This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


Valve Job on a WD45?

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
Author
Message
BobHnwO View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Jenera Ohio
Points: 693
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobHnwO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 1:10pm
You guys all go take a pill or somethin!!!
Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Dick L View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5082
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 2:02pm
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:


It could not be farther from the truth.  These cylinder heads were made of good castings, and the manufacturing assembly was elegantly simple to watch, and also to work on after.


 
If you take the casting, bare, and knock out all the seats and valve guides, scrub it clean, check it for cracks, and then install new guides and seats (with a simple locating tool and hammer), then you can use an antique hand-operated grinder, a lapping stick and compound, with new valves, springs, and keepers.

Or you can put the head on a table, release each valve with a spring compressor, wire brush each valve, scrub the head, look for cracks, check the welch (frost) plugs, drop in each valve, see if it wobbles in the guide, then lap it, reinstall the springs, and it'll work great.  You'll know if you've got a sacked-out spring... if you can't get the valve to move by pressing with the heel of your hand, you've got plenty of seat force.

 
 
True but reads a bit over simplified.  There happens to be a few of the details that needs to be understood. I have in the past put on pictures of cylinder heads that people that thought is was just that simple and ended up with a head that would not hold compression. The task of lapping is probly the most understood part. Lapping does not take the place of grinding or cutting seats and refacing the valves. Lapping is in addition to. Lapping is done like a washing machine agitator works not spun with an electric drill.
 
 
Back to Top
Dick L View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5082
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 2:09pm
I'm Sorry. I didn't resist the earge to enter the slide away from the question as I should have.
 
If the above engine was mine I would rework the head and if I had the funds I would rebuild the bottom while it was partly disassembled. However if it was not a oil using smoker before, and didn't have a bunch of money to put into it,  I would put the head back on and repair other necessary parts.
Back to Top
mlpankey View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 6:38pm
Dave if using your advice  all  226 oem springs need changed or some need to man up . 1 3/4 height oem spring 30-39lbs 1 5/16 55-65 lbs on seat for oem  a man should be able to push either of those  down with his hand

Edited by mlpankey - 21 Jan 2012 at 6:40pm
Back to Top
DaveKamp View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5642
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 10:17pm
Okay, Pank-  time to learn to read, then think, without opening mouth- you've already got two feet in it already:

"if you can't get the valve to move by pressing with the heel of your hand, you've got plenty of seat force."

How does this test condemn a spring?  DUH-- it doesn't... but it DOES prove that the spring is stout enough to not need a lick of attention.

You're right on about the grinding process, Dick-  I've got a slick little valve grinder and several different  guide-mandrel type motorized grinding tools  here- one of 'em is somewhat of a rarity- it's a Brown & Sharpe from the early '50's, and it does a really nice job, but I've only needed it twice... once many years ago for a Hercules JXLD (331ci  flathead six) in a generator that I rescued, and most recently in a Fairbanks-Morse 118ci oilfield single.  The former had been sitting with that port full of rain, and the valve yanked the seat out when I rolled it over, and the latter had it's exhaust valve stem incredibly-well adhered to the guide... I had to torch the (sodium filled) valve out, in order to drive the guide and stem duo out, and push in a new guide. In the process, I spalled a little spot in the guide, but rather than yank out an otherwise perfectly good piece, I just ground it a smidgen, lapped it in, and put it back together.  I've never found need to employ the grinder on any Allis heads, nor have I ever found a head that needed a $300 bill to get a cylinder head solidly back in the land of the living.  Reiterating his original explanation... he was bushhogging, and it got fussy... went to pull a plug, and the plug broke off.  If he was bushhogging, I'm thinkin' it wasn't in too bad'a shape to begin with.

Now, Pankey's original allegation was that valve damage should be expected on the basis that the Allis engine was somehow intolerant of fuels without lead.  I called him on this lie, and he should've been bright enough to not go there in the first place.  He's got a little inferiority complex going on.  Perhaps someday he'll learn that lying to newbies is the number-one way to dash friendships old-and-new, but based on how he's treated people elsewhere, I really don't think that's going to happen.
Back to Top
Ryan Renko View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2315
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 10:58pm
How about those St. Louis Blues!! I may get to see a stanley cup in my lifetime in St. Louis!!! Ryan
Back to Top
Ryan Renko View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2315
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 11:08pm
Just thought I would try to relieve the tension among our orange friends!! Ryan
Back to Top
wi50 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 24 Sep 2010
Location: weegieland
Points: 1010
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 11:54am
In  the time pankey spent lying to us in this thread I could have reconditioned a stack of stock cylinder heads to a sufficient status for use in any of our old tractors.  It costs me less than a whopping $100 for a complete set of valves, guides, springs, etc.  For that I don't spend much time with old parts.
 
