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cbr_fx4 
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Joined: 28 Mar 2012
Location: rockwood pa
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 Topic: 180 diesel fuel pump removal
Posted: 12 Sep 2018 at 6:53pm |
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I need to remove the injection pump on our 180 as it is getting fuel in the oil. If I read other posts correctly I just need to line the timing marks up in the window and pull the pump off the shaft right? Also will I need any special tools for the new umbrella seals? Those seals are the only place for fuel to go into the crankcase, correct? We hope to just reseal the shaft but if the pump needs rebuilt that will happen while it's off. Thanks for your help.
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gallatin,TN
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Posted: 12 Sep 2018 at 7:02pm |
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There is a couple of tools that would make it easier. One to expand and place seals on shaft in correct groove. Another to squeeze the od down to slide on pump. Hth Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
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Posted: 12 Sep 2018 at 7:21pm |
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usually those seals leak because the return fitting is plugged up with broken flex ring material.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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DougG
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Location: Mo
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Posted: 12 Sep 2018 at 7:53pm |
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Thought only the 6000 series had the flex ring deal,, you have to get the engine at the right timing mark, then the lines will be close in the pump window,, pretty easyly done , then take it off
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cbr_fx4
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Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 5:44am |
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I've been doing some more research and it sounds like if I don't have to get the pump rebuilt I need to wire it at full throttle so the weights on the pump don't fall. Is this correct? Thanks
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 7:35am |
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correct, any time you remove the driveshaft from a DB pump, the throttle should be wired in the wide open position, so the governor spring holds all the flyweights in place. The flex ring issue is on all the older DB & DC pumps, like 180-220 and some of the DB2 pumps found on 6060/6070/6080. DM pumps like on a 7000 and up do not have that issue.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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cbr_fx4
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Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 1:16pm |
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Dumb question but what's the easiest way to turn the engine over by hand?
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calico190xt68
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Location: Frankton, IN
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Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 2:20pm |
I have a long post where I detailed my pump removal and install. Also, I had a very hard time seeing my timing mark. It was barely a scratch and if my son hadn't seen it, I might still be looking for it. However, Ed pointed out a way to know for sure it is lined up. Here is a snippet from the post that I did. It requires two people or a lot of luck.
3) My timing mark was extremely hard to see and I wasn't sure I was right before removal. Ed had me pull off the fuel line at the 3pm position going to cylinder number 1. I saw the hole was lined up so that meant I had it correctly timed. I also used the big screwdriver on the flywheel as suggested by Lynn to get the timing lined up. Requires two people but it was easy.
See the rest of the post on my install and failures. Hope you can avoid my mistakes on that seal.
What I didn't mention after reinstalling the injection pump and using hard 6 months later is that occasionally the tractor would run out of fuel. Ed suggested that I clean out the return line by blowing i t out and this seemed to stop it. So, after reinstalling injection pump, I recommend that you blow out the return line to remove the injection pump fragments that ended up in the return line.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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calico190xt68
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Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 2:25pm |
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Clarification on the flywheel. There is a breathing hole in the cast iron directly under the flywheel that lets you stick a strong screwdriver in at an angle and pry turning the engine slightly. If you do it by yourself, you have to jump up and down a bunch. Use the fuel line at 3PM to verify you are correct though. I further qualify this by saying my tractor was a 190xt and a roosa pump, just in case there is a difference from your tractor.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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cbr_fx4
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Posted: 13 Sep 2018 at 7:11pm |
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Well i ended up taking the starter off to turn it over, as I need to get the starter checked over anyways since it's been acting up now and then. No problems getting it timed, thanks for the tip on looking in the #1 port to see it lined up. Both of the umbrella seals were all tore up, I'd imagine from the last guy that was into it before we got it. Wasnt hard to see why it was putting fuel in the oil. Couldn'tsee any flex ring material in the return elbow, but I think we'll get the pump gone over while it's off anyway. Any good tips to getting the pump back on without tearing up the new seals?
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calico190xt68
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 7:55am |
I had injpumped rebuild my pump and he was kind enough to loan me two tools. One is a metal sleeve that slips over the pump shaft that assists on slipping the rubber seal without rolling it. The other is a tool that looks like a tweaser that has a half round cup on it. This will hold the seal in place while you push the pump onto the shaft. As i pushed my pump onto the shaft WITHOUT this tool, I pinched it and didn't realize it until I found diesel fuel in the crankcase. If you feel any pressure when you push the pump onto the shaft, you have pinched or rolled the seal. Immediately start over with a new seal, if you feel any major resistance when pushing the pump on. You can purchase the tweaser tool from CASE IH if you don't want to borrow Eds. There are other approaches but this worked very well for me. You might click the link above, where I pretty thoroughly cover what I did. You should not reuse the washers for the 6 fuel lines but put new ones on too. Ed sends you everything you need, if you get him to rebuild it, which I highly recommend to use him. He is just as fast at getting the pumps back to you as local guys, plus he really knows Allis. I have now learned that the tractor needs to be started every 2-3 weeks to keep the fuel from sitting and disintegrating the injection pump. Even the old Allis manual suggested starting every 2-3 weeks before the new fuel was around.
On the starter issue, it might have been a bad or corroded ground. Mine did the same thing and I cleaned the negative ground cable and never had an issue since and that was 2 years ago. My tractor had been sitting around for years doing very little before I got it and corrosion occurred.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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cbr_fx4
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 9:42am |
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The pump will go in the mail to Ed today or tomorrow and he is kind enough to loan the tools to me when it comes back so that will be great.
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calico190xt68
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 11:03am |
I am sure Ed will take care of you. If you are lucky, he still has some of those bikini clad girlie calendars he sent me. Based on today's social environment, that calendar may be more rare and collectible in the future than Allis Chalmers tractors. 
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 11:31am |
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sorry, calendars are long gone! lol!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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ToddnwIl
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Joined: 07 May 2013
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 1:12pm |
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Don't worry your not missing much with Ed's calanders... they have a John deere on them!
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cbr_fx4
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 1:14pm |
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My 3 boys will like any calendar with a tractor of any color on it!
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calico190xt68
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 2:19pm |
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Next GOTO meeting, we need to contract with Bikini models to get Allis tractors and girls combined into one calendar. Nothing better than that. All boys, young and old ought to like that calendar!
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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MACK
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Posted: 14 Sep 2018 at 4:21pm |
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I have the special tool for the seals but don't like it. Start pump over shaft, use a dull pick and small morrow to start seal in pump.
On 180, unbolt exhaust manifold and raise up out of way. Take inj. lines loose from inj. leveling lines on pump until pump is removed. MACK
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