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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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we pulled the tractor the firs time and nothing happedend so we stopped for the night we cleaned a few things and messsed with stuff and tried it again the next day it sortof started but would die when the truck stopped moveing. why is this. there is fuel
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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I know that all the contact points are clean and all the connections are tight once i cleaned everything I tried starting starting it. it turned over faster but still didnt start. me and my dad are waiting to try and pull the tractor until the roads dry up
Edited by hunter321 - 30 Mar 2021 at 11:24am |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 78107 |
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could be a weak starter, or a bad terminal at some point... if not that, you can rebuild the starter, or use a 12 volt battery on the tractor.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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if it does start when we pull start it does that mean the starter needs to be rebuilt?
Edited by hunter321 - 12 Mar 2021 at 11:49am |
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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Me and my dad are going to try to pull start the tractor to see if the starter is the reason it is dragging when it try's to start
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 78107 |
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hunter, i think you said you have a 6 volt battery. 6 volt systems naturally turn slower than 12 volt systems.. Also the 6 volt system normally has BIGGER diameter battery cables than the 12 volt... Half the voltage, twice the AMPS to get the same power out of the motor. You have to be real particular with the cables, clamps, ground, etc when using 6 volts..
As long as it is turning over fast enough to start, that is fine... With 6 volts it will not spin over like your dads truck.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Jim.ME
Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 937 |
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They may be new, but sometimes you do all the tests to have a base to work from. In this case the battery and cable checks should give good results. Having those good results on record will make the results of the voltage check when the starter is cranking the engine over (with the plugs in) more meaningful of the starter condition. Also a check is most generally worthwhile as even new parts have been found to be bad at times. You can also check the voltage at the starter while cranking with the plugs out. If the starter cranking makes the voltage drop way down from when it wasn't cranking, it is a possible sign of a bad starter. Good mechanics/technicians use diagnostic tests to try to figure out what is wrong, instead of just replacing parts willy-nilly.
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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The battery is brand new and the battery cables are brand new to
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Jim.ME
Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 937 |
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You need a multimeter with a DC voltmeter scale that will read 20 volts and down. Check to see what the voltage is when measured across the battery terminals when the switch is off. Then measure it again while the engine is cranking. Test at the starter solenoid to ground as well, both setting and cranking. The difference in the readings will give an idea of the battery, battery cable, and starter conditions. Make the checks and post the results. Turning a lot slower when the plugs are in, could be a sign of a bad cable or connection, weak battery, weak starter or some level of all those things.
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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We put atf in the spark plug hole and it turned over a lot faster but when we put the spark plugs back in it still turned over very slow
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4431 |
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Where do you live? If you are close to someone on this forum, they may be willing to give you a hand.
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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It turns over slow compared to our oliver tractor
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Jim.ME
Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 937 |
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Hunter,
I understand you don't have a compression tester, so try this. Make sure your tractor is in neutral. If you remove all 4 sparkplugs, then one at a time hold your finger tight over a spark plug hole and crank the engine over using the pull rod, with the ignition switch off. Each cylinder should blow your finger away. Squirting 2 or 3 pumps of oil, from a pump oil can, in each cylinder then trying the test again. The oil will help seal the rings and compression usually will increase a bit. If one doesn't your push finger away, that cylinder isn't making compression and that might be because of a stuck valve. If you have a cylinder like that, you have to remove the valve cover to check to see if the valves, not just the rocker arms, are all moving. A possibility on getting a compression tester to use is to ask at parts stores. Some, like O'Reilly and AutoZone have rental/loaner tool programs. The parts store you use might also if you ask. Then you could do a real compression test at little or no cost to use the tester. Is your engine turning over at a good speed when you crank it with the starter? Haow does it seem to be turning over compared to another tractor? |
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4431 |
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Have you tried turning it over with a hand crank? Does it turn over the same with the spark plugs in or out ?
I would be very surprised if stuck rings is your problem. Stuck valves is a possibility, but I doubt it would be the rings.
