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D15 Voltage regulator?

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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D15 Voltage regulator?
    Posted: 19 Oct 2026 at 9:42pm
So i took my VR and generator off to carry to the repair shop. The voltage regulator mounting bracket was toast. The rubber shock bars were broken, checked another D15 there same thing. Hoping the repair shop can get new VR like the old ones. Don't know what is available yet. What brand are you running on yours? Thanks, Tracy
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Phil48ACWC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phil48ACWC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2026 at 6:06am
I converted my WC to 12V Negative Ground with a 10SI Alternator with built in solid state regulator. I got the alternator from a junkyard, took it apart, cleaned it up, swapped the pulley from my old generator, and put new bearings and brushes in it. That was 27 years ago and no regrets. The only things I had to do with it over that time was replace the fan belt and adjust the belt tension. Generators and mechanical voltage regulators were pretty much gone before Elvis died. D&B Electrical has best prices. Click on below:


Or ebay has lots of 10SI alternators. I like the 3 wire units better but they are getting harder to find.


Edited by Phil48ACWC - 20 Oct 2026 at 12:12pm
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PaulB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2026 at 8:10am
If you buy from D&B electrical, I hope you get a better product than what I did from them. I got a New starter for my 89 Dodge/Cummings from them thinking an American company would sell quality products. Was I ever wrong, I received a box with a label from a Chinese company. I installed this starter early in June of 2024. this had a one year warranty. Just before July 4th of 2025 the starter was dead. Like something from Henry Ford, it outlasted the warranty, nothing more. The original starter that came on the truck lasted 35 years. After that, I got a Starter from "Mean Green" and so far it has been doing it's job.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2026 at 8:25am
Im sure every company has an OOOPS now and then.. In general, D&B has a 5 star rating on their sales, quality and warranty claims..  I have bought a couple alternators from them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2026 at 8:48am
Tracy, you might want to think about a solid state regulator.  I went through the usual bunch of cheap overseas conventional regulators failing, then bought a solid state regulator for my D17.  It has been on the tractor for over 10 years now, with no problems at all.  The solid state regulators aren't common at tractor parts places, but are very easy to find in the classic car world.  I stayed with the stock generator for my tractor, instead of going the alternator route.  It's a common Delco generator, and finding a matching regulator shouldn't be hard.  The only caveat is you have to decide on the polarity you want, and match the regulator to that. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2026 at 2:32pm
My local shop uses Regitar brand voltage regulators.  They are one of the few decent brands out there according to them.  I have had pretty good luck with them.  Sometimes the odd one goes bad after some years.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2026 at 6:53pm
I will see what is available from the genny repair place. They came highly reccomended. Hope to hear from them soon. Thanks, Tracy
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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2026 at 5:51pm
Ok, got both gennys and 2 new VR from shop. After rebuild he checked with voltage regulator and polarized them. 
 I installed one on a D15 II. It shows no charge, it has an old SW ampheres gage on it. Could the gage be bad? How do I check to see if it is? This voltage regulator has a lug on back. I hooked A wire from genny to it. The VR has 3 lugs on the bottom on it, from left to right they are, L ,bat, F. I left L vacant, it was before, hooked battery wire to BAT, hooked Field wire from genny to F. 
 My other tractor id a D15 I, VR is located different place on it. I did go ahead and hook the genny up. But I have a question. This VR is same as other I installed, 1 lug on back, 3 lugs below. All marked same as other. Could the other(previous) VR had the lugs marked different. My pic of the VR before it was took off has all 3 bottom, which now will be side lugs used. It has the Field wire where L lug is, A is on back, BAT is on BAT, and a black wire would be on the Field lug. I haven't hooked it up. I don't have the old regulators to check. Just my pic on phone. Didn't want to fry or let the smoke out. Any help much appreciated. Thanks, Tracy


Edited by Tracy Martin TN - 29 Oct 2026 at 5:52pm
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2026 at 7:50pm
almost all regulators today are setup with the "G" or generator "A"  terminal on the back... on the front you have the L , BAT, and F ........ many dont use the L terminal, its just a second Battery terminal that dont go thru the contacts..... years ago we had 3 wire regulators and no "L" terminal... the "F" might have been on the front on those... the terminal on the back might have been a GROUND WIRE to the frame... not necessarily the F or G terminall....... but they should have been clearly marked..




Edited by steve(ill) - 29 Oct 2026 at 8:01pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2026 at 7:55pm
to BYPASS the regulator, you touch the "G" terminal and the "Bat" terminals together.. that polarizes the system, and also sends the "G" or "A" ( generator output) straight to the amp meter... you should see that..... also if you GROUND the "F" terminal to the tractor frame, that bypasses the other half of the regulator.

"F" ia always on one end
"L" is always on the other end
If you have no "L", then "BAT is on the end and the  "G"  ( gen A terminal) is in the middle.
If "G" is in the middle, then the stud on the back is a Ground stud.


Edited by steve(ill) - 29 Oct 2026 at 8:21pm
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2026 at 8:12pm
here is a 75 year old drawing of a 6 v system with the "G" or "A" on the front, and no "L" terminal..... notice there is an "F" terminal on the front and a GROUND stud on the side or back..


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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2026 at 8:14pm
Steve, I will try to polarize it again , using your method. I can also try to ground F to tractor frame. 
 The tractor did charge before it quit. What is puzzling is the placement of the Field wire on NEW VR. It will be opposite of the old previous one. Just wanted to make sure and not fry anything. Thanks, Tracy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2026 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by Tracy Martin TN Tracy Martin TN wrote:

...it has an old SW ampheres gage on it. Could the gage be bad? How do I check to see if it is? ...

If the voltage at the battery increases to the proper level (around 7 on a six volt, 13+ on a twelve volt) then the system is indeed charging regardless of what the ammeter reads. This assumes that the ammeter is wired correctly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 8:19am
Over the years I’ve gotten several parts that puked right after the warranty expired like GM parts. Goes both ways.
It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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Tracy Martin TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tracy Martin TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 10:39am
Another thing that bothers me is how close to touching the rear lug is when installed. Very little clearance at that point.Thinking about a spacer .Thanks, Tracy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 9 hours 38 minutes ago at 9:05am
Yes it is possible that the ammeter is bad.  
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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