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180 Diesel- Bleeding Fuel Line |
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dertz19 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 88 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 01 Jan 2022 at 9:37pm |
Bought this tractor about 10 years ago. 1968. 500 loader. Low hours (3,200). Use it less than 50 hrs a year. This is my first diesel. It has ran like a top, so I haven't done a thing to it.
Started surging RPM's and quit last week moving snow(according to my dad- I wasn't there). Got it started again to drive into the shop. My inclination/ research led to think fuel filter would be the place to start. Replaced that, but long story short I didn't do the bleed/startup process correct initially so now I have to bleed the whole system (I do have an owner's manual- still didn't do it right- should have done more preliminary online research). Roosa Master fuel pump- I gather there is not a bleed screw on the unit? I've loosened up the injectors maybe 2-3 turns each (front two weren't all that tight and there's more grease build up there- would that be enough to have taken some air into the fuel line?). I've cranked over the starter maybe 6 times at 10-15 seconds each, and I still don't get fuel leaking out of them. Have I loosened the injectors too much or too little? Does it take more cranking of the starter than I've already done? Any advice appreciated!
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8480 |
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Doesn't a 180 have a hand primer pump? Loosen plug on top of fuel filter and pump til no more air. Close vent and pump some more. Should be able to hear air bubbles in fuel tank from return. Bubbles gone it should start. Should only need a couple lines loose at the most. It will bleed once running. You won't get a great amount from injector lines. People think they should be squirting but no. If you have fuel coming from line tighten it up.
Your description of dying sounds a lot like the governor flex ring failing and plugging return. If it's old and not been apart forever good chance that's it. Know what your doing before you pull the pump.Timing mark etc.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21377 |
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Always start at he sediment bowl by verifying you have TWO good streams of fuel gushing from the base with the glass bowl removed !!! If fuel can't get out of the tank it will never prime up !! Throw away the screen inside the glass bowl !!.
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DougG ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8247 |
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Theres a bleed bolt on the pump - right out front 1/2 inch wrench - you have to tap the injector lines to get them to bleed / get the air out
Edited by DougG - 02 Jan 2022 at 1:43pm |
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injpumpEd ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 5062 |
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As Steve said, the flex ring is likely failed and pieces plugging the return. Hence the surging. Leave the bolt Doug mentioned loose and see if it runs normal. It may be time for a pump servicing!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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dertz19 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 88 |
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Thanks all for the input. Helpful to know about the bleed screw on the pump- the owners and shop manuals don't seem to mention a thing about it that I can see.
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injpumpEd ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 5062 |
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It's not really intended to be a bleed screw, but it can serve the need, usually these aren't that hard to bleed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2971 |
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I've had my 185 lines apart a couple times and never had an issue bleeding or needd to loosen lines. Just I loosened the bolt on top the filter and pumped until the filter was full, then pumped some more. You can feel when fuel gets to the primer. Then pumped some more and it started fine.
Mine had a similar issue as yours. Ed fixed me up this spring.
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dertz19 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 88 |
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Update- finally got it running again. Hadn't thought of needing to use the glow plugs since it sits in a heated shop, but that's what I needed to do to finally get it started. Sputtered and RPM's whacked out for 4-5 seconds, then it evened out and ran perfect for an hour while I worked it moving snow with the loader and blower. Good to know about the flex ring issue in the fuel pump- if it happens again, I'll know where to look. There's some leakage/ moisture around the pump and return line- will monitor that more closely now. Thanks again for the all helpful input- I appreciate it!
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2971 |
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Glad you got it going. I always like to plug my tractors in if it's anywhere around 35 if they have a block heater. They start soo much better.
Edited by Allis dave - 12 Jan 2022 at 4:54pm |
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DougG ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8247 |
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Luv the sound of a 180 w/ the 301 diesel!
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