finally building the D17

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   I've finally got to where i can start building my D17 puller and i wanted to ask again what the thoughts would be on the general idea.M code engine, bored to 4.375 w/ case 1150 sleeves and pistons
grinding the crank to 2" (half because the crank i have had a spun bearing, half for the stroke)
i haven't het figured what i need for the connecting rods as they're going to need to be custom with the 1.5" piston pin and 2" crank journal- ideally id like to get as close to the head as i can, id like to achieve 12-14:1.
I'm planning on larger valves but on not yet sure how much oversized i can go.
i already have a tall head for better ignition
i haven't yet figured out my cam but im planning on working the gov to get 2k rpm and id like peak power between 1600 and 2k
im working on getting the finals and axles out of a 180. they will need some work to fit in a d17 but that work can all be done in house

where does everyone think im lacking or need to do more research on. 

a question to those who have bored one of these engines. 
what kind of issues do you run into with the sleeves already being past the main bearings? i was looking at mine and its cast into the block to have room for the sleeves to already be recessed into the sides of the block on the far sides of cylinder 1 and 2.

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D17Dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 21 Oct 2026 Location: oh Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote D17Dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: finally building the D17 Posted: 21 Oct 2026 at 9:48pm
	I've finally got to where i can start building my D17 puller and i wanted to ask again what the thoughts would be on the general idea. M code engine, bored to 4.375 w/ case 1150 sleeves and pistons grinding the crank to 2" (half because the crank i have had a spun bearing, half for the stroke) i haven't het figured what i need for the connecting rods as they're going to need to be custom with the 1.5" piston pin and 2" crank journal- ideally id like to get as close to the head as i can, id like to achieve 12-14:1. I'm planning on larger valves but on not yet sure how much oversized i can go. i already have a tall head for better ignition i haven't yet figured out my cam but im planning on working the gov to get 2k rpm and id like peak power between 1600 and 2k im working on getting the finals and axles out of a 180. they will need some work to fit in a d17 but that work can all be done in house where does everyone think im lacking or need to do more research on. a question to those who have bored one of these engines. what kind of issues do you run into with the sleeves already being past the main bearings? i was looking at mine and its cast into the block to have room for the sleeves to already be recessed into the sides of the block on the far sides of cylinder 1 and 2.

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23656	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Oct 2026 at 8:46am
	I always used straight sleeve material .125" thick and placed a .025" step at the bottom of the block and sleeve to hold the sleeves up. My machine shop guy always bored the block a little off center on the sleeve bores to make things fit better strength wise. I went with 4.630" finished bore. My pistons were custom made by Ross and used .990" tool steel pins the same as a nitro burner drag car used. The build cost of custom pistons is quite affordable and that way I had the "Power Crater" bowl. Custom pistons allowed me to use a stock connecting rod of my choice and get the compression distance exactly where I wanted to be...no compromise. I always made a girdle plate for the center main bearing cap. Why are you using 175/180/185 final drives ??? Edited by DrAllis - 22 Oct 2026 at 9:28am

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23656	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Oct 2026 at 8:33am
	You asked for opinions and advice on your build. I pulled a D-17 for 40+ years, so I have quite a few things on my mind. I remember things that worked well and things that maybe didn't work out so well. I have no idea what type or class of pulling you are delving into. I assume "antique" pulling ?? with limited top RPM's ?? Anyway, it's your project and you can certainly do as you want. But, there is no reason whatsoever to be thinking 175/180/185 final drives are necessary. My tractor was nearly 400 cubes and was over 100 HP and never had a final drive failure in 40 years. So, go ahead and use the final drives you are talking about, but they aren't needed. Your choice of piston and sleeve leaves a lot to be desired in my opinion. Why such a heavy diesel piston with an 1 1/2" pin?? and then I'm assuming trying to use the mating JI Case sleeve to go with it ?? OEM sleeves like that will be too long and honestly waaaay too thick for what you're trying to achieve. Thin sleeves allow for a larger bore and can leave the block structure stronger. Automotive type pistons and pins are lighter weight. You will have difficulty coming up with any conn rod to work with a 2 inch crank journal and 1 1/2" pin. Also, you will probably never get your compression where you want it to be the way you're going about it. There would be nothing more discouraging than spending all that $$$$ and finding out you only have 150 psi of compression instead of 300 psi, which is where you want to be. Use D17/D19 diesel rods and custom build a piston to get your compression distance where you need it to be. Custom built pistons from Ross would be a far better investment than custom built connecting rods that are 2 inch x 1 1/2" and heavy. Good luck with your build. Edited by DrAllis - 23 Oct 2026 at 9:27am

