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Ron Eggen 
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Location: Lohman, Missour
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 Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 2:05pm |
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Talk with the Backers at Wise Bros , just a few miles west of you on I-70 . They can get any part you need and can help you do anything you need to this nice D-15.
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modirt
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
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Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 1:22pm |
On the oil line, I have found it locally, and it is indeed 1/8" OD stuff and is sold for oil pressure gauges. Not sure if the compression fittings they sell with it will work with my existing ends, but we will find out. Does anyone know if the small compression fittings inside the existing ends can come off and be used again, or ??????
Also, I checked the roadside FS D15 and confirmed the T fitting and governor control lever are supposed to work independent of each other. Mine are turning together as a unit and seem determined to continue doing so. Looks like I need pull the stack to get them apart, cleaned up and working as designed. So how does that stack get pulled? Does the T screw out the top or is the entire stack screwed into the base as a unit?
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modirt
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Location: Missouri
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Posted: 24 Jul 2018 at 1:16pm |
Dave: Thanks for confirming the info on the cultivator. That would have been my guess, but being a pull/lift was different than what was used on our old JD stuff.
But that being the case, once I confirm this thing is mine to have and to hold, and since there is no cultivator to be found, and since I don't want one, I suspect the cultivator stuff will be made available to someone who wants it. I've got an idea on the best way to ration this out, but will share that when the time comes.
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Dave (Mid-MI)
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Location: Hemlock, MI
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 8:53pm |
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The rod under your footrest pulled back when the three point was raised to raise the front cultivator gangs. The mechanism near the fender is a depth stop for the rear cultivator gang.
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AC720Man
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Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 8:31pm |
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The one I picked up is the only size they sell and it fit. I threw the packaging away. I think its 1/8” line. It’s used for oil pressure gauges.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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modirt
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 8:04pm |
OK, I now know what it is, and think I know how that happened (a self inflicted wound).
The oil tube T fitting, (the T fitting with nothing sticking out of it), is stuck to and rotating with the governor control rod lever mounted directly below it. The T fitting is swiveling back and forth with the control rod lever when the throttle lever is moved up and down. Even in the picture you can see the fitting and hole in it are not pointing to the oil tube.
So my guess is that needs to be freed up, so that the T fitting does not rotate with the control rod lever directly below it and remains pointing at the oil tube in a fixed position while everything else is moving. Otherwise, it bends back and forth at the fitting and will keep snapping off?
The self inflicted part came as I was manually working the throttle body back and forth once to free it up once the balky, sticky carb was off. Unknown to me, I was also working that line and it must have snapped.
That is a really small line. Is there a known Bosch number for a tubing kit to fit? The ones I saw online looked to be much larger OD/ID than this line is.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 5:51pm |
Yep dist oiler runs from that tee fitting with nothing sticking out. Needs to be connected, or it will squirt oil from the tee... 
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AC720Man
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 5:11pm |
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Go to Advance Auto store if you have one, they have a copper line kit made by Bosch for $10. Has all the parts you need to make a new line connection. You need that fixed before you turn it over. Looks like it goes into the connector at your finger tip. I can check dads after dinner.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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modirt
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 5:06pm |
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Hmmm......D15 service manual I ordered off ebay arrived today. That is an oil line that runs from governor to distributor. Manual only mentions what it is. Not what it does or what happens if it's not connected as this one is.
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modirt
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 3:47pm |
What is this tube and why isn't it connected? Can't tell if it is broken off or simply pulled out.
It runs from a fitting at the base of the distributor to a similar fitting at the throttle linkage at the governor.
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modirt
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 1:30pm |
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Considering all the help I've been given, I figured a video of the initial fire-up would be mandatory.
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 1:02pm |
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Also don’t be alarmed after it fires up that it smokes for a second ha ha just make sure the oil pressure is good after it fires up...!! I’m sure you already knew that just had to say and can we post videos I’d love to hear the initial fire !!
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Don(MO)
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Location: Bates City MO.
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 1:00pm |
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Like the guys said it will be OK to roll the engine over, I'd leave the plugs out when you roll it over to get as much of the ATF oil out/off the tops of the pistons before you try to start it.
Edited by Don(MO) - 23 Jul 2018 at 1:02pm
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Steve Zidlicky
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 12:35pm |
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since it has sat several years, just unplug coil wire so it will not start and spin it over some to get the oil everywhere then hook up coil wire and start it
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 12:01pm |
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Other people can chime in but you are oiling the valves and such as you pour the Oil on the top of the engine You’ll be fine just turning the engine over... That’s just my opinion it’s not gonna take much for the oil to be distributed everywhere and it’s not like the engine is going to be running so just turning it over will be fine.
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modirt
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 11:41am |
Asked this before, but it may have gotten lost in the flurry of stuff I posted over the weekend........
Now that I know the engine is freed up, I"m ready to put on new oil filter and dump in new oil so I can bump the starter to try turning her over.
But if my recollections is right, no oil will be flowing to the moving parts until the oil filter has been filled. I could pre-load the filter before putting it on, but putting it on upside down would mean most of that would dump out on the ground. Or just work fast?
But the question is.....is there a way to spin the oil pump to get all the parts lubed up so as to avoid a dry start? Especially for an engine that has sat for so long?
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 6:17pm |
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Modirt I live just east of Fulton and travel WW pretty often to go to Columbia to the doctor. So if you would like me to drop by I'd be glad to. Use a PM to keep it a little more private. Have fun with it. Leon
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 5:35pm |
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Is that actually a D 15 with a factory three point?