If there's a junk head in TN, I'll fix it (cylinder head that is).  Never found one yet that I couldn't deal with or use in another application.  Cutting and installing seats is a real simple task, and one doesn't have to get carried away, one can trim the seats easy enough.  Though with poor tools, inadequate supplies and not much knowledge at $100 an hour shop rate I can see why some would condem a part.  But with shop rate that high as posted on the YTmag forum, I'd wonder why so much time to spend on the computer.
 
But that's probably why someone offered me $200 to see one that underwent extensive work.
 
I've got a stack of cylinder heads for these old engines piled up like coard wood in an old horse shed.  For kicks after reading this thread I went and looked at a few early and late, tall and short.  One of the short heads I had has threaded valve seats in it, no seats as someone removed them, but verry large bores for it and cut deep.  Something odd.  Though the decks on all the short heads are thicker than any of the tall heads.  Period.  Trust me, I've cut apart and sonic tested my share of heads.
 
The best head to use for a "performance" application for a pulling tractor is the old 3" tall Leroi head.  It's cast different than an Allis.
 
I'm not going to sit here and argue for hours on end, but I'm makeing the point that it's not tough to keep these old Allis engines alive and well.  Mine can't tell a difference sitting around running grain augers or rakeing hay.  They don't care if the valve is positioned a few thousandths high or low, just so that it seals properly.


Edited by wi50 - 22 Jan 2012 at 12:19pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
Back to Top
mlpankey View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 4:41pm
Originally posted by wi50 wi50 wrote:

In  the time pankey spent lying to us in this thread I could have reconditioned a stack of stock cylinder heads to a sufficient status for use in any of our old tractors.  It costs me less than a whopping $100 for a complete set of valves, guides, springs, etc.  For that I don't spend much time with old parts.
 
If there's a junk head in TN, I'll fix it (cylinder head that is).  Never found one yet that I couldn't deal with or use in another application.  Cutting and installing seats is a real simple task, and one doesn't have to get carried away, one can trim the seats easy enough.  Though with poor tools, inadequate supplies and not much knowledge at $100 an hour shop rate I can see why some would condem a part.  But with shop rate that high as posted on the YTmag forum, I'd wonder why so much time to spend on the computer.
 
But that's probably why someone offered me $200 to see one that underwent extensive work.
 
I've got a stack of cylinder heads for these old engines piled up like coard wood in an old horse shed.  For kicks after reading this thread I went and looked at a few early and late, tall and short.  One of the short heads I had has threaded valve seats in it, no seats as someone removed them, but verry large bores for it and cut deep.  Something odd.  Though the decks on all the short heads are thicker than any of the tall heads.  Period.  Trust me, I've cut apart and sonic tested my share of heads.
 
The best head to use for a "performance" application for a pulling tractor is the old 3" tall Leroi head.  It's cast different than an Allis.
 
I'm not going to sit here and argue for hours on end, but I'm makeing the point that it's not tough to keep these old Allis engines alive and well.  Mine can't tell a difference sitting around running grain augers or rakeing hay.  They don't care if the valve is positioned a few thousandths high or low, just so that it seals properly.
if i lied or mislead with picture as much as some get question from others about there pictures of clutches etc. it would appear my parts would be still in classifieds and not sold but my have sold and yours even with me saying its cheap  enough are stll in the classifieds . i never offered 200 to seei. it was a bet that it wouldnt flow those numbersyou advetized and you declined. I have cranks cylinders heads etc. in several  eastern united states.

Edited by mlpankey - 22 Jan 2012 at 5:12pm
Back to Top
wi50 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 24 Sep 2010
Location: weegieland
Points: 1010
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 5:11pm
so now you want to try and backpedal on something else, the village idiot posts again.
 
