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2wise4agm 
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Joined: 19 Aug 2011
Location: Smithton, MO
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 Topic: 190xt rear wheel removal
Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 6:30am |
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Thinking about making the three bolts needed to remove the rear wheels on my 190. I have access to a lathe, but are the more complicated than they look? And could someone tell me the length of the smooth part, and the total length of the bolt?
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 6:36am |
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They must be Gr 8 or better material.
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MACK
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 6:57am |
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You would better off using grade 8 bolts and flat steel plates between wedge and wheel to push against. MACK
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Lonn
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 7:22am |
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If you use a plate make it a hard one. I pushed a plate into the threads once and boogered them up some.
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KGood
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 8:08am |
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I did what Mack said but I also had to go around it using a sledge and big chisel as a wedge. I've done four of them so far. I found if you put 23.1/34's on a XT you gotta move them out a little
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 7:06pm |
A 3/4 bolt 6 inches long will work with the end turned down to fit in the 5/8 threads in the wheel center. I dont remember the length. It only has the be the length of the treads in the wheel.
I made mine from grade 5 bolts and they worked. A grade 8 would be better. Fully threaded bolts that long can be difficult to find. I had to thread the shank of the bolt for mine
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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HARVESTMOONPULLER
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Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Location: NW Ohio
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 7:22pm |
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If i was home i could geive you exact measurements but i made 6 of mine out of grade 8 bolts on my lathe. Really easy to make but i had plenty of originals to use as templates. Make new ones and keep the originals original.
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norm[ind]
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 7:29pm |
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WE HAVE SET OF BOLTS FOR SALE 1-574-342-4545 GR 8
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darrel in ND
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 10:34pm |
This has nothing to do with the length of the bolt, but well help you out a lot when you go to removing the wedges; and that is run a thread tap or thread chaser into the holes before you start to clean the threads up, then grease up the threads inside and on your pusher bolt really good before you put the bolts in. Then after the bolts bottom out and start pushing, just keep going around from one bolt to the next, turning each one just a little, and it should pop off pretty easily. It's kind of basic tip, but when I was younger and dumber, I tried doing my first one without cleaning up the threads (and using an air wrench) and got a pusher bolt stuck where it wouldn't turn either direction and had a fight on my hands for hours. Darrel
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Hurst
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Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 11:01pm |
If you do use the plate behind the bolt method, be careful as the end of the bolt can mushroom some and make it pretty difficult to get back out. I used GR5, so the cast wedge cut the bolt threads pretty easily, but using a harder bolt, if it were to do this (which it may not, being harder metal and all) might damage the wedge threads.
Hurst
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BobHnwO
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Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 7:17am |
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I would think pusher bolt threads are flat on the bottom side as opposed to tapered threads on standard bolts!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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AC200Puller
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Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 1:22pm |
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Total bolt lenght is 5" lenght of threads under head is 2.5 inches and the lenght of the end without threads is 2" and the diameter of the smoth part is .5 inches and tapered at the the tip.
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2wise4agm
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Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 4:28pm |
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 5:35pm |
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The threads are standard straight V 60 deg V threads for the bolts. 3/4 NC
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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