hd6 radiator issues

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So I have a little bit of a delema getting my radiator out, well I guess I finally got it out but its not going back in the same way. My dozer has the hard nose and was fighting getting everything loose to be able to tilt it forward. Its amazing that I got one of the front bolts loose but the other wont budge, then the back two bolts I got out, but cant get the pins out that hold them in, but once I washed the dozer to put heat on it, that wouldnt matter anyhow because a previous owner WELDED the nose onto the main frame :/ This is a farm dozer and has so many cobbed up parts on it I dont mind doing a little more like that, But to get it back in without damage would anyone see an issue on cutting the top off the hard nose, dropping the radiator in then welding the top back on? I know for sure I'm making some extra shielding for the sides so another stick doesnt get into the radiator... Or if anyone else has any ideas let me know

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random_farmhick Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Jan 2012 Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote random_farmhick Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: hd6 radiator issues Posted: 28 Apr 2012 at 10:30pm
	So I have a little bit of a delema getting my radiator out, well I guess I finally got it out but its not going back in the same way. My dozer has the hard nose and was fighting getting everything loose to be able to tilt it forward. Its amazing that I got one of the front bolts loose but the other wont budge, then the back two bolts I got out, but cant get the pins out that hold them in, but once I washed the dozer to put heat on it, that wouldnt matter anyhow because a previous owner WELDED the nose onto the main frame :/ This is a farm dozer and has so many cobbed up parts on it I dont mind doing a little more like that, But to get it back in without damage would anyone see an issue on cutting the top off the hard nose, dropping the radiator in then welding the top back on? I know for sure I'm making some extra shielding for the sides so another stick doesnt get into the radiator... Or if anyone else has any ideas let me know

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derekhopkins Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Australia Points: 26	Post Options Post Reply Quote derekhopkins Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 3:45am
	Mate, the easieat way in for you will be to get out the little 4 inch grinder and cut the welds etc. Then you can put it back together properley after welding in the proper nuts and fittings. good luck!

random_farmhick Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Jan 2012 Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote random_farmhick Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Apr 2012 at 8:14am
	Guessin they couldnt keep them tight and decided to make sure it didnt move. Whoever welded it knew what they were doing too because they are beatiful welds. Just curious because I cant get it to move, the back bolts, are they just bolts? or is there something tapered there to keep them from moving around? If they are just bolts with nuts welded on the inside then I might try grinding, but if they are tapered then I am probley screwed because I already had my 10 ton portapower on it pushing and a 15 pound sledge trying to get them broke loose and it didnt help one bit...

Dozer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dozer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 May 2012 at 8:25am
	Grind the coby welds off so the shell can be tilted properly. Have both front pivot pins in place. Spread the rear of the shell away from the frame by inserting a tapered object between the frame and the shell. I use a chisel. Each side needs to be moved about 1/4 inch further away from the frame. There is a saw-tooth rachet mechanism that holds the shell in place so that the rear bolts can be inserted. Spreading the rear of the shell releases the mechanism. Both of the pivot pins have right hand threads. When the shell is pivoted one of the pivot pins is tightened as the other is loosened. Usually the pin on the left side is tighened excessivly when the shell is pivoted back into position. I have the shell off my HD6 so I could take a picture if my explanation is unclear. Good luck

Dozer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dozer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 May 2012 at 9:02am
	I went out in the rain and took a picture of the saw-tooth rachet that holds the radiator shell in place so that the rear bolts can be inserted. I hope it uploads. The second picture shows the shell and the hydraulic track adjuster I made.