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TL73 
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Joined: 13 Apr 2026
Location: North MS
Points: 13
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 Topic: Model B Stiff Rotation
Posted: 22 hours 24 minutes ago at 10:23am |
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This tractor is a 38 and as you know hand crank only. Complete tractor was restored probably 15 years ago and has seen little use. To me, the hand crank seems much harder than expected. Even with the spark plugs removed the rotating assembly feels like it's way too tight. Even cranking it over with no sparks plugs shakes the entire tractor. I've seen people who can turn their engine over by rotating the cooling fan with the plugs removed. There is absolutely no way I could rotate this engine by turning the cooling fan. Is this normal?
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 1014
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Posted: 19 hours 53 minutes ago at 12:54pm |
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How have you tried disengaging the clutch turning the engine over? If there is no difference you may have to remove the oil pan and plastigauge the bearings. I definitely this was the case with one B where the bearings were too tight, with correct clearances the problem was fixed and the engine turned over easy.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 91066
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Posted: 19 hours 40 minutes ago at 1:07pm |
did the tractor run after the rebuild ??? Has it been setting for a while ???
You could have some rust on the liners / pistons / rings causing things to drag.. If you KNOW the engine ran good at one time, i would put some penetrant or oil acetone mixture in each cylinder and let it set for a day or two.. Crank the engine over and push this out the spark plug hole... If it seems to help, you could drag the tractor around with the truck with the spark plugs OUT and in gear.... should loosen things up..
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 hours 39 minutes ago at 1:08pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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TL73
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Joined: 13 Apr 2026
Location: North MS
Points: 13
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Posted: 12 hours 17 minutes ago at 8:30pm |
 Eric B wrote:
How have you tried disengaging the clutch turning the engine over? If there is no difference you may have to remove the oil pan and plastigauge the bearings. I definitely this was the case with one B where the bearings were too tight, with correct clearances the problem was fixed and the engine turned over easy. |
This is what's odd to me. I'd been turning it over by hand with the clutch disengaged. I released the pedal lock and tried it with the clutch ENGAGED and it turned over easier. Maybe I'm missing something but I can't understand how the engine turns over easier with the clutch engaged. It's still stiff but significantly easier than before.
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TL73
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Location: North MS
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Posted: 12 hours 14 minutes ago at 8:33pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
did the tractor run after the rebuild ??? Has it been setting for a while ???
You could have some rust on the liners / pistons / rings causing things to drag.. If you KNOW the engine ran good at one time, i would put some penetrant or oil acetone mixture in each cylinder and let it set for a day or two.. Crank the engine over and push this out the spark plug hole... If it seems to help, you could drag the tractor around with the truck with the spark plugs OUT and in gear.... should loosen things up..
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Yes, the tractor runs pretty good; we've been pulling it off until I can figure out why the hand crank is so stiff.
Edited by TL73 - 12 hours 12 minutes ago at 8:35pm
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1668
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Posted: 10 hours 1 minutes ago at 10:46pm |
TL73 wrote:
... I released the pedal lock and tried it with the clutch ENGAGED and it turned over easier. Maybe I'm missing something but I can't understand how the engine turns over easier with the clutch engaged. It's still stiff but significantly easier than before. |
TL73 wrote:
Complete tractor was restored probably 15 years ago and has seen little use. |
Could the throwout bearing be dragging on the bearing carrier? Is the linkage properly adjusted?
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Phil48ACWC
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Joined: 17 Jan 2013
Location: Vermont
Points: 327
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Posted: 4 hours 4 minutes ago at 4:43am |
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Could the bell housing be full of a mouse house?
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TL73
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Location: North MS
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Posted: 2 hours 34 minutes ago at 6:13am |
Les Kerf wrote:
TL73 wrote:
... I released the pedal lock and tried it with the clutch ENGAGED and it turned over easier. Maybe I'm missing something but I can't understand how the engine turns over easier with the clutch engaged. It's still stiff but significantly easier than before. |
TL73 wrote:
Complete tractor was restored probably 15 years ago and has seen little use. |
Could the throwout bearing be dragging on the bearing carrier? Is the linkage properly adjusted?
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I'm checking that this morning and I will let you know.
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TL73
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Posted: 2 hours 34 minutes ago at 6:13am |
Phil48ACWC wrote:
Could the bell housing be full of a mouse house? |
I'll check that out this morning.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 40 minutes ago at 8:07am |
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dont push in the clutch... leave the tractor in neutral... check the PTO lever is DOWN and not engaged during cranking..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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TL73
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Location: North MS
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Posted: 16 minutes ago at 8:31am |
steve(ill) wrote:
dont push in the clutch... leave the tractor in neutral... check the PTO lever is DOWN and not engaged during cranking.. |
So, I'm assuming with the clutch depressed, it's causing additional friction which is why it makes it harder to crank over by hand?
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DanielW
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Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
Points: 315
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Posted: 11 minutes ago at 8:36am |
TL73 wrote:
This is what's odd to me. I'd been turning it over by hand with the clutch disengaged. I released the pedal lock and tried it with the clutch ENGAGED and it turned over easier. Maybe I'm missing something but I can't understand how the engine turns over easier with the clutch engaged. It's still stiff but significantly easier than before. |
Trying to think how that could be. I presume they had the clutch apart (and probably replaced) during the rebuild? When you/they assembled, did you have the friction disc pointed the correct way? It's not uncommon for folks to assemble with the friction disc the wrong way around. The long side of the friction disc hub goes toward the tranny (away form the flywheel).
I can't quite think if that would cause your problem of binding with the clutch disengaged, but I also can't picture it too clearly in my head. When you say it turns over 'easier' with the clutch engaged, how 'easy' is 'easy'? Still binding/shaking the tractor and impossible to roll over with the fan? Or much easier, such that you could easily roll it over with the fan?
If the friction disc is installed the wrong way around, possibly the long side of its hub is rubbing/grinding against some component on/around the engine/flywheel, tranny input shaft, or the other side is against throw-out bearing when the clutch is disengaged? Someone who knows the B's better than I do can likely comment on that. Worth doing the quick job of removing the clutch inspection cover and taking a look (might need an inspection camera to look in there sufficiently deep to confirm friction disc orientation - there are a decent resolution inspection cameras available quite cheap that plug into your cell phone).
Edited by DanielW - 9 minutes ago at 8:38am
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