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 4259	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Oct 2026 at 10:19am
	the next time i do any thing that isnt stock i am going to start with la sleave and go from their

D17Dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 21 Oct 2026 Location: oh Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote D17Dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 1 hour 41 minutes ago at 5:14pm
	I apologize for the delayed response, i was out of state working and didn't have computer access. you are current with the antique class, ill e running against mostly Farmall H, M, 400, 450, allis d17 and john Deere g from the 5500-9500 class, though once it hits the 9k, its only the Farmall 400s, 450s and d17s that get top places. its not heavily enforced but stock rpm is what everyone claims- 2k is about the max i would e ale to run without being too obviously modified. when you say you added a .025" step at the bottom of the block, do you mean machining the outside of the sleeve .025" smaller to meet the bottom of the block? with machining the ores slightly off center, does that ring in and extra crank work or is there enough sliding space between the piston, piston pin and connecting rod to not be a significant issue? i do want to stick with the 4.375" bore, smaller than what you've done but for my first build, id like to stay on the more conservative side. if i can stay with the power crater design, i would like to- until this point ive been trying to find off the shelf parts i can use for this build to make it a little simpler but if custom pistons aren't much more expensive then that may be the better route to go. the case 1150 pistons where the only kits i could find that fit the Bore im aiming for. when you have your pistons made, do you use a more modern design similar to a chevy 454 or do you stick with the same overall design as oem with the long skirt? thats also what lead me if the direction of the diesel pistons was the long skirt- i believe at these lower rpm ranges it would help keep the piston more stable. how much did you're pistons and sleeve cost? its not a huge concern ATP but id like to keep my engine cost Below 6k. the girdle plate is a good idea, ive seen if referenced if other posts and i plan in doing that. i plan on using 185 finals and axles because of a post i was had seen you made about the gear ratios where you said the 185 finals had a 6% slower gearing aswell as being far more stout, you've said before that the finals where the weak points for these tractors and for the price i can get a set, i figured i may aswell.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23656	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 42 minutes ago at 6:13pm
	The competition I am used to dealing with, a D-17 starts at 4500 lbs and quits at 5500 lbs. My engine was almost 400 cubes. A Farmall M-400-450 can and do reach 600 cubes. Now, at 5500 lbs and a 4 mph speed limit and equal sized (15.5 x 38) rear tires, I can handle many of them. But, I would never consider any heavier than that. I'm not sure even the low side of 1st gear will be slow enough for your engine at 8000 lbs let alone 9500 lbs.*** 2,200 RPM isn't a problem if the governor is done right. ***If my sleeve O.D. is 4.500" (for example only) The bottom O.D. is made 4.450" up to near center of where the sleeve Orings would be. The block is them machined to accept the sleeve at a slip fit and loctite the sleeves into the block. The sleeve overall length is the same as the OEM sleeve. You will not find any OEM pistons with a Power Crater bowl. My custom pistons are automotive in design with .990" pins and arrow skits like a BBChevy would be. I haven't priced pistons and sleeves in quite some time, but I'm telling you even if someone GAVE you the 1150 Case pistons and sleeves, it will never run like a properly compression ratio'd (12 to 13 to 1) engine with correctly made parts. I told you what conn rod to use and build around that rod length. As far as the 180/185 final drives go, OK fine, you will not tear them up. BUT, if you weigh this chassis down as heavy as I think you're going to, you'll probably (eventually) tear up 1st gear in the transmission and/or the ring and pinion. They aren't made for going that slow with more HP and weight than they were designed for.