve/piston kits, so I can see 0.040" undersize being of concern there. I could be wrong but I would think a WD should be okay if I have to go that far with it to clean the journals up. I will defer to the machine shop like you did.

On the overhaul kits, it looks like the cheapest ones are still over $600 with a lot of the cost being the piston/rings/sleeves. I can get a complete gasket set for $100, and rod, main, and camshaft bearings look like they'll be about $200 altogether. Of course if these sleeves don't clean up in spec then I would have to go for a kit.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2020 at 10:30am
Where do you find .040 under bearings? They almost have to be NOS, since I couldn't find any listed anywhere, when I was working on my CA.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2020 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Where do you find .040 under bearings? They almost have to be NOS, since I couldn't find any listed anywhere, when I was working on my CA.

All State Ag has them. I don't see any for the 116/125 CI engine, though.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1956 WD-45
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