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Valve Job on a WD45? |
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BobHnwO
Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Jenera Ohio Points: 693 |
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You guys all go take a pill or somethin!!!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5082 |
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True but reads a bit over simplified. There happens to be a few of the details that needs to be understood. I have in the past put on pictures of cylinder heads that people that thought is was just that simple and ended up with a head that would not hold compression. The task of lapping is probly the most understood part. Lapping does not take the place of grinding or cutting seats and refacing the valves. Lapping is in addition to. Lapping is done like a washing machine agitator works not spun with an electric drill. |
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5082 |
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I'm Sorry. I didn't resist the earge to enter the slide away from the question as I should have.
If the above engine was mine I would rework the head and if I had the funds I would rebuild the bottom while it was partly disassembled. However if it was not a oil using smoker before, and didn't have a bunch of money to put into it, I would put the head back on and repair other necessary parts.
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mlpankey
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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Dave if using your advice all 226 oem springs need changed or some need to man up . 1 3/4 height oem spring 30-39lbs 1 5/16 55-65 lbs on seat for oem a man should be able to push either of those down with his hand
Edited by mlpankey - 21 Jan 2012 at 6:40pm |
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5642 |
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Okay, Pank- time to learn to read, then think, without opening mouth- you've already got two feet in it already:
"if you can't get the valve to move by pressing with the heel of your hand, you've got plenty of seat force." How does this test condemn a spring? DUH-- it doesn't... but it DOES prove that the spring is stout enough to not need a lick of attention. You're right on about the grinding process, Dick- I've got a slick little valve grinder and several different guide-mandrel type motorized grinding tools here- one of 'em is somewhat of a rarity- it's a Brown & Sharpe from the early '50's, and it does a really nice job, but I've only needed it twice... once many years ago for a Hercules JXLD (331ci flathead six) in a generator that I rescued, and most recently in a Fairbanks-Morse 118ci oilfield single. The former had been sitting with that port full of rain, and the valve yanked the seat out when I rolled it over, and the latter had it's exhaust valve stem incredibly-well adhered to the guide... I had to torch the (sodium filled) valve out, in order to drive the guide and stem duo out, and push in a new guide. In the process, I spalled a little spot in the guide, but rather than yank out an otherwise perfectly good piece, I just ground it a smidgen, lapped it in, and put it back together. I've never found need to employ the grinder on any Allis heads, nor have I ever found a head that needed a $300 bill to get a cylinder head solidly back in the land of the living. Reiterating his original explanation... he was bushhogging, and it got fussy... went to pull a plug, and the plug broke off. If he was bushhogging, I'm thinkin' it wasn't in too bad'a shape to begin with. Now, Pankey's original allegation was that valve damage should be expected on the basis that the Allis engine was somehow intolerant of fuels without lead. I called him on this lie, and he should've been bright enough to not go there in the first place. He's got a little inferiority complex going on. Perhaps someday he'll learn that lying to newbies is the number-one way to dash friendships old-and-new, but based on how he's treated people elsewhere, I really don't think that's going to happen. |
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Ryan Renko
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2315 |
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How about those St. Louis Blues!! I may get to see a stanley cup in my lifetime in St. Louis!!! Ryan
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Ryan Renko
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2315 |
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Just thought I would try to relieve the tension among our orange friends!! Ryan
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wi50
Orange Level Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: weegieland Points: 1010 |
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In the time pankey spent lying to us in this thread I could have reconditioned a stack of stock cylinder heads to a sufficient status for use in any of our old tractors. It costs me less than a whopping $100 for a complete set of valves, guides, springs, etc. For that I don't spend much time with old parts.
If there's a junk head in TN, I'll fix it (cylinder head that is). Never found one yet that I couldn't deal with or use in another application. Cutting and installing seats is a real simple task, and one doesn't have to get carried away, one can trim the seats easy enough. Though with poor tools, inadequate supplies and not much knowledge at $100 an hour shop rate I can see why some would condem a part. But with shop rate that high as posted on the YTmag forum, I'd wonder why so much time to spend on the computer.
But that's probably why someone offered me $200 to see one that underwent extensive work.
I've got a stack of cylinder heads for these old engines piled up like coard wood in an old horse shed. For kicks after reading this thread I went and looked at a few early and late, tall and short. One of the short heads I had has threaded valve seats in it, no seats as someone removed them, but verry large bores for it and cut deep. Something odd. Though the decks on all the short heads are thicker than any of the tall heads. Period. Trust me, I've cut apart and sonic tested my share of heads.
The best head to use for a "performance" application for a pulling tractor is the old 3" tall Leroi head. It's cast different than an Allis.
