170 power director

It'll do that when the oil is cold. It's normal. I let my tractors warm up at least 15 minutes when it's cold before I drive them. It can be bad for seals to run stone cold.

It doesn't seem to matter whether it's warm or cold. I let my tractor run for a half an hour in temperatures below 30 before operating. At its very best it will hold the tractor like a parking brake on a hill.

303 tractor fluid. Oil has 40 hrs on it.

No I don't think so. Both of my D17's do not act like this. Dave, if you have a wd45 that acts like that you have a serious problem

Just had my hand clutch pulled out of the WD45 a year ago. No problems. I have 80-90 gear oil in the WD45 though which never really thins down.

My 190 does the same thing until it's warmed up. Sitting running it won't warm up until I'm actually using it. Usually once I've drove it for about 10 minutes and the trany warms up it will stop completely. It warms up much faster using the snow blower. It won't creap if I let the blower down and after a few minutes it won't creap with the blower lifted. Neither of my WD 45s creep at all . Both have the clutch clearance set at .035 and have hytrans in the clutch compartment and 80-90 it the transmition.

Ok... I'm reluctant to but I'll take your word for it. Seems out of adjustment. I understand how wet clutch systems work. I've been a heavy machinery mechanic for 17 plus years. Actually for a former AC and FA dealer. Just never had one act like this. Thanks guys

My 1962 D17 creaps even when warmed up. drop the rear blade to the ground it stops. Both of my brothers series 4's and 170 do too.

Edited by D17JIM2 - 24 Jan 2017 at 11:39am

I bought this tractor in April of 2015. It has always been like this and I usually just take the tractor out of transmission gear out of habit now. I'm assuming these shims are the ones inside the cover, not the shims under the lever. It's not really that big of an issue, I just want to make sure that I don't torch the power director.

You can look at the 6 bolt heads on the service cover. If there's one of them that has never had the paint broken, it's never been worked on. Even a repaint job will show if there's been a wrench on bolt heads, unless the bolt head was sand blasted or replaced with new.

I am no mechanic and have only operated D-series tractors , basically same power director though as a 170 .On our farm growing up none of our D-17's or D-19 creeped with power director in neutral . They were used everyday and I think that keeps the wet clutch discs "polished" . Long after moving off the farm I bought a piece of land and started looking for a D-17 . I looked at a bunch of them for sale and at auctions . Every one of them had what I considered severe creep (have to press brake to keep from moving in neutral position). I was convinced something was wrong with those and wanted no part of them . After finding this site and communicating with people much smarter than me I believe the creeping comes from them sitting and not being used .Someone told me to go out and bale a few thousand haybales with a roto baler and that will cure the creeping . Now if something is out of adjustment it could cause the creep .But from what I have seen posted on here and my own personal experience I would think it just needs played with more .

Also I was taught as a young operator to only use foot clutch for shifting gears and engaging, disengaging PTO .And use power director to make tractor move .Basically put power director in neutral , press foot clutch , change gears , release foot clutch and then engage power director .It was explained to me that the foot clutch would last longer . Now you can leave the power director engaged and only use foot clutch but just relaying what I was taught , probably wrong but I can't get out of the habit now . I have an elderly neighbor a few miles away and he leaves the power director on his D-17 in the low position , never touches it. only uses the foot clutch . I asked him why and he says he never had a hand clutch on the Farmall M he grew up on and wouldn't know how to use it . ????

Edited by Pat the Plumber CIL - 24 Jan 2017 at 5:59pm

The 303 oil from different companies, are not the same. Use the AGCO 821XL oil. That 303 oil is for JD tractors, not the same viscosity as the AGCO oil.  

Big orange- our tractor fluid is compatible with A-C fluid. I made sure to get affirmation before I bought a barrel.

Sorry, last post was meant for DSeries4...

Big Orange wrote: The 303 oil from different companies, are not the same. Use the AGCO 821XL oil. That 303 oil is for JD tractors, not the same viscosity as the AGCO oil.

If it's the cheap 303 fluid you get at farm stores for 17 bucks per 5 gal. You're getting just what you paid for, (cheap oil). I would try some good oil as Big Orange sez. Any 303 I have seen is thicker and does not have the additives that the better oils have.