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 5:19pm |
 modirt wrote:
Those asking about the cultivator, not sure if this would have been a part of it or what it was used for. Attaches to the 3 point lift arms, and when the arms are lifted, it would rotate forward.
On the rod in question, don't have a better picture of it than the original.
The rod in question is held up in the front by a loop of baling wire. It runs back under through a loop under the left step, where it simply ends in space. The back end is threaded rod.
Don't know if the three point arm bracket thingy and this rod were supposed to be connected in any way or if both were for some other implements that are long gone.
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Not sure about tractors with 3 point, but on my SC D-15(II), the lift mechanism is mounted under the foot rest. The mechanism that is in the pictures appears to push forward as the arms lift. The cultivator mechanism (at least on mine), pulls to the rear, as the arms are lifted. Might be a farmer cobble-up, to adapt a JD mower, to an Allis tractor...
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JayD-17(NY)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 4:07pm |
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Yeah I remember seeing that type of "Primer" on some of the Allises from that period...thats why I asked if any yellow was peeking through elsewhere....that 0 that looks like a "D" is likely a funny stamped 0 then , and the tractor is probably a all original 1963.....
Edited by JayD-17(NY) - 22 Jul 2018 at 4:09pm
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AC720Man
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 3:59pm |
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They used a yellow primer from the factory. Primer may not be the correct term, but that was factory. Dad's had that on it when I sand blasted it to paint. I only removed what had flaked up. Primer never lifted.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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JayD-17(NY)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 3:37pm |
May be I am not seeing it right but the last # in serial # looks more like the letter "D" to me which would suggest it was a diesel at one time or the torque-tube/rear end came from a diesel?...may be not.......
Again, maybe I am looking too much into it; but I'm seeing what looks like yellow paint peeking through around the serial # suggesting maybe ,at least that half of the tractor, came from an industrial model? Could be just my eyes, could be primer......any signs of yellow elsewhere on the tractor? It does appear to have been repainted and re-decaled in the past......
Edited by JayD-17(NY) - 22 Jul 2018 at 3:41pm
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 2:20pm |
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Believe that serial number would put it as a 1963 If I’m reading it correctly it says 16,800 also if it’s the original carburetor a lot of times it will have the date on the brass tag.
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 2:09pm |
Peeked up the back end of the generator and can see what looks like mud dauber nests inside the housing.
I assume that is bad and firing it up in that condition could risk fatal damage? (My dad had that happen to him with an air compressor motor that sat unused for a year or so. It fried the motor).
If this needs to be addressed and I slip the generator off, how extensive does one have to get to fix this?
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 2:04pm |
This appears to be the serial number, but it makes no sense to me. Perhaps someone with better eyes than mine.....one who speaks the language, can interpret?
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:43am |
Don(MO) wrote:
Here's a nice show that will have lot's of great AC guys there ready to help and you will see rows of Allis tractors just asking to be looked at.Join us at the Osage River Antique Power Association (ORAPA) show at the Miller County Fairgrounds in Eldon, MO from August 24-26, 2018. The Missouri Allis Chalmers club's summer meeting will be at 2:00 PM on Saturday, August 25. ORAPA is featuring Allis-Chalmers tractors and equipment in 2018. It's a must see show for me.  Here's the link to the "Missouri Allis Chalmers club" below. Forgot the link to the show grounds web sight below.
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Thanks for the info on the show. Looks like the perfect chance for me to fondle paint, kick some tires and learn what I need to know.
Also, I noticed the Wise Bros. plow day? I live 15 minutes from there. I cruise threw his lot now and then. He has an old All Crop 66 I've been ogling, with a few unique things on it, like the duel tires and straw spreader. Does not have the belts and not sure about the condition of the cylinder bars. I have questions about the All Crops and that probably rates a new thread unto itself.
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ocharry
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:10am |
ok,,,,thank you sir..
i will have to give them a call and get the skinny on it
ocharry
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:01am |
Here's a nice show that will have lot's of great AC guys there ready to help and you will see rows of Allis tractors just asking to be looked at. Join us at the Osage River Antique Power Association (ORAPA) show at the Miller County Fairgrounds in Eldon, MO from August 24-26, 2018. The Missouri Allis Chalmers club's summer meeting will be at 2:00 PM on Saturday, August 25. ORAPA is featuring Allis-Chalmers tractors and equipment in 2018. It's a must see show for me. Here's the link to the "Missouri Allis Chalmers club" below. Forgot the link to the show grounds web sight below.
Edited by Don(MO) - 22 Jul 2018 at 11:06am
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 10:37am |
ocharry wrote:
hey Modirt,,would you or could you stop by the D15 and give it a good look over,,,start it up,, and talk to the owner for me ,,,,just for some particulars,,,,please,,,if its any good i may need that little girl
and you are around jeff city???? if you decide to take this mission let me know
this communication will self destruct in 30 sec.....lol
thanks much
ocharry |
You would probably do better to call the number on the ad to address your questions directly to the seller. After that, I'd be happy to go over to take additional photos and post them or send them to you.
If not obvious by now, I don't have much history with these old Allis tractors ( we had all John Deere), so I'm not the person you want to be your eyes and ears. I'm getting up to speed as fast as I can, but I'm still learning.
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ocharry
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 10:15am |
hey Modirt,,would you or could you stop by the D15 and give it a good look over,,,start it up,, and talk to the owner for me ,,,,just for some particulars,,,,please,,,if its any good i may need that little girl
and you are around jeff city???? if you decide to take this mission let me know
this communication will self destruct in 30 sec.....lol
thanks much
ocharry
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