Ford edge brakes

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   Hey guys wondering if you've ever run into something like i did this weekend.  

2013 ford edge. Brakes worked great right at first but if you held them say your at a stop sign they would steadily sink to the floor and the brake holding power would go away. 

Must be a bad master cylinder.  Removed it which was a chore on its own.  Got new master and bench bleed it with block off plugs where the lines would go. Put it together and absolutely no brakes at all.  Dad comes to help and he suggested to bleed the master the old school ways with lines going from the ports back into the resvoir. Put it all together and still nothing.  

Crack the lines loose at the master and use my power bleeder. Seems good.  Went around to each wheel and power bled them.  Still nothing.  Had dad in the car pumped it up 3 times cracked each master cylinder line. No help.

Dad asked about the abs.  So we did a power bleed of that using a scan tool. We then finished the night with the pump 3 times hold and I Crack the line. 

None of this helped.  I have no brakes at all. What could I have done wrong.  I stared with a vehicle that I would be comfy going 80 in and stopping.  I wouldn't have felt comfy depending on then holding after an extended period time of holding the pedal but at least it was drivable. I'm at the point I wouldn't take this over 2 miles per hour. 

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bobkyllo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: minnesota Points: 1578	Post Options Post Reply Quote bobkyllo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Ford edge brakes Posted: 12 hours 30 minutes ago at 3:04am
	Hey guys wondering if you've ever run into something like i did this weekend. 2013 ford edge. Brakes worked great right at first but if you held them say your at a stop sign they would steadily sink to the floor and the brake holding power would go away. Must be a bad master cylinder. Removed it which was a chore on its own. Got new master and bench bleed it with block off plugs where the lines would go. Put it together and absolutely no brakes at all. Dad comes to help and he suggested to bleed the master the old school ways with lines going from the ports back into the resvoir. Put it all together and still nothing. Crack the lines loose at the master and use my power bleeder. Seems good. Went around to each wheel and power bled them. Still nothing. Had dad in the car pumped it up 3 times cracked each master cylinder line. No help. Dad asked about the abs. So we did a power bleed of that using a scan tool. We then finished the night with the pump 3 times hold and I Crack the line. None of this helped. I have no brakes at all. What could I have done wrong. I stared with a vehicle that I would be comfy going 80 in and stopping. I wouldn't have felt comfy depending on then holding after an extended period time of holding the pedal but at least it was drivable. I'm at the point I wouldn't take this over 2 miles per hour.

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john2189 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Minerva,Ohio Points: 463	Post Options Post Reply Quote john2189 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 hours 8 minutes ago at 5:26am
	Vacuum brake booster or hose bad? Edited by john2189 - 10 hours 7 minutes ago at 5:27am
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jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 25505	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 9 hours 15 minutes ago at 6:19am
	hmm, if you can pump the brake pedal 3-4 times , pedals high, hold, then slowly goes down tot he floor, I'd say BAD rubbers in the master cylinder. It's feeding back ,around the 'loose' rubber from the outgoing side back into the reservoir side. I had that happen on my '57 Willys. pro brake shop ( #1 in Hamilton ) rebuilt the master cylinder, dang near killed me going down a steep hill.... anyway went to local parts store bought a NEW unit with 1/4" of dust on it.... worked 100%. hint.... if you have ZERO leaks..the oil HAS to be going 'somewhere'..round and round the rubber , is my best guess.
	3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water

bobkyllo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: minnesota Points: 1578	Post Options Post Reply Quote bobkyllo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 7 hours 27 minutes ago at 8:07am
	Ì also thought the new master cylinder was bad. So i went and got another one with no luck

Tbone95 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12514	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tbone95 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 7 hours 15 minutes ago at 8:19am
	This is crazy. I’m not any help at all but following. Because all I can think is that it’s gotta be something really stupid! Please keep us posted!!!

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 93320	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 6 hours 18 minutes ago at 9:16am
	Seems like you have eliminated the master cyl and the trapped air.......... --------- What Causes a Complete Loss of Brake Power? If your brake pedal drops straight to the floor or you lose all stopping power, the problem is not a bad ABS. A total loss of brakes is usually caused by: A ruptured or rusted-out brake fluid line (causing a severe fluid leak). A failed master cylinder (which builds and holds the hydraulic pressure). Large amounts of air trapped in the brake lines. Stuck or leaking internal ABS isolation valves in rare instances.
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steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 93320	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 6 hours 14 minutes ago at 9:20am
	Maybe pull the ABS fuse and then test it... When you start the car, the ELECTRICIAL to the ABS is ON.. When you are pumping the pedal with engine off, NO ABS.. ----------- Yes, the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) valves in a car are electrically controlled, even though they manage hydraulic brake fluid. How It Works Solenoid Valves: The valves inside the ABS hydraulic control unit (HCU) are solenoids (electromagnets). Electrical Control: The ABS computer (ECU) sends rapid electrical signals to open, close, or hold these solenoid valves dozens of times per second when it detects a wheel locking up. Hydraulic Action: While the valves themselves are triggered electrically, they control the physical flow and pressure of the hydraulic brake fluid moving to your wheels. Edited by steve(ill) - 6 hours 14 minutes ago at 9:20am
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

bobkyllo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: minnesota Points: 1578	Post Options Post Reply Quote bobkyllo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 4 hours 55 minutes ago at 10:39am
	One other thing that comes to mind. Push rod length? Is it possible that could be off so far to give me this trouble? Seems odd that 2 cylinders would both be that far out of adjustment. I. Haven't adjusted a push rod in ages. I will give the fuse a try. I just hate to give up but it gets to a point how much time can I afford to put into this

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 93320	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 1 hour 58 minutes ago at 1:36pm
	master cylinder and trapped air are both "old school problems"... normally an easy fix... thats why i suggest looking more into the ABS... it can have more Hidden problems.. and you apparently had some problem BEFORE you changed the Master. ... but checking the rod stroke is a good idea.. should be able to compare the OLD master to the NEW if you still have it..
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.