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J&J 
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Joined: 24 Apr 2021
Location: IN
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 Topic: Here's my plan for wiring the CA
Posted: 14 Mar 2026 at 3:16pm |
Any thoughts or advice...
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 5268
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Posted: 14 Mar 2026 at 4:58pm |
I would just get a wiring harness from "The Brillman Co." Www.brillman.com Just tell them when ordering what alternator you wish to use and it will be plug and play. There's no need to make it any more complex than it needs to be.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 90518
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Posted: 14 Mar 2026 at 7:23pm |
print looks good.. I think you got it....... I did the same thing 20 years ago... Made up 5 harnesses for "B" tractors...but i have toggle switch to turn ON.. then push button to START.... used them all.. 
Companies charge $160. just for the WIRES... then you need the switches and fuses if any. Cost is minimal if you got the understanding of electricity..
Edited by steve(ill) - 14 Mar 2026 at 7:27pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Les Kerf
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Location: Idaho
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Posted: 14 Mar 2026 at 8:25pm |
Anyone who will put that much effort into a schematic will have no problem building a first-class harness. 
I usually roll my own, but had Grandson do the wiring on the CA last year just for the education. Materials are getting quite spendy nowadays.
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Jgranat
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Joined: 25 Mar 2019
Location: NW PA
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Posted: Yesterday at 6:27am |
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I wire all my tractors similar to this, 5 ACs, 4 Fords, 2 Farmalls, no factory harnesses. Troubleshooting should be easy, if they ever fail me....every one is 12 volt negative ground.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: Yesterday at 6:49am |
well, since you asked.... 1) remove one of the fusible links in the alt-bat feed 2) install a +-40 amp ammeter 3) replace 10SI with the smaller CS-130 series or a Denso unit 4) install a 4 place fuse block instead of the 'power ' fusible link 5) one color per function 6) crimp,solder, heat shrink all end connectors
Edited by jaybmiller - Yesterday at 7:03am
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Les Kerf
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Posted: Yesterday at 8:17am |
 jaybmiller wrote:
well, since you asked.... 1) remove one of the fusible links in the alt-bat feed 2) install a +-40 amp ammeter 3) replace 10SI with the smaller CS-130 series or a Denso unit 4) install a 4 place fuse block instead of the 'power ' fusible link 5) one color per function 6) crimp,solder, heat shrink all end connectors
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Good points to consider. 
I much prefer a voltmeter rather than an ammeter, but I am too much of a cheapskate to remove a functional ammeter 
I am not a fan of fusible links.
The 10SI alternator is indeed a tight fit on a Model CA as there is not much room for adjustment next to the steering arm, but it can be made to work so long as the adjustable pulley on the water pump isn't rusted tight.
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: Yesterday at 8:45am |
voltmeter can lie, only shows the potential or possible energy whereas an ammeter ACTUALLY shows electrons moving in and out of the battery.
'they' went from ammeters to voltmeters as a cheap cheat.. as they're easier to intall( cheap and universal).
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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J&J
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Joined: 24 Apr 2021
Location: IN
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Posted: 6 hours 57 minutes ago at 6:44am |
The Brillman wiring harnesses are nice but do not offer the options that I want, plus I like to upgrade the wire sizes. I do like their Cotton braided spooled wire options.
I Probably will go with fuses rather than links, I like the "sealed" blade style fuses.
I prefer a voltmeter over an ammeter for safety, ease of wiring, more compatible with an alternator. I just want to know if the battery is charged/charging.
I already have a 10 SI that barely clears, when I need a new one I'll probably go with a CS – 121 it's even smaller than the 130.
Do you all usually run 2AWG battery cables as an upgrade for 12 V?
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 6 hours 21 minutes ago at 7:20am |
If you were to call John and discuss you desires, he nearly makes all of his wiring harness to order and as I said to begin with he can customize a harness to your needs. i-888-274-5562
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jim.ME
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Joined: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
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Posted: 6 hours 7 minutes ago at 7:34am |
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It might be worth checking with Steve at B and B Custom Circuits for a harness.
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Jgranat
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Joined: 25 Mar 2019
Location: NW PA
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Posted: 2 hours 13 minutes ago at 11:28am |
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Bigfoot and a lying volt meter are two things I have never seen in my life. In nearly 57 years on the planet I've never experienced either one.
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Les Kerf
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Location: Idaho
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Posted: 1 hour 30 minutes ago at 12:11pm |
Jgranat wrote:
Bigfoot and a lying volt meter are two things I have never seen in my life. In nearly 57 years on the planet I've never experienced either one. |
Yup. A voltmeter tells me more than does an ammeter, but I grew up driving VW's that only had an idiot light, so an ammeter seemed like an improvement .
All three together (Volts, Amps, and warning light) would be the best system.
And yet, somehow, life goes on!
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 1 hour 23 minutes ago at 12:18pm |
J&J wrote:
...
Do you all usually run 2AWG battery cables as an upgrade for 12 V? |
Only if I already owned them, my Model C has puny 6 gauge cables on 12 Volts and it just SLAMS that starter in.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 11 minutes ago at 1:30pm |
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if your upgrading to 12v, the #4 or #6 battery cables from NAPA or Auto Zone are plenty big for a 100- 200 cubic inch low compression engine..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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