D-17 money pit,specifically question on the head/

yeesh 650 !!??? I've bought whole RUNNING tractors for less....I know I'm 'out of the loop' as to prices but just what do they do for that pile of coins?

Jay

They didn't give me the breakdown but they wanted to plain (plane?) it, fix the exhaust where it meets the manifold, replace the valves and springs, and fix the valve guides which this guy acted like was a big deal but if I'm not mistaken they just press out. I think what I am going to end up doing if this other head I have doesn't work out is to have him plain the head and send it back to me. I found a valve set from one of the suppliers on here for less than $200 and the manifold part doesn't bother me because my dad had these nifty little tubes machined out for my grandpa's old d-17 that press right into the manifold and the head, voila no more exhaust leak. 

Valve guides often have to reamed to clear the valve stems after being pressed in. And often don't have a stop shoulder so the insertion has to be measured and adjusted carefully.

Gerald J.

The 45 head will work, but will have to drill the 3 3/8 holes out for 7/16 bolts.

I dont care what you do anymore in any hobby or just livin', its expensive! Good to shop around for the work! These are only money pits if your not going to do something with it. Work or show? If its just going to set there and not be enjoyed or worked then You might want to find a different tractor? I am sure you can buy very good refurbished tractors much cheaper than you can build them your self!
I have a Ford Jubilee that I paid good money for. The guy that reworked it had receipts for $7000. I paid a little more than half that for it, but it has been a good fun tractor to own and work.
Some of the Allis' that I drug home were family tractors and project tractors that I have way more money in than they are worth.
I would do it all again! :)

Good luck with your tractor!
Regards,
 Chris

I have a D17 series 1 head for sale 150 + ride. head is complete.

Some of the E heads have different valves than a D17. 30 verses 45 degree angle on the valve. 

Got the head back and installed the new guides with a brass drift and put the new valves in. Hopefully get it fired up this week.

In my excitement to get the head together I did forget to lap the valves. The machine shop said that the seats look fine so since I still had the manifold off I filled the intake and exhaust ports with wd-40 and let them sit for 24 hours. They didn't leak down so I assume the seal will be good enough for the girls I go with. Thanks for the heads up about that though.

I'm with Dave on this, hope you don't burn a valve or seat early. I will not put new valves in without a good lapping. I have found new valves to be off right out of the box and then getting a old seat and valve to mach might be tough and lapping will tell the story. I hope it's going to be OK. 

Since it is already apart, I would go back and do it right.  I hate having to take everything apart down the road (especially after it caused more damage).  Crossing fingers on engine work is not the right attitude for me.  Just my 2 cents.

WD40 is designed to displace water. It is not a penetrant.  You equipment, your money.  But you do need to know that WD40 is not designed to seep through the smallest of crack, and is a LOT thicker than air.