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D17 Starter Question |
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5B Ranch ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Texas Points: 51 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 28 Mar 2012 at 3:26pm |
All, I have a 1958 D17. She won't turn over. Turn the key, one click, and that's it. Put in a new battery, same thing. What do you think: starter? starter solenoid?
Also, anyone have a trick to getting a lawnmower tire off the rim?
Many thanks!
Chad at the 5B Ranch
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Sometimes the starter can jam a tooth of its pinion on top of a flywheel tooth and jam it up. See if you can turn the engine by hand. You can do a voltage drop test to find out why the starter doesn't work. What you do is put a volt meter in parallel to each part of the circuit. Go from the hot side of the battery to the solenoid and try to start. Do this on all parts of the circuit. You should not get more than about .5v total of all the drops until you get to the starter. You will know when you find the problem, the meter will read most of what your battery voltage is.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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That click instead of RRRRR often comes from a bad connection, usually a corroded battery post and connector. They need cleaning (more often on 6 volts than 12 volts). Also all the other connections in the starter circuit. Then there can be brushes worn so they don't have pressure on the commutator, or a solenoid worn so it doesn't make good contact. AC starters have been known to stick too. Bad bearings in the starter can let the armature drag on the pole pieces and with the magnetic field from the pole pieces the friction can be HIGH stopping the starter from turning.
Gerald J. |
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