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TedN 
Silver Level
Joined: 30 Apr 2025
Location: Central WA
Points: 398
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 Topic: 7000 series tie rod ends
Posted: 22 hours 16 minutes ago at 3:39pm |
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I recently bought a tie rod assembly for my 7030 from a salvage yard. The ends on it seem to be in decent shape, and original style non-greasable. I am wondering if anyone has drilled and installed grease fittings on them, and was it successful? Or would I be better off packing them with some fresh grease, at this point they may last as long as I plan to use them.
Ted
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190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 7030, 7045, D14, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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whatscooking
Silver Level
Joined: 08 Oct 2017
Location: Indiana
Points: 297
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Posted: 6 hours 14 minutes ago at 7:41am |
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Mine were wore out. The new ones come with a grease fitting and nylon lock nut. The tube is solid, the old one was hollow. Parts ASAP wasn't too bad. If yours are reasonably tight force some lube in and go. They sell new boots. If your good at drilling and tapping go for it. Set your toe in
Edited by whatscooking - 6 hours 7 minutes ago at 7:48am
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68 D21 81 7060
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whatscooking
Silver Level
Joined: 08 Oct 2017
Location: Indiana
Points: 297
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Posted: 5 hours 51 minutes ago at 8:04am |
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What i saw when tackling this job was thankfully things wernt rusted together to bad but it still needed heat, iam going to need to get a better way of heating. So loosen everything up before you put it under. Secound, and I read the owners manual, if you have one hole showing on the axel you need one hole showing on the tube, per side I assume. Mine had one hole showing on one side and no hole showing on the other side with its sliding tube in a tube with tie rod screwed all the way in, tires ate up with tooo much toe in, one hole showing on axel. I freeded everything and set the holes and toe correctly. There is only about a inch and a quarter threads holding under that pinch nut on the left adjustable tie rod. Glad I'm not carrying saddle tanks on plowed ground, like I did long ago.
Crazy side note, I have been watching and using this tractor so I know the steering cylinder wasn't leaking. After fighting this job on the tractor, I used a jackstand to lessen the brutally of the job, sledge hammer on the rubber tire to bring the hole back inline and the like the cylinder leakd so much I ordered a kit. Been driving it around an guess what no leaks, its still getting it.
Edited by whatscooking - 5 hours 29 minutes ago at 8:26am
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68 D21 81 7060
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TedN
Silver Level
Joined: 30 Apr 2025
Location: Central WA
Points: 398
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Posted: 4 hours 4 minutes ago at 9:51am |
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When I got my 7000 I slid the tie rods all the way out then ran an inch and a half wire brush into the tube with a driver and extension, then put anti-seize on everything before it went back together. This time I have the tie rod out and in the shop so it will get cleaned a bit better. I ended up using a spade bit to clean out the tube enough to get a bar through to get the stuck side loose.
We mostly do hay so the tires stay most of the way in most of the time, usually leave them out two holes so it can straddle a windrow if needed. But I still want things to be easy to move if needed.
Ted
Edited by TedN - 3 hours 59 minutes ago at 9:56am
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190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 7030, 7045, D14, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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AC7060IL
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Aug 2012
Location: central IL
Points: 3814
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Posted: 1 hour 40 minutes ago at 12:15pm |
To help loosen stubborn AC 7000 series front end tierods, try using an acetylene torch equipped with a regular cutting tip. Set its blue flame at a moderately high temp 2-3" length. No cutting oxygen lever wanted/required, just hot blue flame. Heat outer tierod tube to slightly dull red~800F? At which point, the heat will expand tubes in hopes of breaking free any corrosive fix? To further help, squirt ATF onto the outer seam where outer tierod tube meets inner tube. Applied ATF's flash point is 300-400F, so it will Flash/steam/smoke/flame up some if tierod tube's temp is > 400F. So every minute or so, keep applying ATF. Maybe some initially, but eventually more AFT will be drawn inward & deeper into the tubes as there temps cool & match ATF's flash. At which point, place a pipe wrench onto tierod's outer knuckle end & gently rotate inner tube clockwise & counterclockwise till it moves somewhat freely. Then when rotating tierod, apply inward & outward pressure to coax tube to slide/rotate inward & outward. WD40's flash point is only 125F, so its not as good a penetration lube as ATF. Process may not resolve on first heat/ATF cycle? If so, repeat. Etc... Tenacity is your friend. Eventually it should resolve. Good success to you.
Edited by AC7060IL - 1 hour 38 minutes ago at 12:17pm
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