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1958 D17 NFE (lots of pictures)

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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:43pm
Solder is very soft and it doesn't stick to steel nearly as well as one would imagine. You can try silver solder, but you'd have to remove the existing solder first. It would be easier to just line the tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:22pm
Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:

Chris i used JB weld for gas tanks on one to fix that leak you are talking about. It has been about 6 years and it still doesn't leak there I did get the tank lined as well.
Yes unscrew the hex nut and then put the vent assembly back together.   Fill just over the gear.


Dan,
 You are on the ball as usual! Now where is my big Cresent to remove that vent tube?
I might consider the JB weld on that tank leak too. Dang Solder really should work for that.
Remember if it was easy everyone would be working on tractors.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:15pm
Chris i used JB weld for gas tanks on one to fix that leak you are talking about. It has been about 6 years and it still doesn't leak there I did get the tank lined as well.
Yes unscrew the hex nut and then put the vent assembly back together.   Fill just over the gear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 2:12pm
Folks,
Ok I took the grill off the D17 and wanted to check the power steering fluid level. taking the cap off I found it packed with steel wool type material. Like a vent. So do I have to unscrew the vent tube from the casting to check the level?

Not my day! I tightened one gas tank bolt and it started leaking in the other corner of the bracket near the tank:(. Obviously that soldering is not robust enough to solve that leak. Have to take another run at this issue.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 11:38am
Chris ATF or hydraulic oil in the power steering.   Hydraulic oil in the hydraulic pump and power direct clutch as well. I use gear oil in the transmission and finals.   Some people use hydraulic oil in the transmission.   There was a service update at one point to use hydraulic oil but I feel the big gears are better served by gear oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 11:27am
Folks,
 I took a few lessons on soldering from a friend. Having some old soldered maple syrup pans I needed to learn this skill to make my own repairs. So at flea markets/ garage sales, I would pick up old copper soldering irons to add to the collection.
Currently the solder is still looking good on this tank repair, no seepage of gas from the bracket area. Ready to begin re-assembly.

Ted I was really surprised, and tickled, to get the power steering option on this tractor.  Obviously I didn't know much about this option as I reviewed the tractor prior to the sale. Dumb question? Does it use std automotive power steering fluid?? I need to remove the front grill and check the level.

Just remembered another question. There was another post from a guy that is almost done with a awesome looking D17 Series I and the hood decals were different than mine. Are these the correct ones on mine with the dot at each end?

Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 11:16am
Originally posted by HD6GTOM HD6GTOM wrote:

Chris I did not read all of the posts, if this was already addressed, forgive me. I spent 22 years in the farm tire business, the reason the left rear tire looks like that-- The tractor was ran up and down a paved road, left rear was on paving and the right rear was on the shoulder. It is common with that brand of tire, It should give you years of service.   


Tom,
 Thanks!
These rear tires have a few ratty areas but for the most part they are way better than some I have seen. With pretty good tread depth left on them. I know armstrong may not be a top brand, but I cant be to choosy.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 9:16am
Chris I did not read all of the posts, if this was already addressed, forgive me. I spent 22 years in the farm tire business, the reason the left rear tire looks like that-- The tractor was ran up and down a paved road, left rear was on paving and the right rear was on the shoulder. It is common with that brand of tire, It should give you years of service.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 7:14am
Originally posted by allischalmerguy allischalmerguy wrote:

Did you use a torch to solder with? Thanks, Mike

He said.....

Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Got out the old soldering irons and started on the solder around the bracket. Regards,  Chris


As usual Chris, it looks great!!  Sure wish I had P/S on mine!  Steers really HARD!  I got mine last fall and haven't been able to work on it yet.  I'm hoping it's just a grease thing.  We'll see.  The batter box and all of the metal that keeps the battery on mine is junk!  I'm gonna have to fabricate one as I don't trust the one in there.  The battery looks like it might fall and I don't want any sparks around that gas tank!
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19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 7:12am
That looks great to me. Hope it seals it up. Soldering good is a skill I need to learn. Probably need to buy a good soldering iron to start with...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 11:21pm
Looks good Chris. I hope it works.
Did you use a torch to solder with?
Thanks,
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Play Farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 10:52pm
Thats always a good sign. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 9:06pm
Dan,
 Thanks for the recommendation on the flux!
 I would have liked to braze this joint, but with the solder already there I might never get the joint clean for braze?
Just went out and checked. Its been a hour and with 2 gallons in the tank the area around the bracket is dry!!!!
Regards,
 Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:38pm
Chris next time you have trouble with solder try c - flux it works great. I have never seen any flux that works better.
http://www.rectorseal.com/c-flux/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:30pm
Folks,
Not much action today, but did get a chance to work on the gas tank this evening.
Put a air hose in the filler port with tank upside down. Let that purge for 15 minutes or more.
 Got out the old soldering irons and started on the solder around the bracket. What I found worked the best was the liquid flux Stay-Sil, I believe is the brand name. Was using paste and the solder would not hardly flow. The liquid flux brought out the impurities in the joint. It may not be pretty but we are gas testing it right now. If there are no leaks this is how its going back on the 17.





