How to plow snow

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   Get a CA with a loader or with a rear blade. You get the smaller size of a C, and the snap-coupler of the WD's and WD45's. Plus the power adjust wheels.

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AC WD45 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Location: Mid Michigan Points: 2078	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC WD45 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 7:45pm
	Get a CA with a loader or with a rear blade. You get the smaller size of a C, and the snap-coupler of the WD's and WD45's. Plus the power adjust wheels.
	German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193

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Dave in il Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Manville Il Points: 1748	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dave in il Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 6:47pm
	A front end loader with a snow bucket or a blade on it, and the rear blade you have now. Add plenty of weights to the rear. It's nice to push snow without looking backwards all the time. The loader will stack snow too. The blade will add weight for traction when it's up and can help with clean up. Chains probabley aren't needed for the snow amounts your talking about. We never use them and we get more snow than you're talking about but the tractors are bigger, D17, 200 or 7060.

Dakota Dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3974	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dakota Dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 6:36pm
	I plowed snow with my C for 10 years. My blade had push arms going foward from the Plow mount drop brackets. Just go foward of the front tires and weld a blade on. keep the blade as close to the front tires as you can. I used a cable from the center of the rockshaft down to a pulley on the drawbar. and foward to pulleys on the cultivator bar to lift it. Don't worry about making it pivot the front of the tractor slides sidways to easy. I plowed 24 inch heavy snow with the C Just use a herringbone pattern when plowing.

MNLonnie Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Baxter MN Points: 4812	Post Options Post Reply Quote MNLonnie Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 6:00pm
	I would also stick with rubber tires on the rear with chains (the narrower the tire the better). Mounting a blower in front would be perfect, coming up with a lift for it would be the problem. I'd mount a motor right on the blower so you don't have to use up tractor power to run it.
	Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D17, 615 backhoe, M7, 2-Oliver OC3's, 5 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, 34 Ford coupe, 57 T-Bird

scott Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: michigan Points: 2769	Post Options Post Reply Quote scott Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 5:56pm
	I use a 7040 to do 90 percent of the work then use a Case VAI to finish 'er up. The Case has a trip loader with adapted angling blade attached to the arms and a blade on the back. The back blade is way tougher to use than the front blade. Running over the snow and pulling it forward is a loser. The front blade is easiest, then the back blade pushing backwards or pulling, but always with the back blade facing backwards. My take is weight wins in the snow. The 7040 will push a mountain of snow backwards with only a little use of the brakes. The Case has 13.9x28 rear wheels with weights and the weight of two blades. Much over the 6 or 8 inches and he is outclassed and just spins out. Chains will add a bunch of traction but are tough on fenders and wiring. I dont use em. A snowblower on the front would be extremely cool but you will get snow in your face and 4 ft. isnt really big enough to boast about. Notice how the plows top beam on the 7040 pivots to the side? The blade is set straight and the main beam is pivoted to the side to push snow farther away from the tractor. I am going to build a smaller blade for the Case that angles in the same way... I also have a D-17 that is a turd for back blade work. The clutch pedal that kills the hydraulics is my enemy in the snow. I use it to feed bales with in the winter. Using what you have I would consider loading the tires and attaching a front mounted pump so you have live hydraulics. A pivoting front blade thats two feet wider than the outside of the tires would allow it to be angled and still be wider than the tread. Then you'd need a for hire sign!

morton(pa) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lancaster, PA Points: 1234	Post Options Post Reply Quote morton(pa) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 5:46pm
	I'll be honest, I personally don't speak from experience, but have researched the topic (snow plow for a B) quite a bit. I will also add this mostly comes from my opinion from what I have seen... I would prefer a front mount blade. Tractors were made to work going forward, that said, you will have more visibility by looking forward then over your shoulder. I'm not familiar with how you have to plow (IE long driveway, lots of obsticles such as cars outside, childern, dogs, lots of curves, large parking area, etc.) but I would think the increased visiblity would be a plus for safety, and relaxation. I would stay with rubber tires, but add chains. You will get more surface area with chains then you will with steel wheels. I have seen lot's of steel wheels, rebar wheels, etc. here used by Amish and Piker Mennonites around here, and I can tell you from helping my neighbors, you will slip quite a bit if you have the right conditions. Not good when your plowing on a hill or when your driveway is narrow and you get a tractor stuck in the middle with the milk truck coming in a few hours. Chains can also be taken on and off as needed very easily, which I also feel is a huge bonus. They can also be a heck of a lot cheeper then finding and buying steel wheels for a B if you find them in the right place. I would think added weight on the back would always help for traction in slippery snows. I know it did when I pulled a few cars out with the B last year. I had 1 wheel weight on either side, and they might weigh 150-200 lbs a piece. Trust me, it helps. No idea about the snow blower other then I think a plow would be better, but thats just my opinion. You can place the snow exactly where you want it, they work no matter how much snow you have, and you can move any kind of snow (powder or heavy/wet). Again these are just my opinions and ideas from stepping back and watching others until I get a chance to find some material, time, and equipment to build my plow for one of my B's. Edited by morton(pa) - 11 Feb 2011 at 5:47pm

Denis in MI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Norvell, MI Points: 832	Post Options Post Reply Quote Denis in MI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 5:45pm
	The snow blower would be sweet, especially if the snow is very deep
	1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 90536	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 4:53pm
	First let me say i have several small B tractors. I am trying not to by a WD45 or similar. We normally get snows of 4-6 inches. I have an IB with a 6 ft heavy rear blade on it. I does a very good job if the snow is not wet. I run over the snow and the rear blade rolls it to the side in a windrow manner. My troubles come in that the IB has about 12 inches of ground clearance and my blade only picks up about 10 inches or so.. Last week we had 14-16 inches. No way to plow it forward. I was reduced to backing into the snow and pushing, at angles to clean a straight path. I would like to "upgrade" one of my other B tractors ( not the IB) and use for plowing or dirt work next year. I have two belly mower tractors, sickle and a light blade tractor. One of the last tractors i have started building a 3 point hitch for it. I might finish this summer. What would be the best way to get the little B to be a better unit for snow. should i have a rear blade or front mounted ? my neck was sore after 3 hours ! should i put on chains and what type, or how about rear steel wheels ?? What is the objective of chains or steel wheels, angle teeth or bars or points ? should rear tires be narrow or wide, big lug, steel studs, orangle iron lugs? I can mount 500 pounds of weights on the rear if i use front blade, or vice vera. I have a 48 inch snow blower off an old garden tractor...should i try to mount it? better ideas ---i would rather not buy a WD45, but i know its x 2 larger.
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.