180 transmission parts

Pulling in the 180 and doing work on the transmission, and need to put in a new fourth gear, it's still there but will not stay in gear. Who is a good place to get new parts or should we try to find a good used parts. What's the quality of the gears for sale on the Internet?

Tom, I had the same issue with 4th gear and also 3rd in the 180 I acquired five years ago. I asked the question about after market parts on this forum and using A&I parts, I believe. Got a positive response so went ahead and used them. Saved quite a bit over Agco parts. I don't use my 180 hard, so can't say these would hold up under heavy use, but for my needs it was worth the cost savings. Dave

 The gears and couplers can be fixed if you can find someone that can weld the lugs back up to the correct size and shape. I had that done on the D-17 years ago, works great and didn't cost me a whole lot.

Is there really that much or any difference between the AGCO gears and A&I gears?
Can't be many places that actually manufacture these gears,maybe only one.

Agco prices aren't bad, they have the true specs and will be right, seems to brought their prices down some

Edited by DougG - 02 May 2017 at 6:26am

DougG wrote: Agco prices aren't bad, they have the true specs and will be right,

I'll second that. I've never had to replace a gear yet but heard that some have and replaced with non-oem gears which made a lot of noise.

There are many reasons for jumping out of gear.  As the good Dr. states the #1 issue is the oem gear shift collars simply were not set correctly to shift in all the way, seated, into gear. Thus only a portion of the shifting lugs were being used - and when ground = forced into gear it wore what was being used to a degree angle that the shifting collar was forced away into neutral either in a pull or when the throttle was backed off or there was a reverse load on the gears.  4th was worse because a heavy load was started in 3d then shifted into road gear'. The second reason was the gears had too much clearance either fore/aft or radially between the pinion shaft and the collar or the collar and the gears   - especially 3d / second gear.  When many pinions are inspected the pinion shaft will be a few thousandths worn in the area where the collars ride.  This play allows the pinion gears to be forced away from the counter shaft  with the results being the shift collar is always running an interference radius to the gear lugs and again resulting in wear.  We have also seen wear in the bearing on the counter shaft allowing the helical gears to be thrust into the main pinion gears.  The pinion bearing itself can wear and get loose and allow the front tip that rides in the needle bearing in the input -4th- to move up and down thus again accelerating wear on the coupling splines that result in engagement force out .  The 3d gear thrust washer can fracture  or wear and cause excessing slack = much slack if the washer drops out to the bottom -  there was a service bulletin concerning over hardened thrust washers in the late 70's.  Reassembling the  transmission  noting all these areas and then making sure the collars sift completely into gear will probably result in the last rebuild necessary.  Any time we check out a 170-200 tranny we always shift into all the gears and when the shift lever detents PULL HARDER on the shift lever and fell if the detent pops and allows the lever to move further into gear.  IF it does -fix the issue - it will pay big dividends.    As a PS  also weld up all shift forks that are worn and or replace them.  Replace the seal in the PD seal housing as well with the seal correctly orientated - many service pictures are wrong - the open end or spring end goes toward the front.  We also enlarge the drain hole a bit size and make sure the seal outer ring does not block it - this is where oil transfer occurs.

180-185-190-190XT-200.