Average items sell, ever notice that? 
 
Exceptional items only appeal to a verry small market.  That cylinder head made pankey so jelous a year agoe that he offered me $200 to see it.  Rember.  Weather I sell it or not makes no difference to me. 
 
Why did I sell a bunch of average items?  There's a market for them.  That's why pankey can sell his things, they appeal to the average market place. 
 
Like I've posted in the past, your a$$ kicking will continue untill your IQ improves.
 
Pank, go read other threads, people are all posting the same things.  Don't show any more stupidity or ignorance and take a break from posting.  Spend some time in the gym, by the looks of your Christmas pics on YT you could use some excercise, you'll live a lot longer.
 
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
Back to Top
mlpankey View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by wi50 wi50 wrote:

so now you want to try and backpedal on something else, the village idiot posts again.
 
Average items sell, ever notice that? 
 
Exceptional items only appeal to a verry small market.  That cylinder head made pankey so jelous a year agoe that he offered me $200 to see it.  Rember.  Weather I sell it or not makes no difference to me. 
 
Why did I sell a bunch of average items?  There's a market for them.  That's why pankey can sell his things, they appeal to the average market place. 
 
Like I've posted in the past, your a$$ kicking will continue untill your IQ improves.
 
Pank, go read other threads, people are all posting the same things.  Don't show any more stupidity or ignorance and take a break from posting.  Spend some time in the gym, by the looks of your Christmas pics on YT you could use some excercise, you'll live a lot longer.
 
somebody post his picture so when someone sees something to question besides me he can say oh it was just laying there or was used to line something else up .notice he also said he was going to send it to machine shop to be bored . he has pictures and leads one to think he does his machine work. line boring or honing isnt any trouble at all.  i like to se a wormy fellow like yourself do what you imply. probably be another lie you tell

Edited by mlpankey - 22 Jan 2012 at 5:58pm
Back to Top
Dave in il View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: Manville Il
Points: 1748
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dave in il Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 7:06pm
Remember this from the beginning of the thread?
 
"Short question: I've pulled the head off of my WD45 to extract a broken spark plug, and was wondering if there any pro's and con's of doing a valve job while it is off of the tractor? I have the head at home with me, but the rest of the tractor is 2 hours away, so I am not able to check the pistons and rings anytime soon."
 
Short answer: If the tractor was running well, not smoking when it started acting up, then it probably doesn't need valve work. If he's taking it to the machine shop to have the sparkplug removed ask the machinist to look it over.
 
It's obvious the man doesn't have the expertese dispayed by those replying, I don't either. I enjoyed the long answer to a point, lots of good info but there isn't really a need to get so personal.
AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company
Back to Top
wi50 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 24 Sep 2010
Location: weegieland
Points: 1010
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 8:02pm
I'm now a wormey fella. I've had polmolive hands, been a 40 yr old machinest, been a 20 yr old kid, even been told I was to broke to have a couple hundred bucks to fix my tractor.   All made up by the same idiot in a desperate attempt for attention makes up whatever he can.
 
I suppose some of the parts laying around for the superstock are all a lie also.  
 
Please go answer Rod B's question in the crossbreading thread....... you stumbled around it and then several others started picking on you pankey.  Maybe adress a few of Dave's questions here.  Just try to keep your lies straight or get a new tinfoil hat and try to avoid all the conspiricys going on here between the forum members.
 
I know you will read this post pankey, it'll get quoted and replied to I'm certain.  But before you make a fool of yourself any more, go read what the other fella's have to say about you in the crossbreading thread.
 
Life is tough, it's tougher when you're stupid.
 
 


Edited by wi50 - 22 Jan 2012 at 8:39pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
Back to Top
oscarjwm View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 17 Jan 2012
Location: MO
Points: 11
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oscarjwm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 11:04am
Originally posted by Brian G.  NY Brian G. NY wrote:

If you do decide that new sleeves and pistons are required, check to see if you have a WD-45 or WD engine. The pistons are different. I suspect you have a WD (201) engine rather than the WD-45 (226) engine based on the fact that it is equipped with a magneto and there is a side plate which covers the push rods.
With the head removed, it is easy to check the stroke by measuring the distance between BDC and TDC of the piston travel. 4" for the WD and 4-1/2" for the WD-45.
 
