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WC won't run unless choke pulled in-Advice??

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nowaktj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nowaktj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WC won't run unless choke pulled in-Advice??
    Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 11:13am
Hi guys,
 
I just put a mish mash of parts together (engine out of one WC, carb off of WD (TSX-442)).  The head had its valves and seats ground.
 
The tank was just lined with tank sealer, I made a new hard line from tank to carb and even installed an inline Fram fuel filter. 
 
In addition, I rebuilt that carb after soaking it in carb cleaner and installed a new throttle shaft with new seals.
 
Now the tractor just will not run unless I have the choke at 4/5 close.
 
I am no expert at rebuilding carbs...is there potentially something I did there that would cause this?  Any other ideas?
 
Thanks
Terry
D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 11:25am
You could still have dirt somewhere partly blocking the power jet of feeder tube. You could also have to large of a venturi which would cause less vacuum to draw fuel into the engine.
With the choke on any amount you will cause more vacuum to draw fuel.  

Edited by Dick L - 15 Jan 2012 at 11:26am
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 11:30am
Sometimes soaking is not enough to remove all blockage. Sometimes it is necessary to run the correct size of drill bit into the holes, spinning it with your fingers only, to remove the crud as well as using small cleaning brushes.
 
 
Just remembered that I had a manifold that had an internal leak due to a core shift when it was manufactured. It had a very thin area which blew thru.
 
That was a real head scratcher.
 


Edited by Dick L - 15 Jan 2012 at 11:36am
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 11:55am
With it running spray the throtle shaft seals with starting fluid. If it clears up or even changes it's probably the new seals. I put a new throtle shaft and seals in my 45 and had the same problems. A kind feller on this forum sent me some new seals and it fixed it. HTH Thad
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 1:29pm
Take out the inlet adapter that has a screen behind it and soak it clean. It can stop fuel flow completely when fully varnished.

And it just may need adjustment, if it has a high speed adjustment. Otherwise its running lean and that could be a sign of too low a fuel level in the float bowl caused bu restrictions or an improper float arm adjustment.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 2:44pm
Did the head, block, valves, pushrods, and rocker towers all come from the same engine?  I don't recall if the head height and pushrods caused some incompatibility that would prevent or cause too much lift.  A cranking compression test may reveal it.

Check ignition timing, and if you've done anything to disturb the valve timing, re-check that too.  Make sure (if you're using a distributor) that the centrifugal advance mechanism is functioning properly, that your point gaps are all correct.  If using a mag, make sure that the impuler mechanism is functioning as it should, because it controls timing during the impulse-stage.

Make sure your exhaust isn't plugged with some foriegn or domestic object.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pa.Pete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 5:11pm
I just rebuilt the carb on my WC and had the same problem. I thought it wasn't getting enough fuel and I kept trying to adjust the carb without any positive change, someone suggested to check the timing, so we did and it was only out a little but now it runs perfect. I don't understand it because it sure seemed like a fuel problem but it runs great now.
Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 6:37pm
Lots of good tips including searching for intake leaks with a combustible fluid(WD40 works) and double check your timing.  If that doesn't show a problem, take the plug out of the bottom of the carb bowl and see if you get a solid stream of gas for a minute or so. If not, take the add on fuel filter off and depend on the sediment bowl and clean the inlet screen if it has one. It worked well for 50-60 years.If that filter isn't rated for gravity feed it may restrict the flow enough to cause problems.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2012 at 6:55pm
its pretty simple . stoich is off not enough fuel for the unrestricted air . restrict the air by closing the choke and you have a air fuel ratio it will run on. so if you want it to run with all the air it can then you need to get all the fuel passages open.
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