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Power director clutch I am confused | 
 
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   somebody  
   
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   Joined: 03 Jun 2010 Location: western NC Points: 111  | 
  
   
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     Topic: Power director clutch I am confusedPosted: 04 Oct 2010 at 1:26pm  | 
 
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   When adjusting the power director clutch the book says to measure distanc between applied plate and pressure plate both engaged and disengaged but when I checked them the distance never changes am i doing this right? they are the two thick plates on each end of the slot aren't they?
 
   
  Thanks for anything you can do to help a poor confused soul. 
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   FredW  
   
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   Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: N. Weston,OH Points: 588  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 5:30pm | 
 
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   73 hits and nobody knows, and I cant help either.
    
   
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   Brian G.  NY  
   
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   Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2269  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 5:58pm | 
 
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   Well, there might be someone who knows, but it ain't east to splain. 
   
  I think I figured out how to do it but only after reading information in my A-C repair manual, supplemented by information and pictures from the I & T manual. Someone posted pics of pages from a better A-C manual than mine within the last week. Somebody know how to search for it?  | 
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   Brian G.  NY  
   
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   Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2269  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 6:15pm | 
 
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   Oops,.......it wasn't a posting on this site after all. Go to YT and the Allis-Chalmers site. 
   
  On page 2 there is a posting by "Too Far Gone" requesting copy of manual pages regarding the Power Director. http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae263/nemf/D-17.jpg This is the best and most thorough description of the process I've seen. I copied the pages and inserted them in my manual.  | 
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   Gatz in NE  
   
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   Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lincoln, NE Points: 1062  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:08pm | 
 
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   this is a subject that's come up frequenly. 
 
   
  Here's 2 pages out of I&T's AC-201 manual regarding the PD clutch and a pic of a PD assembly. 
Measuring needs to be done with a hole gage & micrometer like the manual says; or, if the PD is out in the open, a digital caliper can be used. 
The page that Brian refers to may have been an I&T manual as well...looks similar. 
Somewhere I read, (but can't find it right now....might've been AC's book) that if there any shims to be placed in the center locations, they have to be the type that are longer; i.e. reach into the assembly further. 
Hopefully this will help, Gatz 
Edited by Gatz in NE - 04 Oct 2010 at 7:12pm  | 
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   Gatz in NE  
   
   Orange Level  
   Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lincoln, NE Points: 1062  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:09pm | 
 
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   great!...now what went wrong ? 
 
   
  try 1st page again 
jeeze...now I cant get the darn pix to show up...they're in the message box before I hit the Post button, but when posted, they show up as a big box with a red X in the upper left corner...anyone know why ?? 
Edited by Gatz in NE - 04 Oct 2010 at 7:19pm  | 
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   norm [ind]  
   
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   Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: BOURBON,IN. Points: 667  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 8:45pm | 
 
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     we do our adjusting in the tractor as book an serviceman tells us  he can do it in half the time  suppsed to be same on both sides  if properly done
    
   
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   Bruce Nelson  
   
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   Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Centuria, WI Points: 137  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 7:44am | 
 
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   Somebody, you are correct, they are the thick plates at the end of the slots. Keep in mind that moving the PD lever forward, sqeezes the rear clutch and moving the lever rearward sqeezes the front clutch. Move the lever rearward and measure just how much closer the two forward plates get. If they do not come together the correct distance, you need to move shims around. If they dont move far enough, remove shims from the three forward places in the PD clutch and add the same thickness you removed to the center shim area. Center shims are not the same as the forward and rearward ones. As you remove shims and add them as described, you should notice your PD lever requiring more effort to engage the clutch you just tightened. Now do the same thing for the rear clutch, only kind of opposite and you are done. If you cannot get to the plates to measure them exactly, just subtract and add shims as I described and use the PD lever resistance as a judge. Go for a firm crisp snap as you engage the clutch. You will know if you went too far. Be sure to tighten all the bolts holding the clutch together as you measure or test.  
    
   
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   skipwelte  
   
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   Joined: 29 Oct 2009 Location: Anthon, Iowa Points: 723  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 12:41pm | 
 
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   We never measured the distances when we adjusted.   Usually your adusting cause it slips or doesnt go over center.   There are 005. 010 and 015 shims, start with a 015 and take it out of the clutch your adjusting, put 015 in the center, tighen the tie bolts and move the lever and see if it snaps good.  Remember you have three set of shim packs to adjust. That will usually get the job done, may have to take out a few more depending on how worn the plates are.  If you take out to many then it will tend to creep when in neutral, which doesnt hurt anything but is a nuicence.  HTH
    
   
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   somebody  
   
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   Joined: 03 Jun 2010 Location: western NC Points: 111  | 
  
   
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     Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 1:15pm | 
 
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   Boy this is the greatest site ever, It seems as everyone is willing to help someone in need.
 
   
  Guys I appreciate you. 
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