I'm not going to sit here and argue for hours on end, but I'm makeing the point that it's not tough to keep these old Allis engines alive and well. Mine can't tell a difference sitting around running grain augers or rakeing hay. They don't care if the valve is positioned a few thousandths high or low, just so that it seals properly. Edited by wi50 - 22 Jan 2012 at 12:19pm |
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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Edited by mlpankey - 22 Jan 2012 at 5:12pm |
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wi50
Orange Level Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: weegieland Points: 1010 |
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so now you want to try and backpedal on something else, the village idiot posts again.
Average items sell, ever notice that?
Exceptional items only appeal to a verry small market. That cylinder head made pankey so jelous a year agoe that he offered me $200 to see it. Rember. Weather I sell it or not makes no difference to me.
Why did I sell a bunch of average items? There's a market for them. That's why pankey can sell his things, they appeal to the average market place.
Like I've posted in the past, your a$$ kicking will continue untill your IQ improves.
Pank, go read other threads, people are all posting the same things. Don't show any more stupidity or ignorance and take a break from posting. Spend some time in the gym, by the looks of your Christmas pics on YT you could use some excercise, you'll live a lot longer.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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Edited by mlpankey - 22 Jan 2012 at 5:58pm |
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Dave in il
Orange Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Manville Il Points: 1748 |
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Remember this from the beginning of the thread? Short answer: If the tractor was running well, not smoking when it started acting up, then it probably doesn't need valve work. If he's taking it to the machine shop to have the sparkplug removed ask the machinist to look it over. It's obvious the man doesn't have the expertese dispayed by those replying, I don't either. I enjoyed the long answer to a point, lots of good info but there isn't really a need to get so personal.
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AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company
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wi50
Orange Level Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: weegieland Points: 1010 |
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I'm now a wormey fella. I've had polmolive hands, been a 40 yr old machinest, been a 20 yr old kid, even been told I was to broke to have a couple hundred bucks to fix my tractor. All made up by the same idiot in a desperate attempt for attention makes up whatever he can.
I suppose some of the parts laying around for the superstock are all a lie also.
Please go answer Rod B's question in the crossbreading thread....... you stumbled around it and then several others started picking on you pankey. Maybe adress a few of Dave's questions here. Just try to keep your lies straight or get a new tinfoil hat and try to avoid all the conspiricys going on here between the forum members.
I know you will read this post pankey, it'll get quoted and replied to I'm certain. But before you make a fool of yourself any more, go read what the other fella's have to say about you in the crossbreading thread.
Life is tough, it's tougher when you're stupid.
Edited by wi50 - 22 Jan 2012 at 8:39pm |
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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oscarjwm
Bronze Level Joined: 17 Jan 2012 Location: MO Points: 11 |
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I'm starting to wonder if I have a WD or a WD-45 as well. It definitely has WD-45 decals, which look original, but I'll have to check serial numbers once I am back with the tractor. Luckily, the head gasket set I'm getting will fit both the WD and WD-45 engines. I've also read that the magneto was optional equipment on the WD-45, so I'm not sure if this is definitive on whether it is a WD or WD-45. Thanks for the tip! |
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oscarjwm
Bronze Level Joined: 17 Jan 2012 Location: MO Points: 11 |
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Update: The machine shop cleaned and tested the head, and the valves are in great shape (which is amazing considering that it hasn't been overhauled to my knowledge in the past 30-40 years). The broken spark plug and two manifold bolts were drilled out, and the total bill is $80. Not bad for piece of mind, but that was one expensive and time consuming broken spark plug.
I plan to reinstall the head this weekend. I don't have a shop manual and can't get one in time. Can anyone help me out with the proper torque for the head bolts and torquing sequence for a WD-45? As Brian G. NY pointed out, despite what the original looking decals say, I might have a WD. Are the torque specifications different for the WD? I did notice that the spark plug gap is different for the WD and WD-45. I plan to have both sets with me just in case I actually have a WD on my hands. Thanks again for your help. I hope to have the tractor running again by the end of the weekend, after a much needed tuneup!
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22810 |
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The serial number won't tell you if the engine has been changed or if the internals have been changed. The basic difference in the WD and the 45 is the stroke and a WD block has a plate covering the push rods. That plate is behind the mag and has the oil filter housing bolted to it. WD stroke is 4 inches and the 45 is 4.5 inches. The difference in spark plug gap would probably be related to whether it had a mag(WD) or a distributor(45). Make sure you don't have resistor wires or plugs with the Magneto.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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mlpankey
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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If i remember correctly its 90 lbs on the 1/2 inch and 55 on the smaller bolts . without the manual in front of me . start with the center bolts and work your way to the ends
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Brian G. NY
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2198 |
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Oscar,
I can't remember whether or not the head thickness has been talked about in this thread, but the early WD head is 3" thick (casting number U 3001) and the later WD and the WD-45 heads are 4" thick (casting #AM3820).
The thicker head was introduced on the WD with Engine #289000 sometime in mid 1951.
