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The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Van Sickle Paint |
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shattercane ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 23 Jul 2011 Location: Aurora, KS Points: 305 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 3:19pm |
Has anyone used Van Sickle paint on their rides? I asked some of my buddies at the local body shop about the paint and they informed me that it wasn't going to hold up to the test of time (even though it looks great once applied) I was just wondering if anyone has had a tractor that they painted with Van Sickle paint a few years back. I purchased this stuff at Orscheln's and it cost about 25 bucks a gallon. What they were telling me to use next time costs about 150 per gallon. The B sure shines now, but I don't know for how long. Thanks in advance
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29 L Case, 37 CC Case,40 A-C allcrop 40, 43 B Allis Chalmers, 50 DC Case, 54 WD-45 WF, 67 190 Gas
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R.W ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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I don't know about the brand but If you want to keep it shining and bright color I would tell you to keep it waxed to protect the paint.
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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junkman ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Nevada, MO Points: 355 |
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I give it a year or two. I spot them all the time around. dull chalky looking paint.
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Terry GA ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Oct 2009 Location: Thomson GA Points: 74 |
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Spray with 2 or 3 coats of clear. |
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I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder.
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DougG ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8246 |
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Aint worth putting on , colors off , and dont hold up
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Keep the tractor indoors. Clear will help if its good quality.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Ken in Texas ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Henderson, TX Points: 5919 |
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Alkyd Resin Enamels are fine and will last a good while if not exposed to sunlight. If you want something that will look like new for many years outside in the elements chose something other than a Alkyd Enamel.
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Kip-Utah ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Southern Utah Points: 888 |
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We've painted 2 WCs and a B with this paint. Currently these paint jobs are all between 5-7 years old & they all still look nice. We do store them indoors most of the time and did use the hardener on the final paint coats. The RC that we are doing now will get Van Sickle. I also like that you can also buy rattle cans that match. Kip
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HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!!
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Gary(OR) ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Agreed, If you use hardener and store it under a roof, the paint will hold up for many years. I did a test on an old milk can using Alkyd enamel (Red) with hardener. It sets out in the elements 24/7 , gets washed once/yr going on 6 yrs now and is just starting to fade. I bet a coat of wax might bring it back. My only real complaint is the slow drying times. I've used Napa's Crossfire reducer which helps. Straight acetone should work as well. |
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Ken in Texas ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Henderson, TX Points: 5919 |
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Using Acetone as a alkyd paint reducer to speed up drying time is not good advice. It will kill any good qualities built into the enamel. Works great as a stripper. VM&P Naptha as a reducer is acceptable for use in Alkyd Enamels.
You pay cheap for the paint and then you spend more money and time to clear coat as some suggest. Whats the point. For the money I personally believe in Single Stage MAE, Modified Acrylic Enamel for ease of application, Quick Drying, and a long lasting shine.
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David Maddux ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Points: 2533 |
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The ones I have seen turned pink after some time out in the sun. Bite the bullet and do what Kens says and go for the single stage enamel or urethane. I personally prefer the urethane. Color will hold and also the shine.
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d17brown ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: farley iowa Points: 1704 |
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if your time is worth anything, degreaseing, sandblasting,bodyfiller,sanding,priming, why would you use a cheap paint to complete a project,when it comes down to it, you get what you pay for, i use agco paint which is valspar i beleive, and use dupont hardner and reducer , paint is dry and ready to assemble within 24 hrs
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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You tend to get what you pay for in paint. I'm using urethane BC/CC.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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Butch(OH) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lucerne Ohio Points: 3835 |
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As they all have said there is no magic to a name on the can, if it is alkyd resin enamel it is what it is, cheapo paint with all the mentioned cheapo paint problems. Hardener helps to some degree. Almost everyone I know who has been down this road has now settled on the low end automotive enamel or urethanes. They are PPG Omni or Shopline and Dupont NASON. I have used both brands in Urethane and am fast becoming a fan of NASON over Omni or shopline but partialy because our local PPG outlet is run by an arregant ,,,,,, . Either will do the job but your not done spending money yet, if you go this route or try hardner in your cheapo paint your also in the barrel for breathing and skin protection equipment.
