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Gleaner F2 433I 10-20 psi oil pressure |
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Meanolallis ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2013 Points: 133 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05 Sep 2017 at 10:42am |
I recently bought a Gleaner F2 with the 433I in it. It sat outside for some time before I got it and seems to be getting rain water in the cylinders and oil. I think it may have even been slightly hydrolocked at one point for the previous owner when he tried to start it. I'm not sure where the water is getting in because the exhaust (cap) and intake look water tight. And I don't think it's coolant, because nothing abnormal seems to be going on with the coolant. I am keeping it covered now.
I changed the oil and filter in it. The old oil was very nasty, black, thick, and sludgy with a lot of water in it. The oil also had "chunks" of stuff in it that felt like (larger) bits of sand. It was probably at least 1 gallon overfilled (due to water addition?). Some of the new oil I put in was 5W-40 and 10W-30 (need to flush it anyway). I'm only getting 10-20 psi of oil pressure or less (vs. specified 50 psi). I haven't used a perfectly accurate gauge, but have used a couple, so I know it's in the 10-20 range. I also pulled out the oil relief/regulating valve and put it back in all the way tight (13.5 turns vs. 10 turns). The engine seems to run good, although maybe rather hot (plugged engine oil cooler per service manual?). It seems to have quite a bit of blowby (lots of water/steam still blowing out the valve cover when you remove the fill plug), but runs good. Previous owner mentioned it loosing power at one point, so I don't know if it could have started to seize up or something when that happened....? Would you guess that this engine needs to be pulled and have new bearings put in it? Anything else to check or any other advice? Thank you! Peter
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CAL(KS) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3804 |
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drain that oil and put 15w-40 diesel engine oil in it and then see where you are at.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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Meanolallis ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2013 Points: 133 |
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Thanks for the advice, CAL. It does have diesel oil in it now (including about 1.5 gal of Rotella 15W-40), and I can definitely try the thicker oil before I pull the engine, but I am doubting that that will make that big of a difference...
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Lester ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 Jan 2010 Location: Indiana Points: 521 |
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Your gage may not be right.
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Meanolallis ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2013 Points: 133 |
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I checked with another gauge, so I know it is near the 10-20 psi range... Thanks!
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jbirnsch ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 02 Jun 2010 Location: Egg Harbor, WI Points: 78 |
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With that mutch sludge it's possible the suction screen to the oil pump is blocked.
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tbran ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3526 |
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if you have STEAM coming out of the valve cover - stop - you have coolant where it is not supposed to be. Tear it down or it will do the job for you..
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Gasket between the two halves of oil pump is bowed or trash under pump bypass. They are famous for blowing gasket.
Best to pull engine and go through it including sleeve Owings which is where I would guess water came from. MACK |
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Meanolallis ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2013 Points: 133 |
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jbirnsch, tbran, MACK,
Thank you for the input. I was pretty sure that I needed to pull the engine out/apart and just wanted a little confirmation before I did it. As hard as it is to believe (and maybe you would disagree), I still don't think the water/steam is from the coolant. It doesn't smell like coolant at all and the coolant is perfectly full and clean... I think it's somehow (I have no idea where) getting rain water in it... Maybe I'll see that I'm wrong (i.e: sleeve Orings leak) when I get it apart though... Thanks! Peter
Edited by Meanolallis - 06 Sep 2017 at 9:03am |
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ACjack ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2014 Location: Peoria, Arizona Points: 276 |
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I'd be interested in when you drop the oil pan if the safety wire on the oil pressure relief valve to the pick up tube is there. There was a brief period in the 70's they stopped building the D-2200. When it was reintroduced it was turbo charged and a counter balancer was installed and all of those very early engines where sent to Independence. Those very early engines soon (still at Independence) developed oil pressure problems from low pressure to complete loss of oil pressure. The cause was determined to be the pressure relief valves coming loose to backing completely out. The root cause was there no longer a safety wire installed like was on the D-2200's. In the change over to the "new" 4cyl engine they felt that the safety wire was no longer needed. The safety wire was quickly put back into the build material list.
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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The pump relief valve is held in with a roll pin. MACK
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ACjack ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2014 Location: Peoria, Arizona Points: 276 |
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The relief piston and spring was held in the body with a pin and the body was screwed into the oil pump housing and then it was safety wired. At lest that's how it was done on the early tutbo'd 4 cyl's .around the mid 70's.
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CAL(KS) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3804 |
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Interesting scenario. I had a low oil pressure issue on my 16000 dozer engine. When I overhauled it and installed new bearings, I discovered the gasket where the pressure line from the pump meets the block was partially blown out and the relief valve was backed out of its threads nearly ready to fall off. I ran it back in with lock tight after checking out the valve and safety wired it.
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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