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Van Sickle Paint

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shattercane View Drop Down
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    Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 3:19pm
Has anyone used Van Sickle paint on their rides? I asked some of my buddies at the local body shop about the paint and they informed me that it wasn't going to hold up to the test of time (even though it looks great once applied) I was just wondering if anyone has had a tractor that they painted with Van Sickle paint a few years back. I purchased this stuff at Orscheln's and it cost about 25 bucks a gallon. What they were telling me to use next time costs about 150 per gallon. The B sure shines now, but I don't know for how long. Thanks in advance
29 L Case, 37 CC Case,40 A-C allcrop 40, 43 B Allis Chalmers, 50 DC Case, 54 WD-45 WF, 67 190 Gas
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R.W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote R.W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 3:30pm
I don't know about the brand but If you want to keep it shining and bright color I would tell you to keep it waxed to protect the paint.
In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote junkman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 3:31pm
I give it a year or two. I spot them all the time around. dull chalky looking paint.
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Terry GA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terry GA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 3:41pm

Spray with 2 or 3 coats of clear.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 7:05pm
Aint worth putting on , colors off , and dont hold up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 7:16pm
Keep the tractor indoors. Clear will help if its good quality.
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Ken in Texas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 7:30pm
Alkyd Resin Enamels are fine and will last a good while if not exposed to sunlight. If you want something that will look like new for many years outside in the elements chose something other than a Alkyd Enamel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kip-Utah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2011 at 11:59pm
We've painted 2 WCs and a B with this paint. Currently these paint jobs are all between 5-7 years old & they all still look nice. We do store them indoors most of the time and did use the hardener on the final paint coats. The RC that we are doing now will get Van Sickle. I also like that you can also buy rattle cans that match. Kip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary(OR) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 2:54am

Agreed, If you use hardener and store it under a roof, the paint will hold up for many years. I did a test on an old milk can using Alkyd enamel (Red) with hardener. It sets out in the elements 24/7 , gets washed once/yr going on 6 yrs now and is just starting to fade. I bet a coat of wax might bring it back.

My only real complaint is the slow drying times. I've used Napa's Crossfire reducer which helps. Straight acetone should work as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 5:49am
Using Acetone as a alkyd paint reducer to speed up drying time is not good advice. It will kill any good qualities built into the enamel. Works great as a stripper.  VM&P Naptha as a reducer is acceptable for use in Alkyd Enamels.
You pay cheap for the paint and then you spend more money and time to clear coat as some suggest. Whats the point. For the money I personally believe in Single Stage MAE, Modified Acrylic Enamel for ease of application, Quick Drying, and a long lasting shine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David Maddux Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 6:52am
The ones I have seen turned pink after some time out in the sun. Bite the bullet and do what Kens says and go for the single stage enamel or urethane. I personally prefer the urethane. Color will hold and also the shine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote d17brown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 7:11am
if your time is worth anything, degreaseing, sandblasting,bodyfiller,sanding,priming, why would you use a cheap paint to complete a project,when it comes down to it, you get what you pay for, i use agco paint which is valspar i beleive, and use dupont hardner and reducer , paint is dry and ready to assemble within 24 hrs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 7:17am
You tend to get what you pay for in paint.  I'm using urethane BC/CC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 8:02am
As they all have said there is no magic to a name on the can, if it is alkyd resin enamel it is what it is, cheapo paint with all the mentioned cheapo paint problems.  Hardener helps to some degree.  Almost everyone I know who has been down this road has now settled on the low end automotive enamel or urethanes. They are PPG Omni or Shopline and Dupont NASON. I have used both brands in Urethane and am fast becoming a fan of NASON over Omni or shopline but partialy because our local PPG outlet is run by an arregant ,,,,,, .  Either will do the job but your not done spending money yet,  if you go this route  or try hardner in your cheapo paint your also in the barrel for breathing and skin protection equipment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken in Texas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2011 at 7:46pm
Butch
    Do you have the Dupont Paint codes for PO #1 and #2.  Does Shopline cross over PPG codes  or have a code of their own.
    Last Time I needed PPG 60080 it was no longer in the PPG computers. I happened to have a old can with a printed formula on a sticker under the label. It worked .
    I found that the inexpensive Alkyds made a decent orange primer under OMNI. I only used it as a color coat primer on the cast iron and steel. I actually brushed it on to get a good fill on rough castings. It don't take much OMNI to cover real good over orange primer. The sheet metal and the accessories got the full automotive treatment before assembly.
    My PPG paint guy is a arrogant ***# too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Tractors Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 1:03am
Originally posted by shattercane shattercane wrote:

Has anyone used Van Sickle paint on their rides? I asked some of my buddies at the local body shop about the paint and they informed me that it wasn't going to hold up to the test of time (even though it looks great once applied) I was just wondering if anyone has had a tractor that they painted with Van Sickle paint a few years back. I purchased this stuff at Orscheln's and it cost about 25 bucks a gallon. What they were telling me to use next time costs about 150 per gallon. The B sure shines now, but I don't know for how long. Thanks in advance
  
I stripped, sanded, primed and painted an old auger cart about five years ago with Van Sickle paint. It sits outside year round and sitll looks good.
 
