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Bluecarpenter 
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Location: Missouri
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 Topic: 1946 allis b brake replacement help
Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 6:57am |
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Can someone please tell me how I replace the brakes on my 1946 b tractor
I've got the seat removed along with the fenders. Also the pedal linkage and covers.
I see the back pin held in with a retainer clip. Once the clip is removed is the pin suppose
To come out? If so how do you remove it? Not sure what to do at this point.
Thanks mark
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 7:30am |
Yep, the pin comes out towards the wheel hub side after you remove the clip. I used a punch on my 1939 B, but if I recall correctly not all final drive housings had the holes drilled through to the transmission side so you may not be able to get a punch in there. You can drill out the holes but I've also had success using a thin pair of pliers or vice grips to rotate the pin the pin and slowly work it out. It's slow going with the band in the way. I've also heard of people cutting the break band out.
This is on a hand brake tractor, but it should be similar enough.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Ken in Texas
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Location: Henderson, TX
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 7:56am |
Remove the hairpin clips and knock both pins out. Now comes the not so easy part. Getting the old bands out. There is usually a bunch of old hard dry grease and oil soaked dirt built up inside the housing preventing one from simply rolling the old band out from around the drum. Keep pecking at the hard crud with this and that to break it up. You may in a hour or so, with the right pecking tools, get the old bands out. With them out of the way peck away at all the crud thats left to make all the room you can to roll in the new bands. A piece of strong wire thru one end of the new band to pull on helps a bunch.
If the drums look real bad do the best you can to clean the shoe contact area before putting in the new bands. You have to use your immagination on what works best with what you have on hand. A Big flat bastard file wedged between the housing and the drum while someone turns the wheel to spin the drum does a pretty good job. Long strips of sandpaper see-sawed back an forth on the drum works too.
Center the new bands with washers on the pins as you replace the pins. Good Luck
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Dick L
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 9:35am |
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After fighting the brake bands on three of those I changed my tactics. I guess it depends on what you have to work with but I have found removing the final drive then removing the band out the big opening is easier and faster with less stress. Once the pins and hardware has been removed as suggested above the bands will slip right out after the mouse and squirl stash has been removed. Removing the final drive sounds like a big job just to remove and replace brake bands until you have pulled and replaced them thru the little slots.
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Bluecarpenter
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 1:04pm |
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds like I will be getting a good pair of needle nose visegrips and give
That a whirl. One I get the pins out I think I will drill a small hole on the transmission so I can use a small drift
punch to drive them out if I ever have to do this again. Once I get this one so its safe to drive I will be working on my 1950 b allis. The motor is stuck on it but not sure how bad yet. I'm sure the brakes will need fixed on it also.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 1:11pm |
I scraped out the mouse crud as best I could then use an air pick to blow out a lot more stuff (wear a mask!) I then used a come-a-long to put tension on the bands and pulled them out a little at a time by pecking on them until they came loose. I was lucky as my pins were loose for the most part. Overall it was a few hours job but I was lucky that the tractor had not set outside and rusted up.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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B26240
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 4:19pm |
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Listen to Dick L he has some great advice, I've done a couple and managed to get the job don from the top but his way does sound good to me !! Also penetrating oil on the pins!!
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jccleav
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 9:18pm |
I have posed pictures of my B's final drives when I had them off to replace the brake pads. I had the drums turned by a machine shop when I had them off. I also replaced bearings, races, and seals when I had them off. There was alot of junk in the housings. http://allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36189&KW=&title=my-b-project
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The joy is in the journey.
AC "B" and "WD" and "C"
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Bluecarpenter
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 9:57pm |
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so you just unbolt the 4 bolts and the final drive pulls off? looks like it might make it easier. I still have to get the pins driven out. I keep thinking I can drill in from the transmission side till I hit them and then drive them out.
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jccleav
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 10:16pm |
The four bolts or studs is all the holds the final drive on. I recommend using an engine hoist to support the final drive. I ended up using a chain hoist hanging from the rafters to put them back on. I would guess the final drives weigh about 75 pounds and the hubs weigh 50 pounds. Here is another feed that talked about pulling the final drive. http://allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39017&KW=brake&title=allis-b-axle-swap
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The joy is in the journey.
AC "B" and "WD" and "C"
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 10:24pm |
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Look at the photo in the second post.. Take a 3/8 drill and go in at a small angle from the trans case toward the back of the pin. Its only a 1/8 inch into the hole. Now use a 1/4 inch punch to drive out the pin. IF they are REALLY STUCK - use a pointed chisle on an air hammer - works great.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Bluecarpenter
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 10:27pm |
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ive got an engine hoist. how did you get the pins out on yours?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 10:31pm |
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Leave the finals on the tractor. Drill the back side of the pin. pound them out. get all the mouse nest out, tie a #9 wire to one end of the shoe and wrap around a pry bar or 3/4 ton chain fall and pull... to go back in, put the #9 wire around the drum and pull the shoes iin while you guide from the top. Sometimes rotating the tire and rolling the brake drum will help roll them in.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Bluecarpenter
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Posted: 08 Nov 2011 at 10:50pm |
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On the right side I looked in and then felt underneath in the hole and scraped out a little bit of garbage. Didnt seem to be much.
Dang makes me want to go out and work on it but its late and it will be thanksgiving weekend before I get to as im working a lo.
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Dick L
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Posted: 09 Nov 2011 at 4:47am |
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