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modirt View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 12:42pm
BTW, where does one go to get new crosses? I did know a guy........he could match anything.......but he up and died on us a while back and his shop is closed. 
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 1:22pm
I buy all my u-joints from these guys... Farm Store carries 2 sizes in the 30- 50 HP range.. These guys carry EVERYTHING and the adaptors... You just got to know the bearing OD and joint width...


Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 12:39pm
More progress.

After going over the pulley setup numerous times, concluded there HAD to be a seam somewhere, if only I could find it. No way to assemble it otherwise. Turns out the cap screws were only holding a plate on in front......not the entire pulley. Seam was on insider corner. 

As it turns out, didn't need to do anything to pto shaft / yolk / u-joint. Just remove those 4 cap screws. Now I know. Now we all know. Next one will be easy.






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Joined: 22 Jun 2015
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 1:20pm
Can be frustrating trying to figure something out and then the realization it is not that difficult once you understand the thing. Obviously, service manuals can be very important if you can even find one. Glad you got it apart. I see a set screw on the yoke. Does that hold it to a stub shaft? If so, now you can put some heat to it and separate those two pieces and make it more easy next time. If there is a next time.
Glad to see you’re making progress
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 2:24pm
For U-Joints: there is a "Fleetpride" Heavy truck parts place close to me that can match nearly anything. If they can't match it there is a Farm drivelines place that can.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 5:05pm
Got the big cap screw holding pulley on off and now appears to be same boat as normal case of having to pull the harmonic balancer.......except this pulley setup isn't normal. Have borrowed the loan of a balancer pulling tool, but short bolts normally used doesn't work with this pulley setup. Need to procure some much longer bolts in range of 3/8" x 3 1/2" fine thread......just to be able to reach the holes to pull it off with. Apparently neat trick is to delete the big washer, then put big cap screw back in and use that to push against. Whole unit is supposed to slide past it.  Will see. 


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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 7:39pm
you knew they didnt put a special crank shaft in the motor with a 3 inch longer snout... Had to be an adaptor plate or something... Makes a lot more sence after you got it apart !
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 2025 at 6:56am
Not sure if time will permit any further progress will be made over the weekend.  

Found this video of a guy facing similar problem. Same bolt. This is what I fear may be causing the stuck bolt problem. Corrosion. 

Fast forward to around 5 min to get started. NO amount of prying was getting his cover free from that bolt.  Seems like a design flaw. 



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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 1:05pm
More progress and hit yet another wall. 

With the right puller, the big pulley walked right off just like  harmonic balancer would. 

As feared, corrosion around that broken bolt may have the cover welded on tight. I thought maybe if i got it freed on one side, I could wedge it off. Is free on top, left side and bottom Entire right side is stuck down tight. Have driven wedges in, banged on cover and bolt.....rise and repeat......and no joy. It has hit the wall. 

Trying to free it around the fuel pump damaged the cover to point of no return. It's toast. Have given thought to drilling a hole in the cover to the bolt.......say 3/16" or so......then filling that with PB Blaster and letting it soak a bit in hopes it might give it up......or just quit the subtle stuff and get out a saw and start hacking it up. 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 4:27pm
Thread and bolt a piece of steel to the bolts above and below the broken one, weld a piece of threaded steel to the bolted steel, the same size as will thread onto a slide hammer. slide hammer the cover off.  this suggestion will only work if you have room for said slide hammer...Wink
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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 5:32pm
Had to quit early and unscheduled field trip all day tomorrow. 

As stands now, drilled the hole thru cover above the bolt, and have been irrigating with PB blaster. Sitting under serious tension with driven in wedges above and below. If it doesn't give it up in a day or two, will pull out the Fein multitool and start hacking. Get on the edge of that bolt and ride it to the bottom. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 9:17pm
For what it's worth...

Chrysler, like Ford and GM, had manufacturing lines specific for 'industrial' engines.... so if you assume an engine to be same as automotive/truck, there's a fair chance you'll be wrong.

My Clark IT-60 has a 225 slant six.  While it looks just like what'd be in as Plymouth Volare, Chrysler LeBaron, or Dodge Aspen... or an A or D-series truck or van...

But it's different.  About 80% of the parts are different.  Different crank, different intake, different pan, different water pump...
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2025 at 7:31am
Widely believed the Deweze version (this one) left factory with engine, tranny, front and rear axles same as Dodge D600. The rest was fabricated and grafted on. Spoke to the young man I bought this from and he replaced the original factory engine with a used 318 engine sourced from a salvage yard.  He had no idea what it came out of. It has an odd casting number.........xxxxxx-318-16. The 16 part is where numbers vary depending on use. Nobody seems to know what a 318-16 was intended for. Aside from cars and trucks, we know they were used in a whole slew of military vehicles, RV's, boats, irrigation pumps, Oliver combines and who knows what else. Some floating around were just spare crate engines, which is what this one may have been. 

The MOPAR guys gas on about cams, headers, carbs, etc., with most of them interested in high RPM horsepower and if it will hold together above 6,000 RPM long enough to smoke the tires off. At other end of the spectrum would have been that Dodge D600 truck. High torque at low RPM's not intended for high road speed. (Not a muscle car). Carb, headers, cam shaft all optimized for that use. That would be ideal for this rig, but not sure how close it matches......if at all.  It does have same NP 540 transmission, but only single speed rear axle.  So the geared way down, high torque setup. 

If i was to go on a hunt to replace engine, I'd be looking for a donor from some form of Dodge D600 truck. Actually have a line on one in form of an old firetruck, which is sitting in a salvage yard. Some of these D600 trucks were retired with less than 30,000 actual miles. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tadams(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2025 at 2:55pm
Try putting some heat on the area that the bolt is in
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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 11:44am
Cover is off (and it wasn't easy) and broken bolt is finally out. Had to hack up the cover and once inside was very plain to see, corrosion to the bolt was holding it on. No amount of heat or soaking was going to free it up. Had to go postal on it. Once cover was off, the bolt backed out easy with vice grips. 

Once inside, looks to me like timing chain is suspect. Good amount of slack in it. If going to replace, no time like the present. 






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plummerscarin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 12:43pm
Your issue was same as one shown in video link you posted. Corrosion of dissimilar metals in the cover itself. The flaw in design is not addressing the problem before the corrosion begins. Some sort of anti seize or bushing would be in order.
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modirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 3:52pm
Have given thought all manner of fixes.......everything from a hard plastic bolt.....some sort of ceramic coating, etc. Cheap and easy might be to butter it up with Anti-Seize before installing. Once installed, this one bolt would be the only one of several that would ever have to turn. It is one of three that is used to hold alternator bracket on, but this one also does double duty, being lower anchor point for the arm used to adjust fan belt tension on alternator. Anytime the fan is adjusted, or to replace the belt, that bolt has to turn. Somewhere along the line somebody tried and broke it. 

And again, it does extend into the block where end is exposed to coolant. Some design engineer screwed the pooch on this one. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 hours 52 minutes ago at 7:31pm
Originally posted by modirt modirt wrote:

... this one also does double duty, being lower anchor point for the arm used to adjust fan belt tension on alternator. Anytime the fan is adjusted, or to replace the belt, that bolt has to turn...

Is it practical to install a custom stud rather than a bolt to allow future maintenance?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 hours 28 minutes ago at 7:55pm
stainless bolt... plenty of pipe dope and thread tape to seal the coolant..  if you realy want to get fance, drill out the housing hole and put in a brass bushing.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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