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Mike56073 
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Joined: 14 Nov 2010
Location: New Ulm
Points: 154
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 Topic: WD light and gennie issues
Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 4:50pm |
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Thought I would pick some peoples brains on here.....I just got done rewiring a WD, it now has an electronic cutout. It will not show a charge on the guage however, and it is wired exactly as the manual specifies.
The other problem is with the lights, they will not come on with the switch. It does have a new light switch installed, but it will not power them up.
I should also note that the light switch is the 3 position switch, do I still need this with an electronic cutout??
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 6:43pm |
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Did everything work properly before you put the E cutout in?
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EPALLIS
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
Points: 1154
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Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 8:30pm |
Mike: When I rewired my WD I did notice that I only get a charge on the gauge once I put the throttle up a bit. It's almost like it needs a little RPM to "tickle" the charge. I didn't change anything else. Just the wiring harness. Try putting the throttle lever down about half way and see if you tickle it and then get the charge. As for your lights, I assume you left them 6 volt? I noticed that when I removed the wing nuts and light and then reinstalled, I wasn't getting a good ground. So I took them back out, found the 'old' spot where the wing nuts use to touch and then all was good. Just a couple thoughts. I'll tell ya, I sure liked that new harness. Although it took an 8 hour day for me to do it, It's been well worth it. Hope everything works out for you. Going orange is going great!!
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Mike56073
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Joined: 14 Nov 2010
Location: New Ulm
Points: 154
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Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 10:07pm |
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When the tractor was brought to me, it was a 12 volt alternator. That got replaced with a 12 volt generator(tested good). All new wiring harness with the electronic cutout. The light switch is still the 3 position switch, but the smaller newer style. The lights do work great if i put power to them, just not through the switch. On the light switch, I have power coming from the ammeter to one terminal , but no power coming out when the switch is pulled back to the headlamp position. I was just wondering if I even need the 3 position swich with the electronic cutout, or if I could go with a 2 position light switch.
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Mike56073
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Location: New Ulm
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Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 10:08pm |
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Oh, and I did try running the RPM's up too, no luck
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
Points: 5636
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Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 11:45pm |
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The three position light switch has two independent circuits. One for the lights, and one for the generator field. You have to hook up just the lights with the right terminals for it t to work.
Gerald J.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11994
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Posted: 23 Jul 2012 at 6:14am |
As Gerald mentioned the 3 position switch is a multi-function switch. Having an electronic cut-out has nothing to do with charging. All the cutout does is take the Battery out of the loop so the Gennie doesn't draw power from the Battery when it sits. The OEM three position switch doesn't like the fast moving current of 12V, so eventually, the selector disc inside the switch will warp and make it difficult to pull the knob out. If you have one of those aftermarket switches installed, I'm told by a lot of our customer's that that particular switch does not fit well in some Ammeter panels so make sure it doesn't short out to the inside of the box. If you're running a 12V Gennie, I'd install a VR to control the charging chores and upgrade to a HD fused 12V Headlight switch. If you still have the 20/20 sweep ammeter, bump it up to a "D" series 60/60 sweep ammeter with the 12V upgrade or install a Voltmeter. This way the system is safe, and you don't risk the chance of burning up your new harness should a problem occur on board. I would also install an Ignition switch to control power. If you have any questions or need any help, drop me an e-mail or call. Be happy to help you out with anything and get you going in the right direction.... (973) 632-5596
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Pilot Grove, MO
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Posted: 23 Jul 2012 at 10:16am |
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Steve - I have a 60/60 ammeter on my WD45 that's a 12V generator conversion. I'm going back to the 20/20 ammeter as I can hardly tell if it's charging on a 60/60 ammeter. 30/30 from the D series I can see. Also, I don't think Allis went to the 60/60 ammeters until the 100 series tractors with alternators. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 23 Jul 2012 at 10:32am |
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My D17D has a 30/30 ammeter on it. +1 on installing a regulator and not using the high/low switch.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Pilot Grove, MO
Points: 3115
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Posted: 23 Jul 2012 at 10:33am |
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Yes I went to a 12V D17 regulator for my WD45 and mounted it to the front of the battery box. Works GREAT. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Mike56073
Silver Level
Joined: 14 Nov 2010
Location: New Ulm
Points: 154
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Posted: 24 Jul 2012 at 10:36am |
I finally figured out my problems. The charging issue was my fault, I wasn't aware that the generator has to be polarized with electronic cutouts too. Polarized it, and it works perfectly! The headlight issue was a good one. According to my fluke meter the switch assembly work perfectly, but as soon as an electrical load was put through it, I would have nothing. It ended up being a bad fuse on a brand new switch! It wasn't blown, and the meter showed continuity across the fuse, but it wouldn't carry even a test lamp load. Popped a new fuse in, and we have lights!! Finished all of the reassembly last night, and I've got a day or so of touch up to do. Should have pictures in a few days on here..............
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