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Ken in Texas ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Henderson, TX Points: 5919 |
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Butch
Do you have the Dupont Paint codes for PO #1 and #2. Does Shopline cross over PPG codes or have a code of their own.
Last Time I needed PPG 60080 it was no longer in the PPG computers. I happened to have a old can with a printed formula on a sticker under the label. It worked .
I found that the inexpensive Alkyds made a decent orange primer under OMNI. I only used it as a color coat primer on the cast iron and steel. I actually brushed it on to get a good fill on rough castings. It don't take much OMNI to cover real good over orange primer. The sheet metal and the accessories got the full automotive treatment before assembly.
My PPG paint guy is a arrogant ***# too.
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Orange Tractors ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Butler, MO Points: 172 |
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I stripped, sanded, primed and painted an old auger cart about five years ago with Van Sickle paint. It sits outside year round and sitll looks good.
One of my friends told me years ago not to thin the cheap tractor paint when spraying. I used a cheap Walmart spraygun, and the only runs I had were when I thinned the primer. That was the first filling of the gun, after that I didn't use any thinner, except when cleaning the spraygun.
My opinion is that if you do decent prep work it wil be okay for working equipment, but if you are going to show your tractor to use better paint.
Robert
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Gary(OR) ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Acetone is a common ingredient in most reducers. Check your labels. It's prevalent in the CrossFire recducer I mentioned from Napa (Martin Senor). Common Rustoleum paints (Alkyd based) nowadays recommend acetone for thinning. They use to call for mineral spirits..... too slow evapoating.
Acetone evaporates too fast to be usefull as a paint stripper. ;)
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Gary(OR) ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Agco paint use to be alkyd based...not anymore ??
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Butch(OH) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lucerne Ohio Points: 3835 |
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Ken, I have not painted anything Allis since I began to switch over to Nason. I know the Nason codes have been posted here but I didnt bother to search it before posting. I'm not sure what is going on with the PPG code deal as that was posted here before also. The codes everyone posts here still work at my dealer, as a matter of fact I asked him about the old codes being phased out and he said he didnt know what I was talking about? If nothing else you can take a chip to any decent dealer and they scan it and dupicate the color.
For you guys that are using it back when I was playing around with alkyd paint I found that plain old laquer thinner worked as well as anything in the paint I was using at the time. It came from the old Farm&Fleet stores. Not sure if there is differances between brands when it comes to that or not? As always when playing around with the unknown it is best to first try it in small amounts on something that doesn't matter. Edited by Butch(OH) - 25 Aug 2011 at 7:07am |
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DonDittmar ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: MIllersburg, MI Points: 2505 |
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I paint with NAson and the cool thing about is the make and Integrated clear you mix with your final coat, if you like the shine |
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start |
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gary ny ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: verona ny Points: 361 |
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I really like the dell fleet essenshial . Its not cheap but is really a hard finish that does not chip or scratch easily . I just did a cletrac general with it and the shine is incredable . This is the 7th one I have used it on in the past 2 yrs and I truely think its one of the best paints I have used in the past 35 yrs. But I have over 400 in cost for it as well but i did some experimenting with it so the cost was a bit more but well worth it
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11925 |
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I only painted one Tractor which was my first B. At that time (10 years ago) I used Dupont Dulux. The job came out quite nice I thought for my very first paint job on anything, and the ole' girl still shines nice yet. Dupont doesn't offer the Dulux anymore and I believe the Nason replaced it. I have my body guy paint all my Tractor stuff now being he knows what he's doing, their shot in a booth, and there's no paints or thinners in my shop to worry about, and the results are top shelf like the paint on my cars. He uses the Nason as Butch does and he says its an easy to apply paint, goes on nice, and gives a nice finish. He also uses the clear as Don mentioned. I figure, with all the prep & resto work you put into em' as mentioned, why not put a good quality paint on to finish the job. Yeah, paint and supplies are super expensive, but the end result stays around a loooong time when you use a higher end product....
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Bull ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 28 Sep 2010 Location: Lamar, Missouri Points: 589 |
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I've used the VanSickle on 3 tractors. I think the PO #1 is about right as far as color. What I have found is that even though I use the hardener it is easier to scratch than some of the other paint. I do think that the end product is pretty close to what the original paint would have looked like. I have thinned with both naptha and xylol with equal results.
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