UC transmisson rebuild

OK.  I know not many people will ever get into this but my UC was quite noisy and had a lot of play inside.  Since i have turned it into a puller i decided to go through the whole works.  U and early A would be similar except for the bevel gear shaft and the  addition of the crossshaft.  Late A looks to have quite a few changes by looking at parts book.

My bearings were Timken cup and cones and New Departure ball bearings.  I used an online bearing house and was able to source all the bearings.  New and NOS bearings are available.  The Timkens I could get at my local carquest but not the large ball bearings.

Part #s
These are all current #'s.  Some of the original Part #'s will still cross but I made sure to pull all the old bearings before ordering.  Make sure to have a service manual as there is a specific order for removal and assembly.  Trust me.  Most of this was done in my home shop where i have less tools and its a mess.  You will want a press for the bevel gear shaft/bearing.

input shaft bearing  1308L 
input shaft seal 473367 National
countershaft front.  cup 417 cone 414
countershaft rear.  cup 336 cone 332
mainshaft front.  1210
mainshaft rear.  1211
bevel gear shaft.  1311

Case placed on makeshift table and disassembled.



All the internals through the parts washer.

Case head.  If you look closely you can see in the bottom picture first gear was rubbing on the case head.


Main shaft with bearing and holder installed.  There is a snap ring groove near the top of the shaft just behind the splines.  My snap ring was gone and this was causing all the play as the gear cluster was no longer tight.


Bevel gear shaft and bearing mounted in plate.  Notice its a bevel gear not a true ring and pinion.  A splined coupler (not shown)  is used between the mainshaft and bevel gear shaft.



Counter shaft.  The first reduction is also the belt pulley drive gear and is pressed on and utilizes a keyway.  Mine fell off when the bearing was removed and went to the machine shop as the shaft needed to be built up and the key was worn.  The splined gears slide all the way off.


All internals reassembled.  Ready to bolt up to rear end.  The tube and jam nuts between 2nd and 3rd gear are used to tighten everything between the end bearings  by way of the snap ring that I was missing.  external 1" 7/8


This transmission is a bear compared to something like a wc.  Make sure all your bearings will fit the shafts before trying to assemble!
Enjoy.

I had not considered switching shifters but i do believe it would work.  i dont recall any difference in the parts book but i dont have access right now to say for sure.  Only issue I can think of is to access 4th on the UC i have to pull out/up on the shifter as the slot inside seems to be slightly higher/taller ( to prevent accidental shift I assume) than the others.  not sure how this works on the regular U shifter as I have not taken one off before.  You would need to grow your arm much longer or modify the U shifter handle though.    My U does not shift easy but it has been setting a long time and is not currently running.

I meant to say differences in the shifting parts of the transmission vs the different shifters in the parts book. 


Edited by CAL(KS) - 26 Jun 2017 at 11:37am

Thanks for the post Joel...awesome detail.

Thanks again, guy up around Middletown Mo. used to have some U's sittin around. I may give it a try when I get time.