201 engine assembly

Marv,

Click on farm equipment and upper left should have start new topic.

Sorry to slip into your subject matter here but for some reason they won't let me start a new topic. I'm rebuilding the 125 cubic inch engine in my 1940 B tracker anybody got ideas as to the best and cheapest rebuild kit

Using resistance plugs have an immeasurable effect on ignition timing. what they Do affect, is mag coil inter winding voltage. When resistance wire or plugs are in a mag circuit, the voltage which appears in the mag coil is substantially higher. it's very hard on the coil insulation.

the reason for resistance wires or plugs, is to suppress harmonics... dining between the plug gap and ignition coil of a battery-coil system. when a high tension coil arcs across a gap, the magnetic field of the coil collapses rapidly, and it tends to ring like striking a bell. this running causes incredible radio interference, which doesn't play well with radio receivers, computers, and other electronics.

Sounds excellent- it's hitting very evenly on every cylinder.

Now, it could be the audio quality, could be sound level... and it could be that it's just still breaking in... but it sounds like it's laboring a bit. How much advance is it indicating now when running?

Way to go Marv! There's nothing like hearing your engine run for the first time. Hope you can get the oil leak fixed. I never saw one leak like that. The WD45's even had an oil line dumping oil on top the gear and they didn't leak that much,

The only way to fix the timing is to move the governor gear.  You'll need to pull that out again and get the drive slot horizontal when your pulley set screw is pointing at the floor or at the ceiling.

It seems odd that there would be so much oil coming out from that small shaft that it would make a mess anywhere but the front of the engine.

On that oil leak, since there is no seal there they will all leak there.  The front of these engines all would be very caked with oiled grime there.  Factory designed flush system. 

Hip Hip Hip Hooray!!! She's running!! 

Well, I had a fellow I work with rebuild the mag for me. I meant for him to show me how, but the two of us are so busy we could never find an hour to set down and go through the dang thing. He has all the parts in stock and rebuilds them regularly. So, got the set screw on the crank straight down, pointed the rotor at the plastic tab, and bolted it up.

Had to modify the gasket, as it didn't have a hole for the locating pin.




Got a universal wire set from Fleet, and some Autolite 295s.




Dumped in 5 quarts of 10w-30 and a bottle of zinc,



I plan on running 15-40 in this motor, but figured I'd run 10w-30 for a break in oil. Filled the radiator, and the air cleaner cup, dumped a few gallons of non ethanol in the tank. Checked the tranny oil as well.

Hooked up a mechanical gauge just to be sure on the oil pressure.




And cranked her over. Actually started pretty good, I think. I shot a video of it running, but I'll be danged if I can get it to upload.

It has about 12 psi oil pressure, might add a shim to try and bring that up. Coolant temp at the water manifold seemed to settle in to 150 degrees.

Of course, I hopped on and took it for a spin up the street quick. All gears seem good.

I loosened the mag, and moved it back and forth. It seems to run the best when I pull the top of the mag away from the block, like this.





Now the bad news. There is oil leaking out of the governor shaft. I knew this was egged out, but didn't think there was that much oil up there, Apparently the governor and gear train must fling it around in there pretty good. Can a guy drill that out and bush it or something?



More to come.... thanks for looking!

I would say the compression increase would be negligible.You will likely find the counter bores are not square will the deck now(deeper on one side).

To plug the crank I picked up some tapered corks from the local hardware store. Dug out as much of the wick as I could reach with a small pick. I put one cork in the front side, and think I actually drove two in from the back.

The pilot bearing almost slid in by hand, so I took a center punch, and staked or peened the bore where the bearing goes. That raises little metal to hold the bearing in. Make sure the end of the input shaft fits into the bearing before installation.

The pilot bearing fit pretty easily, so I staked the bore a little with a center punch. That, and a little green Loctite should take care of it.






Torqued the flywheel on, and marked the two "F" marks, and the TDC one that lines up with the setscrew on the front pulley. Not sure if I will need them or not, but they are easier to see.





Lined up the disk and bolted the pressure plate on.








Got the manifold on as well. Made my own studs. The short ones are from a 3406 Cat, and the two long ones are from Fastenal. Also got some thick 3/8" washers, and two 7/16" washers for the center two studs.










Edited by littlemarv - 02 Sep 2017 at 9:40pm

Littlemarv,

Took that second look and lined up like a charm! Thanks a MILLION!

Billy

Littlemarv,

I apologize for spelling your name wrong in last post! You truly are a life saver! I have come a long way on my build thus far and don't want to fail now. I will definitely take a close look tonight after supper :-) Your post has been a huge help!

Thank you
Billy