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mintenfarmer 
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Location: Minnesota
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 Topic: 180 what to do
Posted: 25 Jan 2018 at 9:07pm |
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I am planning on rebuilding my 180's engine since I have not been able to sell it. What should I all do to the rear end while I have it apart? It's going to get a new clutch and the transmission input seal replaced also. Could someone explain more on the longer shift rails update for fourth gear as it pops out sometimes. Thanks
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 25 Jan 2018 at 10:11pm |
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Don't know what all it needs. If it needs transmission input seal, it may need PD seal housing and Orings. MACK
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 26 Jan 2018 at 9:33am |
Are you talking about the clutch shaft seal or the transmission input seal? Two different splits. The clutch shaft seal is easy with the engine removed. It may need the input shaft and 4th gear coupling if it jumps out of gear.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Jan 2018 at 8:17pm |
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70261443 is the deep shift into 4th gear rail. Add an extra spring 70229458 to the detent ball. The newest thicker tang fork is 70261385. If your 180 has original parts in it, these will probably take care of the 4th gear problem. Remember the shift cover dowel bolts go in the left front and right rear corners. I would do this FIRST before any split at the dashboard. If it doesn't fix it, you need more internal parts like the transmission input shaft and maybe the 3rd/4th coupling. Know what you have to work with to avoid splitting it TWICE.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Jan 2018 at 8:58pm |
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70261443 is the deep shift 4th gear rail for 180-185-190-190XT-200 transmissions. 70261385 is the newest 3rd/4th fork with thicker tangs. 70229458 is a second detent spring. This info needs to be put in the knowledge base info please.
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mintenfarmer
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Location: Minnesota
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 7:39am |
 Joe(TX) wrote:
Are you talking about the clutch shaft seal or the transmission input seal? Two different splits. The clutch shaft seal is easy with the engine removed.It may need the input shaft and 4th gear coupling if it jumps out of gear. |
it's the seal behind the clutch I think. It leaks hydraulic fluid from under the clutch and the left fill on the transmission is the one that goes lower. Thanks
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DMiller
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Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 7:57am |
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If I were going to the effort to rebuild the engine, had it split in two for the clutch and the seals noted it is NOT that hard to pull the trans and fix it right as well. Why grouse on that part where the engine will be fresh? If not complete and fully functional with a potential to still drop out of fourth it still won't bring any real return for sale as a rebuilt tractor.
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 12:40pm |
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If I fix this tractor up I will most likely keep it. I went up to the local dealer today, he had never heard of the longer shift rail before.
My next question is can I pull the transmission cover off or will that cause extra problems? At least then I could find out what I have.
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DMiller
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 1:10pm |
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Had mine off to replace three bad shift forks. Fun part is not the removal but the reinstall as have the third fork for reverse to get into the slider down deep in trans. Is a process in the service manuals for reinstall. My reverse fork broke off at that time.
Edited by DMiller - 27 Jan 2018 at 1:11pm
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 1:23pm |
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I don't have a service manual yet, but plan on getting one. Unless someone has a PDF of it
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DMiller
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 1:35pm |
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Sorry, mine is a hard book.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 2:26pm |
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Have the shift cover in SECOND gear for removal and installation.
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 4:19pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Have the shift cover in SECOND gear for removal and installation. |
Okay. I've done this on my wd
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 27 Jan 2018 at 6:38pm |
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 28 Jan 2018 at 8:20pm |
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I'm hoping to get the cover off on Tuesday or Wednesday when it warms up because the tractor still has no2 diesel in it
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:29pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Have the shift cover in SECOND gear for removal and installation. |
I feel really stupid asking this but by second gear do you mean all the way to the left and back? On to the front? My decal on this one says 2 is forward but other says two is left and back
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:37pm |
DrAllis wrote:
70261443 is the deep shift 4th gear rail for 180-185-190-190XT-200 transmissions. 70261385 is the newest 3rd/4th fork with thicker tangs. 70229458 is a second detent spring. This info needs to be put in the knowledge base info please. |
DrAllis, did they make a deep shift 4th gear rail for the 175? Thanks Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Leon B MO
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Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:44pm |
With the shifter in 2nd gear, everything on the mainshaft and counter shaft is in a position that makes it easy for the shifting forks to be put back into trans. Trans needs to be in 2nd also for reinstall. Otherwise the reverse fork just doesn't have room to slip into place. Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:49pm |
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I would think they are talking about the gearshift to the left and back,toward the seat .
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DSeries4
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Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 7:50pm |
mintenfarmer wrote:
DrAllis wrote:
Have the shift cover in SECOND gear for removal and installation. |
I feel really stupid asking this but by second gear do you mean all the way to the left and back? On to the front? My decal on this one says 2 is forward but other says two is left and back |
The main transmission in second gear (not the decal).
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 8:09pm |
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Thanks. That's what I figured
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 11 Feb 2018 at 8:49pm |
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Two more questions before I go to bed. Does the engine need to be on compression stroke of cyl 1 when I pull pump and is the stationary mark supposed to be very near the bottom of the timing window?
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 2:22pm |
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Anybody
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DrAllis
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Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 3:30pm |
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The rear window mark might be anywhere. Line up the front moving mark with the rear fixed mark. SCRIBE A MARK ON THE PUMP MOUNTING FLANGE AND ENGINE FRONT PLATE. This way you KNOW exactly where it was timed for the last 30 years. Remove all six exhaust manifold bolts and raise the manifold and muffler out and down and slide them off the tractor and set them out of the way. Remove the fuel filter and base. Loosen/remove all six injector lines at the injectors. Remove throttle connection and fuel shut-off cable. Tie pump throttle lever wide open with something. Remove two nuts/washers that retain the pump and pull it rearwards and off the engine. Note the flat tang on the pump drive shaft and the "DOT" on one side. Look inside the pump and you'll see another "DOT". They align with each other when you re-assemble.
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 7:39pm |
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Does it matter what cylinder is on compression stroke?
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 7:56pm |
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The marks in the window of the pump need to line up when number 1 cylinder is on its compression stroke.
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mintenfarmer
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Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 8:04pm |
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If I already pulled it but didn't spin it can I slide it back on and get it on 1
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 8:21pm |
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Might be a little late,but do you have an IT service manual??
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 8:37pm |
mintenfarmer wrote:
If I already pulled it but didn't spin it can I slide it back on and get it on 1 |
If you haven't turned engine over, and you haven't moved pump, you can slide it back together( and bolt it up, turn engine over) and get marks to line up. It might or might not have correct timing if pump is not bolted exactly to flange like it was before it was removed. HTH Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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B26240
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Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 6:22am |
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After reading all this I have to feel sorry for someone out there trying to do this work on their 180 who doesn't have access to this wonderfull site !!
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