185 brake job cost?

Butch...Sent you a PM.   Rick

The band tries to stop band. At that time it causes the drum to expand which applies pressure to the discs.  MACK

Butch, catch Eldon on the next trip and have him do it. He has done quite a few lately. LOL Tracy

I was thinking that by using the left brake when parking wasn't the problem, but maybe forgetting about it being set and taking off without releasing it might be! LOL!   Rick

If you are lucky you can get by with just replacing the pads and bands for under $100 a side. Last one I did didn't cost me a dime since I had some good bands laying around, a spare drum and some new facings for it just laying here. Worst case with shaft seals, springs, balls, linings, rivet tool, new drum and matching plate, new bands, new rods for bands, shims and new tranny fluid....you are looking at close to a grand. I just talked to a guy who had a shop do his 185 and he said it cost close to $1200.

Rick wrote: Seriously, I think that people probably go around the fields while brush hogging or plowing, etc., making more left turns than right turns could be some of the reason the left brake wears out first. I know when I was logging all the time, it seemed that I used the left brake most of the time, whether making a lot of left turns or trying to keep the front end uphill when skidding the logs.   Rick

I'm not sure what the previous owner used my 175D with 1400 hours for, but the rh drum was 1/4" smaller in diameter than spec, bands were ground down to nothing, and the rh side sway block was worn so thin it bent and had been welded up at least once to add material to it. Plowing maybe??? Of course that is the hardest side to change....





Had to torch out the top pin.

Well, Stevo...maybe you're the one doing things bass ackwards? LOL! I've seen many folk that did field work the way I mentioned, but who knows. I've never heard of the u-joint thingy either, but then I haven't heard of a lot of things, I guess! LMAO! Since I haven't broken anything from doing it the way I have been, there's no use to change it now, right?     Rick

Eldon and Rick: not trying to start another p-ing match. I guess I am like some others that come hell or high water, if I think I am right and you cannot prove me wrong then I have a hard time giving up although it would probably be in my best interest to just shut up!! I have used ac tractors more than all of my adult life and that is a looong time in dog years, but was always fortunate to not have to endure the comfort of a nothing older than a d series in the Allis Chalmers line, so I did not even include a wd or 45 in my thoughts about twisting around on one of those models. Eldon, you are correct with your point. as far as the strain on the pto driveline, if you pull a non-3 point piece of equipment with any make or model of tractor and turn short to the left it will chatter causing more strain and wear on the driveline. The only exception to that is the newer double u-joint drive lines and they were designed to reduce the strain even on right turns due to the even higher horse power being applied by tractors now. Even those shafts need to be used with some amount of care or else you will be spending $1,000 plus for a new shaft and they do sell new ones. I do not pretend to know it all but have been farming full time since 1969 so if you have seen a lot of people turning to the left using modern pto equipped machines that are of pull type using a drawbar such as a haybine,square hay baler, pull type brush hog (not 3 point) either they do not hear well,haven't read the operators manual, or just plain ole don't care how to take care of their equipment. If using a 3 point implement, you could spin in circles to the left all day long and would have no effect on the drive line because it does not bend while you turn. Rick, just to be clear, I am talking about using PULL TYPE PTO EQUIPMENT ONLY, so cool your jets and rethink before deciding I am the one going bass ackwards. Maybe I was not as clear as I should have been so my brain or what is left of it would match my typing with my thoughts. I was raised on farm income only and went through some lean years and we had to do it right to keep repair costs down. Still your friend, Steve

I have so !#!$#%!! much brush and trees on my field edges that I need to clean up, I usually start outside brush hogging or discing in a field based on which side the muffler is on to keep it as far from the branches as I can.  On a D17 the muffler is on the left so that means counter-clockwise and my 180 gas it's on the right so I'd do it clock-wise.   Mike

Each to his own I guess. When I am pulling a 32 foot disk or cultivator, forty or sixty foot planter, or anything with any size, I want my right side to the fencerow, so I can sit a little crooked in the seat and look over my right shoulder. That way, I can just look down and quickly grab the controls if needed. Soooooo, I normally work a field counter clockwise.
Now given a hay bine or square baler or such, it is a given which direction to operate, except for finishing a field.
But I do have one question....you say any pull type pto equipment is to be pulled and turned clockwise in a field, such as baler, mower or pull type bush hog, what possible difference could it make what direction I turn with a pull type bush hog or hay roller and alike with a centered driveshaft, whether it be a CT joint or regular joint?? This I do not understand. Please explain.

I just spent $1500 for brakes on our 185 about a month ago.  I got some other things done and paid more for that.  Brakes are amazing now.

we never price a "brake job" - we ask if you want it patched or fixed correctly . We have spent 2 hours just getting broken lug bolts out.
Sometimes the pins come out, sometimes not. Sometimes cleaning up oil leaks takes time.
To do a job right, both inner and outer friction surfaces should be machined, them re shimmed to correct dimension. This takes time. A correctly done job - and the customers not driving with the parking brake on - will result in like new performance and long life. Brake jobs have run from $650 to $1650 on wipe out cases...

Which way the pto is running or not , have nothing to do with the brakes. I don't care what side you start on, you are going back and forth. Left then right, left then right, left then right. So no matter what side of a field you start on, has nothing to do with what brake wears out quicker. You guys need something else to think about.
     IG