Hope things are good in Orange land.
Regards,
 Chris


D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 10:06am
Yes the Green one is going to be a orchard! My guess is a D17 orchard would be rare And tall too!
Better see if you can find those old orchard panels for your tractor. Wouldn't that be something if they were still around!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 9:56am
You are making the green one into an orchard tractor right not the d17? From what I was told orchard d17 tractors where not very popular because they where just too tall. Mine is a orchard trade in that the dealer converted back into a normal d17 still had the orchard exaust and cover over the factory exaust when I was a kid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 9:50am
Dr. Jim,
Thanks for the additional remedies, I may need them!
The Allis project is on hold today. Raining here and having fun with the Great grandson. Going to help a friend work on a off color Green tractor this pm. Will assist in installing the sheet metal to make this into a orchard tractor.
Regards,
 Chris



D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WD45Diesel57 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 7:42am
that is one nice unmodified D17, looks like It was well taken care of. its in good hands now, looking forward to see your detailed photos and progress
1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Hancock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:52pm
You're welcome Chris! Wink
These things and a kidney stone flush & a gall stone flush is what I learned from my homeopothist chiropractor that I've been with for 28 yrs. 
You can also flush your body with a gallon of orange , cranberry, and apple juice, besides grape and grapefruit to get things moving, which is what you want. 
BTW, if one has a headache that aspirin won't touch, your can drink the white grapefruit juice to relieve it as it's a toxic headache from fumes and such. 
Also, if one has really been doing strenuous work and ends up with sore muscles and body at night, drink Bragg's ACV straight or mix it with water, apple or grape juice as it's a natural pain reliever. 
Watching you work on your D17, I'm wondering if you're moving muscles that haven't been moved for awhile which would lead to them being sore from use. Smile


Edited by Jim Hancock - 30 Mar 2016 at 10:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clintr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:26pm
There was an update on the fuel tanks on the D17's where they used a clamp and a spring setup to hold the tanks down due to them cracking down where yours did.  The later tractors had that from the factory as far as I know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:01pm
Have to say the train is really cool. Looks like you got well equated with the 17 today. Those top center prices go back in pretty easy the front sets in and holds it. I set the front in place used a punch to line up one bolt on the back verified the front and started bolting it down done that a few times before I put the punch in one back hole to line it all up it wasn't alot of fun. I am just impressed you got the screw that holds the tank strap out. Mine where soft and the heads just twisted wasn't a pretty site. I think one is still stuck and the other was wrecked on mine and try to find those fine thread with a taper cut in the end couldn't ofcouse I don't know what they are called which makes it much harder to fine them but man do they align alot nicer then a modern bolt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Play Farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:42pm
I like the tractor train. I can see me doing something like that if I ever have grandkids...or maybe just for fun.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:42pm
I would not repaint that tractor, looks like a good original.  Once you have the tank patched, you might also want to consider getting the inside lined so you can prevent any new leaks from forming.
Before you put the tank back on, look at all of the wiring in that area VERY closely.  Nice love making nests in that area under the gas tank and will chew on the wires.  I've had a few tractors where this has happened.  In the winter time, I usually remove one side shield to prevent mice from making a nest there (it is no longer a hiding place for them).
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:29pm
Ok folks, I see some of you found me after the name change to the thread!
This tractor kept me busy most of the day, so I am catching up.
First we need to change Jim H's name on here to Dr. Jim? Wow just reading his remedies I feel much better! Thanks Jim.

Next on to the paint issue!:) The goal right now is to fix the leaky tank!
 I do have parts all over! It's not as easy to take the tank off a D series as the old WD's. Hoods off, Center hood support off which holds the wiring and the exhaust support, both side panels off. Tank band off, gas line disconnected. Now you can pull the tank!





This is a positive ground system.


Center bar front support bolts these should be fun to get back in place.


Drain the tank, a slow process but I have all day. I am retired or tired not sure which, sometimes both!:)


Wires for lights.


Hood center bar out of the way.


Exhaust support bracket is bolted to the center bar. All bolts came out OK.
After looking closer I see some layers of orange paint on the engine block. May have had engine work done at one time??


Tank is almost free.


Right side panel off. Mr yuck in there. Had a brand new voltage regulator but they sure did not have the time to clean years of oily dirt out. This has to get a little cleaning before going back together!




Under side of tank was damp not dripping.


No obvious leak points.


Ok tank is off and inverted to take a look. Yep someone had a leak before and the bracket is soldered to the tank. Pretty nice looking work but all the vibrations over the years still makes this area suspect number 1.




