allis chalmers hd 16 dp buda 844 engine

Have apart bearing spun on top of other have photos just not sure on the best way to post on here 

cheers

a bit different one on top off other

bearings  

cheers  

Ok Russell; The engine may need to be removed for repairs. However to ensure the crankshaft will require regrinding it needs measured up before going much further. I would take an inch wide and 18' length piece of emery cloth strip and after rotating the crankpin, (journal) to the bottom of it's stroke and pushing the rod away for clearance, polish that journal with the abrasive pulling the emery cloth fully around the journal each way using your hands. Usually the soft babbit, antimony, and copper based materials will easily remove with the cloth. You will than need to clean that journal using a clean, lint free cloth. Using an outside micrometer measure the journal top and bottom, and side to side at perpendicular axis to one another. This will tell you if the journal is out of round. Any more than about a .001" - .0015 out of round and the engine probably won't hold a bearing very long. If the journal is out of round, you can wager the rod is also and probably worse. These most times can be repaired also, but it requires cutting the cap and resizing the rod journal end to correct dimensions. 

If it were me, I'd clean that journal up best possible with engine in the tractor, get a good measurement and ascertain this part before going further. If proven satisfactory for both dimension, and out of round, then rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees, and pull the rod and piston down with a wire around it's base, install the rod cap, and measure the interior at 90 degree spacing basically the same as you did the crankshaft journal. If anything is found out of tolerance, the engine will need further repair.

Given the scuffing I see on the other bearing shell you posted, the engine could use a "freshening" which is easy in the grand scheme of things. Citing the engine still has standard sized journals is in your favor for economical repairs, (relatively speaking). 

I'm interested in what you find out with the measurements. Keep the sump mounted back up onto the engine to preclude any rusting from the humidity in the air too along with catching airborne dirt.   

Hi Russell;

I typically use 320 Emery cloth when polishing journals. Also use a light machine oil and polish just till a clean surface. I expect you will need another connecting rod but am always conservative on the internet with suggestions as to not paint "doom and gloom" which is so prevalent. I think if the crank journal is found to be good, you can pull cylinder head #1, install a bolt and clipped washer into the block deck to ensure the liner doesn't push out of the block while you push the piston and rod out from the bottom to renew the connecting rod. Hopefully the prognosis is good once the crankshaft is measured up. Many times a rod can be resized, but many times not.

I wouldn't attempt to pull the engine with the hard nose and radiator in place myself as it needs to move forward to clear encumbrances to remove. Usually best to lift a little and pull more from the front than straight up. A wheel loader, or crawler loader is a good tool to use for the lifting as everything is heavy. Hopefully you can do an inframe rebuild and all be good. Regardless it will be much easier to work with if the blade and push beams are removed.    

Hi Russell;

Don't know if I've ever seen an engine where you could remove the wrist pin from the piston with the crank still in place. I really cannot say for certain but probably not. Many times those pins will push free with a little force after the circlips are removed from their ends. Sometimes a little more force than fingers is needed and I've used a large "C" clamp and spacer a lot of times but usually a hydraulic shop press is the tool to use.

I would get those exhaust studs and/or nuts soaking in 50/50 ATF Acetone mix a couple of times per day. Then a torch to warm the fasteners red, allow to cool, then red again and after a cooling period attempt to gingerly break them free. It would be helpful if a helper were to warm the area around the fastener just before you apply torque to the frozen fastener to expand the direct area. The penetrant works, but takes a while when things are really bad.

 

You could start with 240grit but it will scratch deep if aggressive. That bearing has been very hot to be adhered so tightly. Not what I consider abnormal as the appearance from your other bearing shells reveals oil starvation. 

I have not had the chance to get back to the crank i have a lot of cleaning up to do there hope i get the metal of and its ok underneath

cheers