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AC720Man 
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 4671
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 Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 4:20pm |
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The D-15 is a great little work horse, surprising what 46 hp will do. Dads is a 1968 series II and it has been very reliable. Pulls a 3 bottom Oliver plow easy.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 4671
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 4:16pm |
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Oil fil cap just lifts off. A slight twist and lift should do it. Does it have the breather cap that comes thru the right side hood? If so, a twist and lift should remove it also.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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tadams(OH)
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
Points: 9690
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 3:12pm |
I would take penatrating oil and spray the throttle and choke and sediment bowl good while you work on the other things. I think the oil fill cap just pulls off.
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modirt
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
Points: 6694
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 2:21pm |
So this thing is currently in a barn across the road from me, so I can check on it, play with it there.
Gas tank is empty. Sediment bowl is half full of what looks like varnish, and is stuck and won't come off.
Eased off the choke linkage a bit, and was able to work choke a little, so while it remains very stiff, it's not entire frozen either.
How does the breather cap come off? Right side engine cover can't get past it without it coming off, and this one seems to be stuck in place. Lifts off? Screws off? Hate to apply force if you don't know where or how.
Can't tell if there is any coolant. May dump some antifreeze in and see if it spills out.
Also, cannot see much evidence of oil or other fluids on the ground below. Oil on the dipstick is full, but is black and thick. It will rate a change before trying to turn the engine over.
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Allis-Chalmers Damon
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Joined: 13 Apr 2015
Location: Deer Park, WA
Points: 103
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 1:42pm |
www.tonystractors.com is a great place to shop for AC parts.
If you are looking for someone closer, here is a link to other dealers:
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1955 WD45 Diesel, 1959 D14, All-Crop Drill, 2015 John Deere 5075e, New Holland 279 Haybine, New Holland 575 square baler, New Holland 1032 Stackliner, 10ft Industrias Disc, 6ft Titan grapple
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Jim Hancock
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: EL Reno, Ok.
Points: 1109
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 1:32pm |
Hi! Air up the tires, put the tractor in 4th gear Hi(forward) and rock/bump it a little and watch the fan blades. I think that I'd let the ATF soak a couple days before bumping it. You can add acetone to the ATF 50/50 mix and get somewhat faster(?) results from the reports on this forum . Being shedded all this time may be in your favor. Vendors on this site can help you with the electrical items,
B&B Custom Circuits is Steve in NJ,
OKTractor.com is Jim Danforth
Edited by Jim Hancock - 18 Jul 2018 at 1:40pm
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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modirt
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
Points: 6694
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 1:24pm |
Thanks for the quick responses and help! I've only been driving tractors for close to 55 years, but that is only driving and maintaining them. I've never tried to bring one like this back from the dead, although my first car was an unused John Deere B. But it had only been parked for a year or so. It only needed clean fuel to start.
Yes, my first instinct was to make no attempt at turning the engine over.....at least by using any force, until I knew if engine was locked up / frozen. Figured I should pull the plugs and squirt something in the cylinders......wasn't sure what. I might have used a bit of diesel fuel. But ATF will work and I can see about pulling the valve cover too.
Is there a way to turn the engine over by hand or is it going to require more force, like the starter? Am resisting temptation to get it rolling and pop the clutch. That would be an easy to to do a lot of damage in a hurry. The PTO is shifting in and out. No belt drive wheel or flywheel I can see.
I don't think it has any fuel in it.....may have all leaked out. Will check coolant, but I don't think there is any there either. Looked to me like a nest of some type behind the radiator where the fan blades might hit it. Will dig that out before touching anything.
At the least, muffler needs to come off to be cleaned out. Has a mud daubber nest sticking out the top as is.
The other big issue will the the carb, as choke and throttle are currently frozen up. Not much is going to happen with the engine until those are freed up and working again.
PTO and tranny are freed up and shifting in and out, and high / low lever seems to also be working.
Lastly, will and AGCO dealer have parts or where is the best place to get parts like the carb kit, plugs, wires, points, etc?
I'm in Central MO, near Fulton.
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Jim Hancock
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: EL Reno, Ok.