Scratched the layers of crud off and found only good steel. Also inside of tank looked brand new. But I could see the four spot weld marks from the factory where the bracket was attached.


Ok this may not be the way to do it. But is how I tested it.
Gas cap on tight inverted tank and gently blew air into the tank through the sediment bowl outlet. Closed the sediment bowl petcock trapping some air in the tank.  Brushed soapy water around the bracket and found at least two spots where bubbles were being formed.






Next steps will  be to decide method of the repair. I had real good luck brazing a WD tank in the same area. But the old solder may be hard to get rid of? Have filled and rinsed tank with water once and will have air hose full on inside the tank when any heat is applied.

Scraped and cleaned the area between the panels under the tank.


Its a little better than what is was under the tank area.  A half gallon of crud removed.


So I will keep the new paint in mind, but I do know what it takes to make them look good, and you have to touch every piece many times! This tractor is going to stay in her work clothes for a while. She has some plowing to do!

Hey Steve,
 That abandoned Allis "B" is still setting there in a field. I need to at least get some pictures! What a project that would be! Not a labor of love just a labor!

Just to let you know I had to get some of the other off color toys out too! 

New hand grips for the David Bradley. But it started smoking when I was putting it away? Need to look into that. This was abandoned for 40 years. I drug it home last fall.


Massive Briggs Model N engine. Rebuilt the carb was the major work done to it.


Removed snow blade from the Ford. Chains will stay on for a while. very wet around here.


This one is for Play Farmer.
Had to bring these toys home from storage today too. Drove the 147R with implements on carts about 3/4 mile. Should have had ear protection! It is obnoxiously loud!!
 Like Play Farmers story. This Cub Cadet should never have been brought home. It was in very bad shape. And the implements I gathered up were not much better. I have hundreds of hours in this play train. Sure was nice when she fired up today only needing a battery charge.:) Priceless!





Barrel cart works good for the grand kids. Rhett should like it this summer too.

 
Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 30 Mar 2016 at 8:37pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Everyone needs a D serries or two.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 7:02pm
Chris,
I thought you were going to buy that little B?  Now I have tractor envy!  Nice tractor my friend.  Sounds like you're tackling it straightaway.  I look forward to seeing her in action.  Now I need a D-series...
Best,
Steve
1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 4:02pm
Play farmer don't tell Chris he needs to do the full paint until after he tells us he has all then parts off and spread all over the shop... we can tell him to just paint the tank because you see that from the drivers seat. Then once he gets ready to test fit that he will realize with the new front tires and freshly painted tank he has two really nice looking parts.... we need to stretch it out then I won't feel so bad about the fact that I haven't fixed mine up yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Play Farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

You guys are way to high tech for me!:)
I am starting to remove items to get the gas tank off.
Is there a way to change the title of a thread? Or maybe I should start a new one about this tractor?
Anyway this gas tank needs fixed or replaced. Cant have that. I see there is a used one on ebay for $100 too. The underside looks very good.
So I am going to remove the hood panels including the center bar. the hood band has been loosened and I guess one or both the side panels will need to come off to get to the bottom tank bolts. Will try to get some pictures as we progress on the tank.
Fighting head and chest cold today! Had to come in a warm up.
Regards,
 Chris 

Seeing as you'll be doing this much you might just as well keep going and do the full re-paint. 

Am I helpful? LOL

True story; 

My real job is on the road industrial sales. About 20 years ago I needed a new car for work so I sold my plow truck, thinking I'd find a cheap replacement. Winter was coming fast and I hadn't had any luck finding a truck. I was getting desperate and finally took the next thing I could find, a totally rusted out real piece of work '77 F150. It had a 460 literally just setting in the engine bay, the gas tank was an old beer keg setting in the bed of the truck with a rubber hose running under the cab up to the carb. It started life with power steering, there was no PS pump on the truck. 

A buddy of mine gave me a ride to pick it up. I got it home in one piece and kind of wondered what I had gotten myself into when my buddy says..."hey, I have that Kansas cab - I'd donate it if you want to fix that thing up". 

Well...that got the wheels turning and the following Spring it came into the garage and got a full frame-off show quality restoration - all because someone was "helpful". 

My point - I'm not suggesting you to do something I haven't already done myself. Wink


Edited by Play Farmer - 30 Mar 2016 at 2:54pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Hancock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 12:29pm
One more thing, Chris, to help you out. 
There is a junction point of the nerve network under each armpit about an inch or two down to about the 1st or 2nd rib.
There are nerves that go to the lungs there. 
Massage these points like you're giving yourself a good scratch for about 20-30 seconds through the day as you think of it. 
This will stimulate the lungs and loosen the phlegm for you to cough out. 
Whichever side is the most "sore", that's the the lung that's plugged the most. 
Do this until there's nothing being coughed out. 
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