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MilesGray (CO/KS) 
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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 Topic: Pictures of my 1940? BE engine
Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 9:41pm |
Notice there are no bosses for the Generator/Alternator.
11 - That is a 1940 engine, I think... Don't know what the E2X means???
From the bottom, wondering if I need to have it boiled? I am having the Crank polished.
number 1 and 2...
3 and 4...
Should I replace the freeze plugs? How do I get them out?
Location of the Engine Serial Number.
Sorry for the long post, but I know everyone loves pictures!
TIA Miles
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Miles Gray (CO/KS)
5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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JohnCO
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Niwot Colo
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 9:56pm |
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Wow, it sure looks a lot cleaner then it did a couple days ago!
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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MilesGray (CO/KS)
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Location: CO/KS
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 10:09pm |
Thank you for all the Help John! Mariette has fallen in love with a 38B in Kansas and has given the go ahead to buy another tractor! I still have to fix this one though!
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Miles Gray (CO/KS)
5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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MNLonnie
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Baxter MN
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 10:36pm |
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The casting suffix of -11 and the serial # would both agree that it's a 1939 in theory.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D17, 615 backhoe, M7, 2-Oliver OC3's, 5 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, 34 Ford coupe, 57 T-Bird
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MilesGray (CO/KS)
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 11:04pm |
But, it came off a 44C! lol! Yes, I know...
Wouldn't this make it a 116ci and not a 125ci as should be on a C?
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Miles Gray (CO/KS)
5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 16 Apr 2011 at 11:26pm |
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Your engine is a transplant from an earlier tractor. The pistons and sleeves could also have been replaced. The difference between the 116 and 125 is sleeves and pistons only.
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MilesGray (CO/KS)
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Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 10:48am |
Back to my originsl questions:
1. Does it look like I need to take the engine and have it hot-tanked?
2. How do I remove the freeze plugs on the engine? And replace them?
Edited by MilesGray (CO/KS) - 17 Apr 2011 at 10:49am
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Miles Gray (CO/KS)
5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 11:16am |
Those are not freeze plugs in the engine. They are sand core opening covers. The only thing behind them is an open gally for oil to return to the pan. But if you want to remove them to get it as clean as the rest of your block just beat them in the center to cvave them in and they will turn wrong side out and fall free. New ones would be set in the opening with the dome out and you would pound on the center to cave in the center some to expand them in the core hole step. to seal them. You would dope the step with you favoite gasket sealer before setting the core plug in place.
If you clean the oil gally behind the core plugs there is nothing to hot tank except some short oil pasages which you can get with a swab. You goterdone Good job.
Edited by Dick L - 17 Apr 2011 at 11:21am
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MilesGray (CO/KS)
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Posted: 17 Apr 2011 at 12:19pm |
Is there any way to get to the oil galley without taking the core plugs out? There were some metal pieces that probably came from the broken gear teeth when the original problem (exploding Governor) happened.
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Miles Gray (CO/KS)
5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy!
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