Points: 1109
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 1:12pm |
Check the throttle linkages and get them lubed up loosened up and working first before starting on the engine stuff. No sense in getting the engine going until you can control it's speed. Pull the drain plug on the bottom of the carb and get your fresh gas flowing out of it there. It'll drain any old gas and/or water out and hopefully flush any tiny bits of rust out. If it doesn't flow, the needle valve and/or float may be stuck. Very gently tap the carb to see if that will unstick them and get the gas flowing through it. If not, rebuild the carb.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 18 Jul 2018 at 1:23pm
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Jim Hancock
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: EL Reno, Ok.
Points: 1109
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 12:46pm |
Hi Modirt! Welcome to the forum! First, pull and check the plugs for any carbon buildup and clean. Squirt a cup or so of ATF fluid into the cylinders to avoid a dry start up. You can change the oil either before or after you get it started - up to you. Just need to find out if it will fire yet, or not, after these preliminaries. Was the oil clean when you checked the dipstick? If not, I'd change it and the filter. Carefully unscrew the oil pan drain plug just enough to see if you get water run out to verify that there's not any water in the bottom. If oil, screw back in, unless it needs changed due to all of the dirt settled in the bottom. Check the fluid levels of the tranny and hydraulics - add as needed - after you get the engine running. Drain the gas tank and put in new and check for flow at the carb. There may be a screen disc above the sediment bowl on the bottom of the gas tank that will probably need cleaned up. You will probably have to pull the carb for a new kit in it if it doesn't get gas up to the cylinders. I'd add a can of Seafoam or Chemtool B12 to the gas to get into the carb to start cleaning it out. You "might" not have to "kit" it yet. Pull distributor cap and check for and/or clean corrosion off the points. Replace with new points and condensor if no fire. You may or may not need a new coil, distributor cap, rotor bug, plug wires just from age and any deterioration from sitting so long. Check the air filter to see how "plugged" it is. Replace if needed. While hood is off, pull the valve cover and pour some ATF over the valves to let it run down the stems to avoid a dry start up. Check fluid level in the radiator. Add as needed to just cover the cores, which one finger length and just touch the coolant is about right. Otherwise, if these are like other tractors of this era, fill to the neck and it'll overflow when the engine heats up. Install battery and bump the starter while watching for valve movement, or not. This will get you enough info to see where to go, if it sputters and/or starts, or not.
Where 'bouts in Mo. are you located? My hometown is Carthage in the sw corner just east of Joplin.
Again, welcome aboard!
Edited by Jim Hancock - 18 Jul 2018 at 1:03pm
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Allis-Chalmers Damon
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Joined: 13 Apr 2015
Location: Deer Park, WA
Points: 103
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 12:34pm |
Wow congrats on that find! The tractor looks in pretty good shape overall. The first few things I would do would be drain all gas and fuel lines, get a carb rebuild kit, fresh oil change, new plugs and wires (maybe rotor and cap as well), and possibly a new muffler as that one looks really rusted. The tires might be in ok shape, I am running my D14 with a few cracks here and there and have not had any problems.
I am sure I am missing a few things but if it ran when parked, I don't see any reason why it won't turn over and fire up.
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1955 WD45 Diesel, 1959 D14, All-Crop Drill, 2015 John Deere 5075e, New Holland 279 Haybine, New Holland 575 square baler, New Holland 1032 Stackliner, 10ft Industrias Disc, 6ft Titan grapple
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modirt
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
Points: 6694
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 12:10pm |
New member and first time poster.
Have potentially been presented with a FREE D15.
History is tractor was running when it was parked, and hasn't moved since. Exact time it has sat is unknown, but best guess is 15 years +/-.
Had new tires on it when parked, but fronts are flat and cracked nearly through. Backs are low, and cracked, but may still be usable.
Initial check, throttle and choke are locked up tight and won't move. Have not budged the tractor to see if engine will turn over. I checked the oil and it only had oil on the dipstick.....no water so that was promising.
I am not looking to go into a big restoration project, but would love to have the tractor as a user if I can get it running.
So my question is, what are the steps to get this going?
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