I don't think, from what I've heard from the more knowledgable guys on this site, there is much difference in performance between the two.
I only mention this because if your head is 3" thick, it would be just one more indication that you probably have a 201 WD engine.
You've certainly elicited a lot of discussion with your inquiry!
I had to look up the torque values as my memory ain't that good.
According to the manual 90 lbs. on the large bolts and 25 lbs. on the 3/8" Bolts.
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JeffMOnt
Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ottawa, Ont Points: 129 |
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This is what my manual states.
Tighten models WC, WD, WD45 and WF 1/2 inch studs to 70 foot pounds and 3/8 inch studs to 2S foot pounds torque. Not sure why there is a difference in the manuals.
Edited by JeffMOnt - 26 Jan 2012 at 2:56pm |
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Brian G. NY
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2198 |
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My D-17 Manual says 90-95 lbs on the 1/2" head bolts.
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JeffMOnt
Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ottawa, Ont Points: 129 |
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The specs I got were from the wd-45 manual I have.
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8019 |
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The D17 has stouter bolts.My original WDservice manual says 65ft/lb and 25. The bolts in my 45 only had 2 with marks on the head( GR 5).The rest were plain so I wouldn't bet that they would take 90 ft/lb. Just be sure to get it good and warmed up for say an hour or so then let it cool over night and retorque cold,then set the valves @.015 cold and button it up. You may find you can't get a torque wrench on water manifold and if they are fine thd the true tq value would be different but don't let it get to ya.Just use an end wrench and pull "bout so much".
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Brian G. NY
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2198 |
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My original Torque values (90 lbs and 25 lbs) were taken from this manual.
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BurtIA
Silver Level Joined: 27 Nov 2009 Location: Amana, IA Points: 121 |
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You asked a short question but I didn't see any short answers. Short answer, get the broken spark out, put it back together, tune it up and go.
This thread was kinda like asking "what time is it?" and someone explains how the watch works.
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Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid!
John Wayne |
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JeffMOnt
Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ottawa, Ont Points: 129 |
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The one I have is the I&T shop manual for B, Rc, Wd45 Diesel, C, Wc, Ca, Wd, Wf, G Wd45 models.
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Ryan Renko
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2315 |
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Amen Burt!!!!!
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11558 |
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Dave,
Funny you mentioned that explanation about lapping in the valves, and in about 2 hours have the head ready to go. That's exactly what I did to my WC's cylinder head this past summer. I re-installed the cylinder head, stuck the Mag in and set the Mag timing, but never got to fire the engine because we sold the house, and it continued to rain, and had to move everything. I just fired the WC's engine tonight since I assembled the top half last summer, and it fired right up and ran pretty smoothly even in the cold weather. I didn't run it to long because there wasn't much coolant in the system yet, but for a "quicky" lap job and a freshing up, it worked out quite nicely. No smoke either. Now my B was another story. I had to install new seats, valves, n' guides. That cylinder head was hurtin'..... LOL! Steve@B&B |
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5642 |
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You won't find valve-lapping procedures in the owner's manual of a modern car, truck, or tractor, Steve... but it was a standard maintenance routine for machines back then. First time I ever did it, was on a 3.5hp Briggs lawnmower engine when I was 11. Darned thing wouldn't run worth crap, so a neighbor gave it to me to mess with. After wrenching on it for a while, my Dad (who isn't by any measure a mechanic, but did restore Model A Fords) told me to try lapping the valves... and so I grabbed his MAF book, read the procedure, and figured out how to get the spring keepers out (used a pair of screwdrivers), lapped 'em, and put it back together, and she started right up after that. Made good money mowing lawns with that old mower...
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oscarjwm
Bronze Level Joined: 17 Jan 2012 Location: MO Points: 11 |
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Can't figure out how to delete this entry- but see my intended post below. Edited by oscarjwm - 30 Jan 2012 at 8:19am |
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oscarjwm
Bronze Level Joined: 17 Jan 2012 Location: MO Points: 11 |
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That ended up being the short answer. $80 dollars from the machine shop to drill out 2 broken exhaust manifold studs, drill out the spark plug, clean the head and check the valves. I installed a new water pump, new fan belt, installed the head, set the valves at 0.015 (cold), and then spent the next several hours trying to figure out why it was only hitting on 3 cylinders.
Turns out that sometime in the last couple years while the tractor was down, I had removed the spark plug wires and reversed the #1 and #2 wire (I was too excited to start it up so I had put off putting on new wires until it was running). I put on new plug wires, took off the magneto cap and centered the flywheel at the "F" position through he inspection plate, set the magneto rotor on the timing lug on the magneto cap... and she fired right up! She is running smoother that she has in years. I reset the valves hot to 0.012, retorqued the head bolts, and look forward to doing some brushogging and log-pulling this summer. Thanks to everyone for their advice! |
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