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B engine oil pressure? |
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AJ ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Location: mo Points: 5244 |
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I took the rocker assembly off and check that slotted rocker bolt like was suggested. Took bolt and all out. Took the little supply line off that goes from brass Tee on side of head down to the fork that comes off the oil pump. Blew air through everything. Reassembled most of it. Before I put the little line on the oil pump Tee I cranked the engine a couple revolutions to see if oil would come out since I knew oil was getting to the oil filter side. I did get oil to come out the other side by cranking the engine. So I put the little line back on primed it with my oil can and put the other end on. Started the engine and put it at a slow idle. Impatiently waited for the oil to come out the top of the rocker arms. Seems like it took for ever. Guess it has to fill that whole tube up that the rocker move on. Finally got oil coming out the top. Engine as a knock somewhere tho, I can't tell where its coming from.
Edited by AJ - 09 Jan 2017 at 7:13am |
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Can't fix stupid
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AJ ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Location: mo Points: 5244 |
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Seems there is a sound coming from the clutch area or near the front of the engine. Maybe both.
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Can't fix stupid
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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It might be time to remove the pan and check rod bearings and the clearance. You might be able to remove shims and get rid of the knock. If you run it much wondering you could go by the chance to remove the knock without grinding the crankshaft. (MIGHT) being the key word. When checking the clearance make sure after you place the plastigage on the rod cap and before you tighten the rod cap that you back the crankshaft up so it moves the piston up a little. You need the journal against the rod bearing so you are not smashing the plastigage while pulling the piston down while tightening the rod cap. I hope you luck keeps running good on this engine. If you get the knock out get some seafoam in the new oil to loosen up the rings. You might bring up the compression after running it a while.
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AJ ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Location: mo Points: 5244 |
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Thanks Dick, I was planning to take the pan off next anyway. Good to know there might be a chance of salvaging the engine with a few shims removed. Goes I won't know till I get her open. I really don't want to rebuild this engine because it's not going to get ran a lot and hate to put a new engine in something that is going to sit more through the year that ran. The engine seam to have a little more compression now than it did prior.
Edited by AJ - 09 Jan 2017 at 7:46am |
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Can't fix stupid
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LeonR2013 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500 |
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It's been so long since I worked on those little engines that I don't remember it they have welch plugs in the head or not. If it does you might replace them on the off chance that they are seeping. Also, if the cork plugs in the end of the rocker shaft are getting loose you can lose oil pressure out the end of the shaft.
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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No pressure ever in the rocker arm tube! Oil just dribbles out around the hold down bolts and over the top of the rocker arms from its action. Pressure would cause squirting.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 86463 |
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that old WIX/ Napa oil filter probably was the cause of low pressure in the engine and possibly the "knock"... like Dick said, check the bearings / clean / reshim and possibly save from overhaul....... Make sure your using a good weight motor oil.. In the winter, 30 wt is a little thick and will take a while to build up pressure or travel thru that SMALL tube up to the rockers.. 10 wt or 10w30 would be much better right now.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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