I'm starting to wonder if I have a WD or a WD-45 as well.  It definitely has WD-45 decals, which look original, but I'll have to check serial numbers once I am back with the tractor.  Luckily, the head gasket set I'm getting will fit both the WD and WD-45 engines.  I've also read that the magneto was optional equipment on the WD-45, so I'm not sure if this is definitive on whether it is a WD or WD-45. 

Thanks for the tip!
Back to Top
oscarjwm View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 17 Jan 2012
Location: MO
Points: 11
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oscarjwm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 11:16am
Update:  The machine shop cleaned and tested the head, and the valves are in great shape (which is amazing considering that it hasn't been overhauled to my knowledge in the past 30-40 years).  The broken spark plug and two manifold bolts were drilled out, and the total bill is $80.  Not bad for piece of mind, but that was one expensive and time consuming broken spark plug.
 
I plan to reinstall the head this weekend.  I don't have a shop manual and can't get one in time.  Can anyone help me out with the proper torque for the head bolts and torquing sequence for a WD-45?  As Brian G. NY pointed out, despite what the original looking decals say, I might have a WD.  Are the torque specifications different for the WD?
 
I did notice that the spark plug gap is different for the WD and WD-45.  I plan to have both sets with me just in case I actually have a WD on my hands.
 
Thanks again for your help.  I hope to have the tractor running again by the end of the weekend, after a much needed tuneup!
Back to Top
CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 11:36am
Originally posted by oscarjwm oscarjwm wrote:

 
I'm starting to wonder if I have a WD or a WD-45 as well.  It definitely has WD-45 decals, which look original, but I'll have to check serial numbers once I am back with the tractor.  Luckily, the head gasket set I'm getting will fit both the WD and WD-45 engines.  I've also read that the magneto was optional equipment on the WD-45, so I'm not sure if this is definitive on whether it is a WD or WD-45. 

Thanks for the tip!

The serial number won't tell you if the engine has been changed or if the internals have been changed. The basic difference in the WD and the 45 is the stroke and a WD block has a plate covering the push rods. That plate is behind the mag and has the oil filter housing bolted to it. WD stroke is 4 inches and the 45 is 4.5 inches. The difference in spark plug gap would probably be related to whether it had a mag(WD) or a distributor(45). Make sure you don't have resistor wires or plugs with the Magneto.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
Back to Top
mlpankey View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 12:21pm
If i remember correctly its 90 lbs on the 1/2 inch and 55 on the smaller bolts . without the manual in front of me . start with the center bolts and work your way to the ends
Back to Top
Brian G. NY View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: 12194
Points: 2198
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 1:32pm
Oscar,
I can't remember whether or not the head thickness has been talked about in this thread, but the early WD head is 3" thick (casting number U 3001) and the later WD and the WD-45 heads are 4" thick (casting #AM3820).
The thicker head was introduced on the WD with Engine #289000 sometime in mid 1951.
I don't think, from what I've heard from the more knowledgable guys on this site, there is much difference in performance between the two.
I only mention this because if your head is 3" thick, it would be just one more indication that you probably have a 201 WD engine.
You've certainly elicited a lot of discussion with your inquiry!
I had to look up the torque values as my memory ain't that good.
According to the manual 90 lbs. on the large bolts and 25 lbs. on the 3/8" Bolts.
Back to Top
JeffMOnt View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ottawa, Ont
Points: 129
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote JeffMOnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 2:56pm
This is what my manual states.

Tighten models
WC, WD, WD45 and WF 1/2 inch
studs to 70 foot pounds and 3/8 inch
studs to 2S foot pounds torque.

Not sure why there is a difference in the manuals.