One of my friends told me years ago not to thin the cheap tractor paint when spraying. I used a cheap Walmart spraygun, and the only runs I had were when I thinned the primer. That was the first filling of the gun, after that I didn't use any thinner, except when cleaning the spraygun.
 
My opinion is that if you do decent prep work it wil be okay for working equipment, but if you are going to show your tractor to use better paint.
 
Robert 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary(OR) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 3:07am
Originally posted by Ken in Texas Ken in Texas wrote:

Using Acetone as a alkyd paint reducer to speed up drying time is not good advice. It will kill any good qualities built into the enamel. Works great as a stripper.  VM&P Naptha as a reducer is acceptable for use in Alkyd Enamels.
You pay cheap for the paint and then you spend more money and time to clear coat as some suggest. Whats the point. For the money I personally believe in Single Stage MAE, Modified Acrylic Enamel for ease of application, Quick Drying, and a long lasting shine.
Well, everyone has their own point of view....all I can say is don't knock unless you've tried it. Just because it's relatively cheap compared to automotive paint doesn't meen it won't provide MANY years of service for a tractor. I agree, if you plan on leaving your tractor, the majority of the time out in the weather and want it to look like new for years to come, by all means go with the most expensive BC/CC you can find.....and don't use a alkyd primer ! lol Use epoxy.
Acetone is a common ingredient in most reducers. Check your labels. It's prevalent in the CrossFire recducer I mentioned from Napa (Martin Senor). Common Rustoleum paints (Alkyd based) nowadays recommend acetone for thinning. They use to call for mineral spirits..... too slow evapoating.
 
Acetone evaporates too fast to be usefull as a paint stripper. ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary(OR) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 3:14am
Originally posted by d17brown d17brown wrote:

if your time is worth anything, degreaseing, sandblasting,bodyfiller,sanding,priming, why would you use a cheap paint to complete a project,when it comes down to it, you get what you pay for, i use agco paint which is valspar i beleive, and use dupont hardner and reducer , paint is dry and ready to assemble within 24 hrs
Agco paint use to be alkyd based...not anymore ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 7:01am
Ken, I have not painted anything Allis since I began to switch over to Nason. I know the Nason codes have been posted here but I didnt bother to search it before posting. I'm not sure what is going on with the PPG code deal as that was posted here before also. The codes everyone posts here still work at my dealer, as a matter of fact I asked him about the old codes being phased out and he said he didnt know what I was talking about?  If nothing else you can take a chip to any decent dealer and they scan it and dupicate the color. 
For you guys that are using it back when I was playing around with alkyd paint I found that plain old laquer thinner worked as well as anything in the paint I was using at the time. It came from the old Farm&Fleet stores. Not sure if there is differances between brands when it comes to that or not?  As always when playing around with the unknown it is best to first try it in small amounts on something that doesn't matter.


Edited by Butch(OH) - 25 Aug 2011 at 7:07am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonDittmar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 8:30am

I paint with NAson and the cool thing about is the make and Integrated clear you mix with your final coat, if you like the shine

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gary ny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 9:21am
I really like the dell fleet essenshial . Its not cheap but is really a hard finish that does not chip or scratch easily . I just did a cletrac general with it and the shine is incredable . This is the 7th one I have used it on in the past 2 yrs and I truely think its one of the best paints I have used in the past 35 yrs. But I have over 400 in cost for it as well but i did some experimenting with it so the cost was a bit more but well worth it 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 9:54am
I only painted one Tractor which was my first B. At that time (10 years ago) I used Dupont Dulux. The job came out quite nice I thought for my very first paint job on anything, and the ole' girl still shines nice yet. Dupont doesn't offer the Dulux anymore and I believe the Nason replaced it. I have my body guy paint all my Tractor stuff now being he knows what he's doing, their shot in a booth, and there's no paints or thinners in my shop to worry about, and the results are top shelf like the paint on my cars. He uses the Nason as Butch does and he says its an easy to apply paint, goes on nice, and gives a nice finish. He also uses the clear as Don mentioned. I figure, with all the prep & resto work you put into em' as mentioned, why not put a good quality paint on to finish the job. Yeah, paint and supplies are super expensive, but the end result stays around a loooong time when you use a higher end product....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bull Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 9:59am
I've used the VanSickle on 3 tractors. I think the PO #1 is about right as far as color. What I have found is that even though I use the hardener it is easier to scratch than some of the other paint. I do think that the end product is pretty close to what the original paint would have looked like. I have thinned with both naptha and xylol with equal results.
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