D10 No Spark

Guys, I need a little help please. I re-wired my D10 during restoration and now I have no spark and I don't really understand how the coil works. Looking at the pic below I have juice to all the green arrows when I turn the ignition on but I get no spark on the in-line tester (yes it's working) at the blue arrow. Am I missing something or does anyone have any advice?

BTW - Should I see voltage coming out the top of the coil? I currently don't see any with my cheap light tester.

Thanks guys,

Jeff

'points' are NOT closing. Wrong gap( too wide) or insulating corrosion on points. To prove this ,turn ign on, take a wire and connect it to distributor points wire( last green arrow) and touch to ground.This 'mimics' what happens when the engine rotates and opens and closes the points. Each time you 'ground' you should get a spark from the high voltage center terminal of the coil.Simply take center lead of coil and place near engine metal about 1/4". Bright blue spark should happen every time you ground the coil.

if you have an ammeter, it should read about 4 amps when the points close.

Jay

Did you change anything with new? Like the coil and especially the condenser. Doubt it could be the points, but you could put the old ones back in if it still doesn't fire. Let us know how it turns out so that we are able to help others. By the way, did you put the coil back on the right way?

The best point cleaner is a point file. The points are harder than an ordinary file so it takes an extra hard file. Last I looked (a few years ago) NAPA stores carried a point file.

Carborundum sand paper often known as wet or dry should also clean them but will wear fast trying it.

A test with the tester while cranking with the test light on either end of the wire between the coil and the distributor is that as the engine cranks that light must blink on and off. If it stays on the points are not making contact either from corrosion or the point gap being set wrong. When the points open and close there will be way too much voltage on the top of the coil for your tester.

Changing the point gap also changes the ignition timing so set the gap first then the timing.

Gerald J.

Guys, I cleaned my points with a soft and tiny wire brush on the end of my Dremel and all is well. My electric light flashed when turning it over (with the tester on the lead) and then I put it together and there was indeed a spark in the wire.

I will go and test point gap per the manual but I am quite pleased with getting a spark.

This forum is the best tool I have.

Thanks everyone :)

Jeff

What Steve said. Also, do you still have voltage at the points when they are closed and the ignition is on? If not, then your problem is not with your points. If you do not have voltage when the points are open your problem could be the condenser, the coil, or a connection anywhere in the circuit.

I have used an old dollar bill to swipe thru points to clean them. Brake clean or contact cleaner may be necessary if they have a build up though.