Edited by JeffMOnt - 26 Jan 2012 at 2:56pm
Back to Top
Brian G. NY View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: 12194
Points: 2198
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 7:13pm
My D-17 Manual says 90-95 lbs on the 1/2" head bolts.
Back to Top
JeffMOnt View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ottawa, Ont
Points: 129
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeffMOnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 8:33pm
The specs I got were from the wd-45 manual I have.
Back to Top
SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8019
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 10:28pm
The D17 has stouter bolts.My original WDservice manual says 65ft/lb and 25. The bolts in my 45 only had 2 with marks on the head( GR 5).The rest were plain so I wouldn't bet that they would take 90 ft/lb. Just be sure to get it good and warmed up for say an hour or so then let it cool over night and retorque cold,then set the valves @.015 cold and button it up. You may find you can't get a torque wrench on water manifold  and if they are fine thd the true tq value would be different but don't let it get to ya.Just use an end wrench and pull "bout so much".
Back to Top
Brian G. NY View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: 12194
Points: 2198
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 1:46pm
My original Torque values (90 lbs and 25 lbs) were taken from this manual.
Back to Top
BurtIA View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 27 Nov 2009
Location: Amana, IA
Points: 121
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote BurtIA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 7:36pm
You asked a short question but I didn't see any short answers. Short answer, get the broken spark out, put it back together, tune it up and go.
 
This thread was kinda like asking "what time is it?" and someone explains how the watch works.
Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid!

John Wayne
Back to Top
JeffMOnt View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ottawa, Ont
Points: 129
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeffMOnt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 7:55pm
The one I have is the I&T shop manual for B, Rc, Wd45 Diesel, C, Wc, Ca, Wd, Wf, G Wd45 models.
Back to Top
Ryan Renko View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2315
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 8:00pm
Amen Burt!!!!!
Back to Top
Steve in NJ View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11558
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 9:08pm
Dave,
Funny you mentioned that explanation about lapping in the valves, and in about 2 hours have the head ready to go. That's exactly what I did to my WC's cylinder head this past summer. I re-installed the cylinder head, stuck the Mag in and set the Mag timing, but never got to fire the engine because we sold the house, and it continued to rain, and had to move everything. I just fired the WC's engine tonight since I assembled the top half last summer, and it fired right up and ran pretty smoothly even in the cold weather. I didn't run it to long because there wasn't much coolant in the system yet, but for a "quicky" lap job and a freshing up, it worked out quite nicely. No smoke either. Now my B was another story. I had to install new seats, valves, n' guides. That cylinder head was hurtin'.....  LOL!
Steve@B&B
Back to Top
DaveKamp View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5642
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2012 at 11:42pm
You won't find valve-lapping procedures in the owner's manual of a modern car, truck, or tractor, Steve... but it was a standard maintenance routine for machines back then.  First time I ever did it, was on a 3.5hp Briggs lawnmower engine when I was 11.  Darned thing wouldn't run worth crap, so a neighbor gave it to me to mess with.  After wrenching on it for a while, my Dad (who isn't by any measure a mechanic, but did restore Model A Fords) told me to try lapping the valves... and so I grabbed his MAF book, read the procedure, and figured out how to get the spring keepers out (used a pair of screwdrivers), lapped 'em, and put it back together, and she started right up after that.  Made good money mowing lawns with that old mower...
Back to Top
oscarjwm View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 17 Jan 2012
Location: MO
Points: 11
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oscarjwm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 8:16am

Can't figure out how to delete this entry- but see my intended post below.



Edited by oscarjwm - 30 Jan 2012 at 8:19am
Back to Top
oscarjwm View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 17 Jan 2012
Location: MO
Points: 11
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oscarjwm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 8:18am
Originally posted by BurtIA BurtIA wrote:

You asked a short question but I didn't see any short answers. Short answer, get the broken spark out, put it back together, tune it up and go.
 
This thread was kinda like asking "what time is it?" and someone explains how the watch works.
That ended up being the short answer.  $80 dollars from the machine shop to drill out 2 broken exhaust manifold studs, drill out the spark plug, clean the head and check the valves.  I installed a new water pump, new fan belt, installed the head, set the valves at 0.015 (cold), and then spent the next several hours trying to figure out why it was only hitting on 3 cylinders.
 
Turns out that sometime in the last couple years while the tractor was down, I had removed the spark plug wires and reversed the #1 and #2 wire (I was too excited to start it up so I had put off putting on new wires until it was running).  I put on new plug wires, took off the magneto cap and centered the flywheel at the "F" position through he inspection plate, set the magneto rotor on the timing lug on the magneto cap... and she fired right up!  She is running smoother that she has in years.  I reset the valves hot to 0.012, retorqued the head bolts, and look forward to doing some brushogging and log-pulling this summer.  Thanks to everyone for their advice!
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.078 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum