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D17 Diesel Ignition Switch
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Coke View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Sep 2018
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Points: 223 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D17 Diesel Ignition Switch
    Posted: 22 Sep 2026 at 10:57pm
Does anyone have a pin out for the D17 Diesel ignition key switch?

I'm wondering if it has a position for the glow in the intake etc. Right now it has no stops, it just turns til the start position and then back, there's a voltage leak, so I leave the battery disconnected.
1957 D17 Diesel w/ M&W Pistons
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Points: 93153 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 8:23am
Coke, my old service manual shows the D15 Series II having the heater solenoid wire built into the key switch.... the OLDER D15- 17 wire diagram shows the switch giving power to a HEATER BUTTON , which you then have to manually PUSH to energize the heater.... so the question is, do you have a BUTTON ?? .. and is your D17 a series 1 or 2.. or possibly the series 4 had the key like the D15 Series 2 ??
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Points: 93153 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 8:27am
this shows the earlier models with  the BUTTON..
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Points: 9205 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 8:27pm
Funny how they did things. My 220 has a push button for starter and you twist key to right to energize heater
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Points: 334 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leadoff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 11:48pm
Coke

I purchased a D17 III Diesel a few years ago and it had the ignition switch set up to have the push button energize the manifold heater, with the key in the on position. Ignition key to full clockwise would crank the engine

I changed the wiring to be the same as my factory 185, key to on position - push button will crank the engine, key full clockwise will energize the manifold heater.

Personal preference, either setup got the job done

The D17 IV and 185 operating manuals suggest keeping the manifold heater energized when cranking the engine over, in colder starting conditions to improve starting the engine
I have not used this procedure.  I plug in the block heater on either tractor and use the manifold heater for about a minute and that is enough for starting 

Perhaps if one decided to keep the manifold heater energized when cranking the engine one of these configurations would be easier to execute????????

The safety switch / push button to energize a motor is a standard industrial design feature.  I feel it is a very safe way to start the tractor 

Hope this info helps you with your D17 Diesel
1963 D17D Series III. 1965 D15 Series II. 1965 D17 Series IV. 1975 185. 1978 716H. 1979 716H. 1965 780 Harvester/1R&DC. 1957 Model 73 SC 4 Furrow Plow
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Mines from 1957, not sure what that makes it.

You can see where I removed the key switch, and the black dome is the switch I am fitting just for the starter, other than that there's just a light switch?
1957 D17 Diesel w/ M&W Pistons
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Coke View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Leadoff Leadoff wrote:


I have not used this procedure.  I plug in the block heater on either tractor and use the manifold heater for about a minute and that is enough for starting


What sort of block heater are you using? The dipstick type seemed easy to me, haven't got one yet.
1957 D17 Diesel w/ M&W Pistons
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Points: 93153 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 4 minutes ago at 8:42pm
you got a key and a button... you can do it either way... You turn the key all the way and it either CRANKS the motor or powers the HEATER.... The BUTTON does the other job.. If your using a dip slick heater with a  120v plug in, instead of a MANIFOLD HEATER, then you dont need this
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Points: 334 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leadoff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 54 minutes ago at 8:52pm
Coke

On my D17 III I use an external tank type block heater. It heats up the block in less than an hour. The low point uses the block drain valve entry port on the RHS of the block, and the high point enters the top of the engine cylinder head in a port into the internal cooling channels right next the battery.  The heater uses the thermal effect of hot fluid in the heater tank moves upwards and displaced cooler fluid in the cooling system down and eventually into the heater tank. You can feel the hot fluid in the upper connection hose right after you plug the heater to a 120 volt feed.  I have seen other connections into the engine cooling system hoses/thermostat housing that work as well.  The key is to get a high point and low point so the cooling fluids can circulate thru the heater and back into the engine/block

Once the hot fluid starts to circulate, conductive heat transfer into the block metal soon heats up the entire block, getting it nice and toasty!!

Make sure you have positive flow in your system -no check valves/thermostat valves to restrict the flow

Buy good hose that will handle the heat!!!

I have a 1000 watt Phillips and Temro heater.  Kat's also makes an excellent unit

fyi....the external tank type block heater installation is shown in the AC parts book


fyi ....my 185 has a factory block heater, very similar to a car/truck design, so not too applicable to your 1957 Series 1  
1963 D17D Series III. 1965 D15 Series II. 1965 D17 Series IV. 1975 185. 1978 716H. 1979 716H. 1965 780 Harvester/1R&DC. 1957 Model 73 SC 4 Furrow Plow
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Points: 334 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leadoff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 hours 58 minutes ago at 9:48pm
Coke

A pic of your switch front and back would be helpful

An AC switch should have the "off", "on", and momentary spring loaded turn fully clockwise position (that returns to the "on" position when released), similar to car/truck ignition switches.

You noted in your initial post that your switch had no stops or the spring return when fully clockwise.  It is important to confirm if your switch is working properly prior to proceeding with wiring options

Assuming your switch has the mechanical features described above (it turns/feels like a regular car/truck switch) you should test it for electrical functionality

Key in the "off" position, there should no conductivity from the "battery/ammeter" lug to any other lugs.  if there is ANY conductivity, your switch has an internal fault and might be the source of your parasitic load, that is killing your battery

Key turned to "on" position, there should be conductivity from the "battery/ammeter" lug on the switch to at least one lug, perhaps more.

Key turned all the way clockwise, and hold there, there should be conductivity between the "batt/ammeter" lug and one or several lugs

Keep a record of your testing for future wiring hookup

Your push button switch should be tested to ensure no conductivity between the two lugs when in the "off" (not depressed) position, and total conductivity when depressed

Next choose how you want your tractor to operate. 

Both options require the momentary circuit engage / spring return action of both the push button and the spring return on the key

One other suggestion would be to remove the side panels under the fuel tank so you can see and confirm where the wires you are connecting to the switch come from/go to.  You will be connecting to the starting motor solenoid, and the air intake manifold heater solenoid power supply wires that activate the solenoids.  Also good idea to confirm other wiring in the dash panel so it is the same as the diagrams Steve(ill) sent you above

Hope this helps

Good luck with your project
1963 D17D Series III. 1965 D15 Series II. 1965 D17 Series IV. 1975 185. 1978 716H. 1979 716H. 1965 780 Harvester/1R&DC. 1957 Model 73 SC 4 Furrow Plow
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Points: 1011 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 33 minutes ago at 6:13am
A dipstick heater may be easy to stick in however it does little compared to a coolant heater.  Install a coolant heater if you need a heater, they warm the block where the fuel has to ignite, not just oil setting in the bottom of the pan.
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