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180 PTO Coupling Jumping Out: Ideas? |
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nsula_country ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Location: NW Louisiana Points: 218 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 10:09am |
I have a 180 with the hydraulic PTO. The sliding coupling keeps jumping out while mowing. Should I use wire or a welding rod and try to hold it in position. Yesterday I had to stop about 5-6 times and remove the battery cover to reach in and slide the coupling back in. It feels like there is a detent when it in engaged, but it is not holding it in place.
Ideas? CT
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Hurst ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1218 |
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I believe someone had this problem before, but on a tractor with a mechanical linkage PTO instead of the hydraulic, so that coupler got used a bit more. If I remember correctly, they opened it up (can't remember if it was a split or if there was a way to get to it through a cover or something) and used a drimmel or similar little grinder tool to clean up the splines on the shaft and either did the same to the coupler or replaced it. Again, it's been a few years since that post was on here, and my memory is a little fuzzy. Hopefully someone can chime in with better details or something else that would be worth trying.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours |
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nsula_country ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Location: NW Louisiana Points: 218 |
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The splines feel good whenever you rotate the lever into position. The leaver also has a little "snap" when all the way in or all the way out. I am wondering if it is a weak detent spring/assembly or like you say there may be slack in the splines causing it to work out of position.
CT
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Burgie ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Scottsburg, IN Points: 1192 |
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If it is like a 200 you can take the box down and put a sleeve (pipe) on the shaft to keep the coupler from going too far forward. You will have to use snap rings or something so the pipe don`t get into the cage on the bearing.
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"Burgie"
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Skyhighballoon(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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Hurst - that was me on my 180.
If the splines are burred I would think there would be a tendency for the sliding splined coupler to stay engaged (stuck) on the rear PTO shaft and not work off. I'm guessing you are right about a weak detent. The manual PTO linkage isn't the smoothest mechanism in the world but it does do the job of holding the lever in place when engaged. I would not weld anything. Just use wire or a bungee cord/rubber tarp strap to hold it in place since the manual linkage does the same thing. Mike |
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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nsula_country ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Location: NW Louisiana Points: 218 |
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I guess I should have said beat the flux off a weld rod and use it as a restraint like a bungee cord or piece of wire. To hold it engaged. I have only had this tractor since February and have not used it much until recently. Overall it is a strong tractor, just a lot of small gremlins, like the PTO issue. Still $2690 was cheap for 65 PTO HP!
CT
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AaronH ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: WI Points: 606 |
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I didnt think the coupler ever disengaged with hyd pto. It ran off the clutch packs. I had an issue like this on my 200, but it had manual pto, and when I got in there, the splines on the pto shaft and the coupler were worn out. Replaced both.
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nsula_country ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Location: NW Louisiana Points: 218 |
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AaronH, it is not supposed to. The hydraulic part works great. But for some reason when they went hydraulic, Allis Chalmers engineers felt the need to leave the manual part there. The manual coupling is working its way out till it disengages. Maybe an OC clutch will ease the pressure on the splines and keep it engaged?
CT
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