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185 3 point |
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Kansas99 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 26 Feb 2015 Location: W Kansas Points: 4867 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 17 Aug 2021 at 9:23pm |
I was hooking up the mower today and as I was kicking the right arm on the pin the arms started to raise, so now no matter what I do the cylinders are under pressure trying to raise the arms. I'm guessing something in the valve? Doesn't matter what I do with the valve, if it's running it going up. If it's shut off then it will act normal other than raising of course. I'm guessing the valve needs to come a part, but thought maybe someone knew something I didn't before I try to take it apart.
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"Thank you for your service Joe & the Ho"-----Joseph Stalin
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21700 |
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The two rear levers on the console need to be FORWARD. If it still wants to lift the hitch, you have external linkage problems. Do NOT take the valve apart.
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Kansas99 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 26 Feb 2015 Location: W Kansas Points: 4867 |
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Dr. I’m not sure what I’m looking at but I couldn’t see any linkage issues. Do you think it’s in the traction booster or somewhere else. At the time it took off on its own I was having to kick the right arm on as I wasn’t perfectly square to the mower and once it went on it took off up.
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"Thank you for your service Joe & the Ho"-----Joseph Stalin
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21700 |
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If both rear hydraulic control levers are positioned fully FORWARD, you have a Traction Booster/Position Control linkage problem holding the plunger spool in, causing the hitch to slowly lift. This problem has been documented a dozen times or more on this website from D-17 series 4's thru 185 tractors as they are all the same hardware. Good people have provided pictures (which I cannot) of where the problem is located. Why this hasn't been put into the KNOWLEDGE base, I have no idea. If the "finger" that pushes the spool in is rusted on it's pivot, just loosen up the nut on the bolt one full turn (and leave it like that) and then rotate the head of the bolt several turns and the finger will now be free.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21700 |
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On the rear of the hydraulic valve stack, near the fender, is a short aluminum cap/cover with two allen head screws. Remove the screws and catch the cap/cover in your hands. Take a hammer and a punch and gently drive the spool clear forward until it won't go anymore. Replace the cap/cover.
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7478 |
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Look at the traction booster and position control linkages under the console. There are 3 pivot points in the linkage. All of them must move freely by hand - not with the levers. If even one is stuck, it will cause problems like you have described. If they are all moving freely, the traction booster valve might be sticking. 90% Of the time, the linkage is rusted and causing problems.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Kansas99 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 26 Feb 2015 Location: W Kansas Points: 4867 |
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Thank you gentlemen, got the 185 working. Linkage was fine so I took the cap off the back and there it was spring was pushing but valve still open. Pushed it in and out till it felt good and free, instead of sticky and it's working fine.
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"Thank you for your service Joe & the Ho"-----Joseph Stalin
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