Have to choke everytime clutch is let out

Have a d17 that every time go to release the clutch have to choke the tractor to keep it running. This is even when tractor has been running awhile. Is there anything simple to adjust or change to get it to run without chokeing all the time

I had a 170 gas that did that. Finally figured out the main jet up inside the carb was loose and just floating in there.

Yea it seems good when pushing snow its just when changing direction and releasing clutch. Will have to check fuel flow and carb when little warmer out as today is -15

I was thinking the same thing with the mix running too lean I would guess I would almost bet some of the passages in the carb are plugged. I think I would pull the carb and clean it up really good checking the small passages with a wire. Carbs are sort of an art from if you ask me I ended up taking mine to someone local who is an old timer and knows how they cleaned them back in the day.

Lightly loaded, clutch pushed in, it mostly runs on the idle circuit as the governor closes the throttle a lot. Then when the load comes back the governor opens the throttle rapidly. Most carburetors have some sort of acceleration pump to enrich the mixture for that event because the carburetor tends to go lean right when you want it to produce a rapid increase in torque. Could be the acceleration pump not working, could be the idle mix is set way too lean, could be main jet partly plugged, could be all of those at the same time. I'd start by enriching the idle mix, that screw often adjusts air to the mix, so it gets richer by turning the screw in. There is an idle adjustment procedure, requires overriding the governor with the throttle closed, and adjusting the idle jet for maximum engine speed. If the governor has control it will hide the results of any changes in mixture, so just hold the throttle closed, I don't think you have to disconnect the governor rod.

Gerald J.

I have a 48 Plymouth that did the same thing I went through the fuel system but did  the same thing. My Grandpa said to replace the condensor I said no way but he was right again. Might try it.

Like what HD6GTom said, check and make sure your manifold isn't warped.  Not uncommon on the WD, WD-45 and D17's that the manifold will warp and allow a vacuum leak on the intake.  If you have a local machine shop with a large belt sander, they can lay the manifold on it and level the ports again.  Then slap on a fresh set of gaskets and should be ready to roll.  When you push the clutch, the governor will virtually close the butterfly which creates a higher amount of vacuum in the manifold magnifying the leaning of the engine.

Also make sure the thermostat is good so the engine warms up properly.

I'm in agreement with Mack also.

I follow Mack's advice, but I go half a turn farther open in the winter.  The colder air is denser, so more O2 molecules per volume of air, so fuel needs to be adjusted to compensate.

The for the transition between the idle and main jets, the fuel level in the float bowl needs to be higher so it runs richer in that transition.

Gerald J.

If you go electric ignition switch it to negative ground.   I have one tractor with a positive ground kit that works and one that has eaten several positive ground kits. The negative ground kit is more robust.