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Kurt WI 
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Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Location: Cascade WI
Points: 3246
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 Topic: 170 won’t start
Posted: 10 May 2019 at 5:22pm |
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My 170 gas won’t start. Cranks over fine and just tuned up last year. Other than coil. We checked it out and it seems to have a little spark but not a full spark. Replaced the coil the little wire from coil to inside of distributor but didn’t gain any more spark. Also got new cap and rotor along with condenser. All didn’t help but got it to fire and run 20 to 30 seconds and now no spark. What am I missing? What where should I look next? Thanks
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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020
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Burgie
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Scottsburg, IN
Points: 1192
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 4:48am |
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Try a set of new points. They don`t make them like the used to. Had a D14 forklift that did that.
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"Burgie"
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Boss Man
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Joined: 03 Mar 2018
Location: Greenleaf, WI
Points: 617
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 6:04am |
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Did you put a new set of copper core wires on it when you tuned it?
Edited by Boss Man - 11 May 2019 at 6:05am
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 25274
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 6:19am |
use real fine(800) grit sandpaper to clean the points, try again if still weak spark, put ammeter in series between coil and dist. you should get 4 amps with point closed, 0 when open. my gut feeling is points are corroded, need to be cleaned, especially if it sat for awhile. hmm...thinking while typing, if there's a ballast resistor, then you need a coil that says 'ballast resistor required'. If you replaced with a 12 v coil 'no ballast ressitor' needed, then you won't get 12V at coil and get a weak spark.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Kurt WI
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Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Location: Cascade WI
Points: 3246
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 7:52am |
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I did get a new set of points but didn’t put then in yet as old set looks fine. I did clean them up also and seem to get a good spark at the points. As far as the plug wires go no the tune up kit was the silicone infused kind. Jay what do you mean a ballast resistor? Where would I even look for it? The coil I got did say with internal resistor though.
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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020
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Kurt WI
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Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Location: Cascade WI
Points: 3246
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 9:34am |
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Cleaned the points again, it started ran about 45 seconds and quit now no spark again.
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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020
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Alvin M
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Location: PA
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 9:36am |
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under the gas tank
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 9:49am |
 Kurt WI wrote:
Cleaned the points again, it started ran about 45 seconds and quit now no spark again. |
Where did you get the condenser? Go to NAPA and buy a Blue Streak condenser to put in it. I went thru this same thing a few years ago with 2 different "New" condensers, and ended up finding an old one I had saved in a box in the garage. Not trouble since. It can't hurt, to check the wire from the coil to the distrib, specially where it goes thru the side of the distrib. If that gets a crack and stats jumping to ground, it can be a hit and miss thing that is hard to locate.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 11 May 2019 at 9:51am
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 11:31am |
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You positive it has fuel because it sure sounds like just enough time to empty the bowl and shut off? When it dies remove the drain plug from carb to be sure there is fuel in bowl and that you have good flow.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Kurt WI
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Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Location: Cascade WI
Points: 3246
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 4:49pm |
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Ok guys it runs! I read on different forum about a 180 gas and same issue. The guy used a jumper wire from battery to coil. I gave that a try and it started right up. Ok I thought it’s nothing in the distributor but the resistor or the key switch itself or the wiring. Let it run 5 min with wire just touching battery and coil so battery would charge a little. But anyways took the wire off stayed running and left it running putting the side shields back on then shut it off. Let it sit 10 min started right back up and worked great the rest of the day today! Now what in the world was it? Totally has me baffled!!
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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 11 May 2019 at 5:01pm |
I'm thinking the resistor is 'somewhere' between the ign switch and the coil+ post. The reason it starts is that you bypassed the oriiginal resistor. That allows full power to the coil...= proper spark and it starts. Removing the jumper puts the resistor back in, lows the power to coil but there's just enough to let it run. Odds are if you tried to pull a plow or try it in Winter..., she'll bog down and die.
Since the coil says 'internal resistor' , rewire the 'jumper' permanently.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Don(MO)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bates City MO.
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Posted: 12 May 2019 at 9:45am |
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Clean the two leads on the resistor and might need to check the resistor too.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Kurt WI
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Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Location: Cascade WI
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Posted: 12 May 2019 at 8:02pm |
Don(MO) wrote:
Clean the two leads on the resistor and might need to check the resistor too. |
Yep I’m gonna order one this week. Hopefully it stays running to get my alfalfa in the ground before it rains again.
