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testing generator

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Bill_MN View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 10:24pm
Battery keeps going dead on my WD, it might be the battery but I would also like to check the condition of the generator system (Two-brush with VR). Where do I put the multimeter points to see if the generator is charging the battery, And how many volts should I have? Is there another method for testing the genny? 

Edited by Bill_MN - 24 Aug 2011 at 10:25pm
1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Tedin NE-OH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tedin NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 10:31pm
Watch the amp meter.
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Orange Blood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 10:33pm
Well the correct way to verify the generator is to use a current meter, just like the oem one on the tractor, or at the very least a current probe.  What I would do with a volt meter is measure the battery voltage with the engine running vs. stopped.  If the voltage is higher running then stopped, the genny is at least trying to work, the question is how much higher.  Each cell of a lead acid battery typically runs about 2.2 volts, so a fully charged 6 volt will run around 6-1/2 volts, and a 12 volt batt will run around 13.6 volts.  Charging voltage should be just above the respective voltage to charge the battery, anthing less than the above voltage will discharge the battery.  I hope this is enough to get you started.
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stray View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 3:55am

Using a volt meter, first make sure the battery is charged good, and then let the static charge dissipate for a few minutes. Then check the battery voltage with the engine off. Start the tractor and let it run 3 to 5 minutes at about ½ throttle, then check the battery voltage with the tractor running. Compare to the 2 voltage readings if the non running is 12 volt then the running should be 1.5 to 2.5 volts higher, on a 6 volt the reading will be .75 to 1 volts higher. A generator take longer to get the voltage up in the battery than an alternator you don’t need to let it run for a few minutes when using an alternator. Also the belt tension is more critical on a generator then on an alternator. If the readings aren’t right be sure to take both the generator and regulator to the rebuilders or part store to have check.

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Dusty MI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dusty MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 7:27am
An old simple way. Take the belt off of it. Take the cover off the cutoff and hold the contacts closed, the generator should run like an electric motor but much slower.

Dusty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonDittmar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 8:35am
Originally posted by Dusty MI Dusty MI wrote:

An old simple way. Take the belt off of it. Take the cover off the cutoff and hold the contacts closed, the generator should run like an electric motor but much slower.

Dusty
Thats the first test I do when working on a GEN. Put power to the A terminal and ground the F terminal and it should run like a motor. I do this with the GEN off and pinched in the vise and a battery or battery charger as my power source. To test with it on the tractor, once I have verified the cutout is closed I jump the F terminal to ground, should make it go to full charge
All these test are assuming the GEN is an A type
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 10:26am
Here is a site on generators and regulators and tests and repair .. all the info you may need . Is for Chev but covers all Delco / AC systems .
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill_MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 10:09pm
Thanks, I should have enough info to get started. As I said before this is a two brush generator with a voltage regulator (VR), not a cutout system.
1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonDittmar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 6:02am
Originally posted by Bill_MN Bill_MN wrote:

Thanks, I should have enough info to get started. As I said before this is a two brush generator with a voltage regulator (VR), not a cutout system.
All gens have a cutout otherwise when BAT voltage is more than GEN output, the battery would discharge through the GEN(try to run gen like a motor) The cut-out is a seperate realy inside your VR. Pull the cover off the the VR and you will see 2 sets of points. The one with the heavy windings is the cut-out.
An alternator doesnt need a cutout beacuse it rectifies to DC output by sending the current through a diode trio and heat sink(known as the rectifier). I diode is an electrical check valve which will let current out of the alt, but wont allow it in.
Take an alt apart and change the diode trio and you can make it charge + ground systems.
Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"

1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 7:21am
Boy these guys are gettin' good! Makes an electrical guy like myself wanna cry....  LOL!
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2011 at 6:54pm
Yup, steve they even like the ammeter...

In theory the fully charged starting battery floats at 2.35 volts per cell, so 7.1 volts on a 6 volt and 14.2 on a 12 volt. Generator regulators don't hold the voltage that precisely though. Voltage rising at the battery terminals is best tested by digging the meter prods into the bettery posts themselves because an open connection can show adequate voltage for charging but if the battery posts are corroded (and they need cleaning nearly twice a year on a 6 volt to keep it starting and charging) the battery won't be seeing that charging voltage or taking a charge.

Gerald J.
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