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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I also don't have a compression tester
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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I have not removed all of the spark plug wire since I got it because I didnt want to forget where they went. I dont think anyone has turned the distributer since it ran last. I do know that when the pionts open they make spark. my dad thinks the rings might be stuck
Edited by hunter321 - 24 Feb 2021 at 11:14am |
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4431 |
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Let's try the basic things first.
When you turn it over with a hand crank, does it turn very easy or is there resistance every half turn. If it turns quite hard, you should have enough compression for it to start. You say you have spark and fuel to the carburetor. That, to me, means there could mean: A. timing is way off. B. fuel is not going through the carburetor. Has anyone removed all the spark plug wires or turned the distributer since it last ran? The first thing I would check is to make sure the distributer turns consistently when turning it over. A few years ago (ok a lot of years ago), I had a roll pin shear off that held the gear on the bottom of the distributer. There was enough friction to make the distributer turn, but it hesitated occasionally. It took me hours to find it. If it turns good and there is any chance that the timing may have been changed, make sure it is timed right (or close to it). Rather than go through it step-by-step, here is a link that explains it better than I could. Once you make sure the timing is right, try it again. If it still doesn't start, remove the hose to the air filter and leave it off until you get it running. Running it a few minutes without an air cleaner won't hurt it. If it doesn't start, try giving it a shot of starting fluid. If it starts and stops, you will know your problem is in the carburetor. Good luck !
Edited by WF owner - 24 Feb 2021 at 7:53am |
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Jim.ME
Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 937 |
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I suggest you do the compression test, and record the results, so you know where compression stands. There might be a stuck valve, or other issue, from setting. Then while the plugs are out, line them up, wires connected, near the cylinders they go in and crank it over to see if the spark at the plugs match the puff of compression out of each hole.
Be methodical, completely check one thing and verify it is right or wrong, before moving to something else.
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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I did what you said I cleaned the gas line and put gas in the places where you said to it turned over a little faster but still won't start
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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the wires where still attached to the distributor cap when I started
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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I have not testeded it yet it has been to cold to work on it
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Jim.ME
Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 937 |
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#1 may not match where a book shows it in a picture. Are you sure the spark at #1 plug matches when #1 cylinder is on compression. I have pulled #1 plug and ground it near its hole (You may get a shock if you try to hold the plug). Hold a finger tightly over the plug hole and have someone crank the tractor over. You should see the spark at the plug the same time it pushes your finger off the hole, if the timing is close. You need the wires in the right firing order, going around the cap in the same direction as the rotor travels.
Have you checked compression yet?
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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I looked up the spark plug wire order
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Mdguy
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2020 Location: MD Points: 30 |
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Just am wondering from reading what you have done to your tractor you said that you replaced the spark plugs. Is your tractor in time still. As particular as you were about rewriting the lights I can’t imagine you pulled off all the plug wires and then tried to guess where they went. But I have seen this happen before and the plugs are firing out of order.
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4431 |
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Someday, you will look back at that and be happy that you documented everything.
Good luck !!!
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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Jim.ME
Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 937 |
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Hi Hunter,
Your Google documents is not an open to see document. Any one trying to look at it will have request access to see it.
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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this is what I have done so far
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hunter321
Silver Level Joined: 11 Jan 2021 Location: 52320 Points: 475 |
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I replaced the carb gasket and used a wire brush to clean the rest of it and rasembled it with the old parts
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Jim.ME
Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 937 |
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You need to have at least enough gas in it to cover the outlet in the tank. Just as it sets, do you have gas in the sediment bowl and, if you pull the drain plug out of the carb bowl does it have gas in it? If it has that much gas in it I think it would at least fire if all other things are right.
When you cleaned the carb, did you have a kit to put in it or did you just take it apart, blow it out, and reassemble with the old parts? Did you check the float setting? I won't say any or all of those things will keep it from starting but they may be a factor in the problems.
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