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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 34640
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Posted: 12 May 2019 at 8:49pm |
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grab a resistor of the firewall of an ol chebby an get your seed in...
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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captaindana
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Fort Plain, NY
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Posted: 13 May 2019 at 5:34am |
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Kurt for what it's worth I have had 2 tractors which would quit for no clear reason over the years; a CA and my 170. With nothing else found amiss I replaced the key starter switch in the 170 and never had another issue with it. On my CA with belly mower I noticed it only had quitting issues on steeper hill sides. A new on / off switch cured that one also. Weird but true!!! Dana
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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana
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Kurt WI
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Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Location: Cascade WI
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Posted: 03 Jun 2019 at 8:13pm |
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Well it won’t start again! Put new resistor in and nothing! Sat in shed the last 3 weeks and today finally dry enough to plant corn and it started moved it out of shed 50 feet and just quit. Frustrating to say the least!
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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020
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Stan IL&TN
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Location: Elvis Land
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Posted: 03 Jun 2019 at 8:22pm |
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I would verify there is fuel in the carb bowl if for no other reason than to eliminate it as a possibility. My 170 would get out of the barn and die. Removed drain on carb and no fuel came out. Smacked the side of carb with screwdriver handle and it unstuck the float and fuel flowed. Cleaned carb fixed the issue.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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john(MI)
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Location: SE MI
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Posted: 03 Jun 2019 at 11:29pm |
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Ignition Switch flakey.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 7:43am |
FWIW NAPA ignition switches were giving me fits! Went to local marine dealer and bought a fairly low cost plastic more weather proof switch. Haven't had problems yet. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet, 66 F100.
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JoeO(C-MO)
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Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Location: 3rd Rock > Su
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 7:52am |
It takes several tries to read the follow up posts all the way down without placing my hand on the left side of the screen to keep from being distracted by an Avatar. 
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D10 III, D15 II 3 pt, D15 II SC, 170 Gas w/shuttle, 175 Diesel UI ROPS, 185 w ROPS. AC 653 w/6 way blade, ROPS
AC 615 Ind. WD45 running/Parts.
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frnkeore
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Joined: 07 May 2019
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 10:53am |
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Yes! I have that same trouble with Sugarmakers avatar, too.
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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Kurt WI
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Location: Cascade WI
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 12:59pm |
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So carb has fuel in it like the 1st time checked. Got on tractor choked it and started right up, ran 10-15 seconds and quit. Now just cranks over again. It could be the switch I suppose but it was replaced only 2 years ago. How about the voltage regulator? Does it have anything to do with ignition? For what’s it worth it does look rusty. But I never thought that it really had anything to do with ignition. Other than charging.
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WD D17D 170 190xt 190xtIII 200 7020
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saele
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 2:02pm |
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Wire it up again from battery to coil and get your corn planted. Sounds to me like there may be 2 registers to your coil. 1 built into your coil and 1 between coil and switch. If so when you place a wire from your battery directly to your coil you are getting the correct voltage to your coil.
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joelsplace
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Location: Northlake TX
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 4:18pm |
Doesn't it need a resistor to keep from burning up the points? Voltage regulator just controls charging the battery. It can be totally dead and still run fine until the battery runs down.
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1975 7040 w/Power Director
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Gregor
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 4:39pm |
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Voltage regulator is only for the charging system. Another thing to check iss there any slop in the distributor shaft. Side to side play. Doesn't take much and you lose your point gap pretty quick. Buddy of mine had very similiar problem on his red tractor. New distributor and electronic ign and its runs like the day it came off the line. Also how you checking spark. I prefer a spark tester tool. If using a plug out of the hole, it may shoot a spark, but it is harder to get a spark under compression.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 5:42pm |
joelsplace wrote:
Doesn't it need a resistor to keep from burning up the points?
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NO! A 12 volt system, with a 12 volt coil doesn't need any added resistor. No system needs an add on resistor if the coil matches the system voltage.
Some old time systems had 12 volt, with a 6 volt coil. The resistor was bypassed for starting purposes and the resistor was used in-line while running.
If you add a resistor , where it isn't needed, you're just asking for starting issues from a weak spark.
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joelsplace
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Posted: 04 Jun 2019 at 6:04pm |
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Good to know. In the automotive world coils marked 12V aren't. They still need a resistor and actually run around 8V. At least all of them I've seen that were for points ignitions were that way.
Edited by joelsplace - 04 Jun 2019 at 6:06pm
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1975 7040 w/Power Director
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