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170 Hard Start

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Red Bank View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Apr 2018
Location: Germanton NC
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    Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 10:44pm
I bought a diesel 170 in September. When I bought it started and ran fine. I cleaned it up and drove it around the farm and parked it. I went to start it the other day and it would turn over but not fire. Thought it was out of fuel so I filled the tank, cracked the fuel lines and got it running. Figured it was out of fuel. Ran bush hog for two hours and cut it off, went back to crank it and almost didn't start again. Drove back to the barn and cut it off and went to crank it again and the same problem. Shot a little ether to get it going. So the question is has my injection pump went bad?
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JC-WI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 1:38am
Change your filters for starters... specially if it has been sitting for awhile...
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 4:40am
Check the injector pump too. Make sure it hasn't slipped and the timing changed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 8:49am
The small primer pump on the right side of the engine could be on its way out too.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 9:19am
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

The small primer pump on the right side of the engine could be on its way out too.

Yes. If it can suck air the pump looses prime.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 9:45am
CAV pumps typically won't "just go bad" lol! Maybe it's gummy inside, and one or both of the plungers are sticking. Once running, did it seem to run correctly, and deliver the power it should? The CAV head does tend to wear out faster than a Roosa head due to the larger diameter of the Roosa rotor. Neither one like dirt lol!
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Bank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 7:53pm
Once it starts it seems to have good power but it being the first 170 I have been on I am comparing it to my 5040 and my 200 and it seems to fit right in th middle. Things I have noticed are the lift pump is new the starter has been rebuilt and the battery is new so I am not sure if previous ownwr was battling the same problem or not and I can't ask him he is deceased. We cranked it up today and it's got a real long crank time and about the time you think the starter is overheating and the battery is about to die it will fire. One more question is it worth while to install an intake Heater?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 12:23am
Maybe need the injectors rebuilt?
or the pump is weak?
 Or the engine is just plain tired?
Try having the fuel tank full? shouldn't be losing prime if the fuel is above the whole injection system...
  Is the primary lift pump actually working? crack the line leaving the pump and see if it has pressure there... had to rap the check valve assembly back into one pump... and another was all rusted out, but that fuel system was gas and tank was leaking water in.

 Neighbor had a 175 and it was hard to start. He developed a bad head gasket... so we took the head off, I checked the injectors and put new tips in and set them up, head was planed and a valve job. Put the head on and it started and run much better... this was during the summer. Then it started getting cold and it wouldn't start at all. We rebuilt the starter and at 28 degrees with a good hot battery, and no either, it started. Told him to plug it in instead of using ether. 
  So when everything is right, things do work. 
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 7:39am
My question for you is, while its cranking but not firing, is it smoking? Smoking indicates the fuel injection system is trying to do it's job, but shows the cylinders are not building enough compression, therefore not enough heat to ignite the fuel. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Bank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 8:00am
I have not noticed smoke when cranking until it fires up. I filled the fuel tank Friday because I thought that might be the problem. I have noticed the strainer assembly under the tank is wet but it's not dripping or running off the transmission but I figured the lift pump would overcome that if it was sucking air there?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 8:13am
Since this seems to have started being noticeable to you after it sat a few months, I'd bet the fuel system is gummed up and sticking. When you shut it off, do you leave the cable in off position, or back to run so it's ready to start next time? 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 9:16am
agree with Ed, probably a sticking metering valve... run some strong concentration of cleaner /lube or  ATF... see if that helps.. can't hurt before you start $$   I had the same issue on a 175 - after cranking  we always left the throttle at about half and the cable  IN the run position … of course it confuses truck drivers who load out grain with a 185 and 175 - they can't remember which is which as they are opposite. So I put a new decal on them - seems they gave up on reading....
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 9:29am
JC,my 220 will loose prime somehow after setting for long periods.The fuel tank is full and next spring when I want to start it,if I don't pump the hand primer up,it won't smoke and it won't start. I have no external leak visable but the sediment bowl area is suspect. It didn't always do this,just the later years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Bank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2018 at 12:15am
I leave throttle at idle and push the shutoff back in after the engine stops. And yes jumping from the 200 to the 170 I have to stop and think about it. I have tried hitting the primer pump a few strokes before firing but that doesn't seem to help. I am running Howes fuel treatment in it after I filled the tank Friday.
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