HD6 final drive bearing crossreference

Well, the outboard idler shaft bearing on the HD6 packed it in on me, and I'm looking for a bearing number from that bearing before I start taking things apart, the Allis part numbers are 51437 and 51438... does anyone have one around that they can look at and give me a timken or SKF number from? 

I think it died from lack of lube... they had a bunch of grease in the final drive because the seal was leaking, and it was about -10C when I was using it, so the grease probably didn't flow enough, even though there was oil in there as well.  It will jump the teeth if I put any power or brake on it, and the brake pedal pulsates like hell too... With any luck, it didn't do too much damage to the inner bearing.  Has anyone replaced this bearing alone before?  It looks possible to do if I slacken the track, wedge something in the rear sprocket, and back it up a little in order to lift the track up enough to give me some clearance to work, from there, assuming the bearing hasn't welded itself, I should be able to get it out.  As far as heat goes, the casing got to about room temp before I noticed something was wrong (it was just warm enough to dry the casing off)... I had worked it for about 45 minutes or so.

If anyone has any tips, let me know... and if you're a person who doesn't mind text messages, my number is 778 549 109three.

Thanks all!

I think you are talking about the outboard bearing on the final drive. The cup is link belt 3HB94-0 I can't read the number on the cone. I posted pictures when I replaced this bearing in December 2012. There are 3 bearings on the shaft. The problem you discribe involves more than one bearing. You will need to split the track, move the truck frame and remove the sprocket to get at the problem. Sorry for the bad news.

Your lucky - when that bearing goes bad - a split open case in the area is the outcome. 

new bearings require different shims. be sure not to get it too tight. i was always taught a little loose is better than a little tight. if you need to get the inner raced out, i weld them in the echter and let them cool and the about fall out. since you have everything else still installed, try heating it up with a torch and letting it coo and it should be easier to get out. the bearings are pressed on the shaft. if i remember right, the shaft is drilled and tapped so you can put a slide hammer on it or a puller and pull the outer race out with the shaft. be sure to count the needles and get them all because one of them going through your gears will be bad. very bad. i have some shafts and gears from a hd5 which should be the same if you need them. good luck.

I'd like to try just replacing the outer bearing for now, if I can do it without taking everything apart, if it fails again, I know the inner is gone, and I'm going to have to take everything apart anyhow... I'll just be out the cost of a bearing for the trial, but considering how major a deal it is to take the track, etc off, I figure it's worth a try.

you think it's possible to take both halves of the outer bearing off without taking the drive sprocket off?

DadsDozer, if you have the gears accessible, you think you can see if you can find a bearing number for that outer idler shaft bearing?

Thanks for the help

I didn't realize it was a doublereduction final drive... the failed bearing is the one from the steering/brake clutch shaft... the top one.

I took the cover off, a bottle jack lifted the track enough to be able to, and the bearing was totally gone. gear looks OK from what I see.  The biggest issue I see is that the inner bearing race ground the outside race seat a bit, but not all the way out to the edge, there's still lots of good meat there for the bearing, but it concerns me that the shaft was able to move inward about 1/2".  I have the manual, but it just shows each assembly individually, and I have a hard time understanding how that shaft is driven... From what I can see, there's a hub on a tapered spline on the inside that holds the clutch/brakes... Now.. what would cause the shaft to be able to move inward that far.  The shaft, without the bearing holding it in place on the outside can move around a lot.. could it break the hub?

I got the part number from  the bearing on the opposite side (MR120), but my bearing dealer says there should be a second part to it.. like MR 1209TV or something, but I certainly didn't see that on the bearing

If I could get an accurate shaft size, that would help... Also, I believe the bearing can be separated (outer and inner), which one holds the rollers?  Does the inner race get pressed onto the shaft first, then the outer race on top of it, with the rollers? Or is it inseperable, so that you need to put both in at the same time

Remember that I'm looking at the topshaft now


dadsdozer... thanks, Really appreciate it... you want another Cub?

i checked my stock today and learned something. the bearings do not ride right on the shaft, they do have inner races. i need to wash them to get the numbers. i will also pass along the seal numbers.

Any luck getting part numbers?

Thanks so much, I'll get them ordered, I think that'll about do it, I'll let you know how it goes... don't hold your breath though, might take a month or two to get to it

Thanks again

So is it all working good now ?

Thought I'd update this.. no, it's not all good, the inner bearings are gone too I think.. I only moved it a couple feet since I don't want to bugger the new bearing.. I haven't had the courage to take it apart and see how involved it is to get the steering clutches out...

I'd also like to add that the MR1210E (outer) bearing is a LinkBelt bearing, which may help someone find a source for them..  Perhaps the inners are also available through LinkBelt.