190 power director stuck in low

so over the summer i rebuilt the power director in my project 190.most of the friction disc came out in pieces when i tool it part. the front housing was pretty well worn and some of the steels were warped. i got a housing, some steel disc and some friction disc used from sandy lake and got the rest of the friction disc and all seals, orings and gaskets new. i cleaned everything up, made sure all disc were not warped and assembled the power director. when it came tile to sliding the tractor back together it gave me a bit of a hard time. got it to about the last inch and would not go any further so i gave up for a few days. came back messed with it some more and was able to pull it together with the bolts, using just  1 hand on the the wrench going easy. got it all together, everything hooked up and filled up. fired the engine up, ran it a few mins with the clutch in and then let it out. didn't hear any weird noises or vibration, engine didn't bog. so i shifted the power director into low, no changes, then i shifted it into and the engine bogged down. i put it back into neutral. so i put the trans into gear and let the clutch out and the tractor drove ahead as if it was in low. i stepped on the brakes as hard as i could and the engine bogged down but kept moving. i shifted it into low and it kept going the same speed. then i shifted it into high and the engine bogged and the tractor still moved at low speed. i put the pressure gauges on the pd valve and pressures are correct for the corresponding lever position and ports. i backed it back into its place and haven't touched it since. anyone have an idea whats going on. did i mess something up rebuilding the power director or when i put it back together. that's the only thing i had to kind force together and it didn't go all that hard. i did this by  myself with a bottle jack and a floor jack. any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.thank you

i know well enough to not force it but it was pissing me off and used a little persuasion i turned the engine over probably 100 times both directions.ive split quite a few tractors and thid is the only 1 that has given me a problem. for the piston. im thinking to my self here, well yea they only go 1 way, but then again im thinking you know something that i don't. do they have to be clocked a certain way?

all the parts in the clutch pack went together easy and all plates where free/ loose once assembled completely. there are no shims that i am aware of


Edited by screwylouie010 - 16 Feb 2015 at 8:39pm

if i remember correctly the pistons would only go in 1 way. no way to put them in wrong

your p.d. valve could have a crack in it that is putting pressure on both sides or the plunger could be bent just a couple of things to check Niel

The large bronze bushing in the front (low range) housing was too small of I.D. and is stuck onto the hollow shaft, causing low range all the time. Mixing and matching used parts and not checking the fit can cause this scenario. If this bushing was replaced with new, that's your problem as it needs to be "sized" after installation in the housing.

there are two ways to learn - do it twice after asking Doc what happened, or it is a really good idea to put an eyeball on a AC service manual - where this is spelled out. I am not chiding you, but for all who read the post use it as a learning experience. There are so many small issues like this that are overlooked that cost big bucks.  I talk to our guys almost daily about this, and sometime I think I know all about a system - and bang, make a mistake that could have been avoided. Preachers study the bible all their careers , but never go to the pulpit with out one - but I will tackle a powershift with the service book on the shelf......... the unpardonable sin.... :-)

an AC service manual would have been a great help, but i only have an I&T manual, actually only checked that a couple times through out the process.